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I’ve had 2 Atlas’ now, and over the last 15 years 2 Passats and a Jetta and never an issue. It’s funny that people always seem to say to stay away from them. I normally don’t have this much trouble with decisions but I’m ultimately at, do I keep the Sierra, or is the oil thing a big enough issue to get out while I can and head to a Tundra or another brand. Not sure anyone can truly answer that, but is why I’m struggling for sure. Guess maybe the second part is what company is more likely to stand by their product? Completely agree that nothing is made to last anymore!

My local independent shop said about 9k with upgraded everything, so I guess that tracks. I’m looking at the auto start stop/dfm disabler, but may be too late to do any good. (https://a.co/d/fEQxHGM this one) It sure sounds like any truck from any company is a crap shoot? GM has lifters Toyota is replacing 200k engines so far Dodge is having hurricane issues Nissan is no longer selling Titans right? Ford is, well, Ford? is there anything that’s safe anymore? lol. I was leaning towards swapping to a 25 Tundra but I’m looking a bit, even if it is lifters, I may be better just keeping it.

45k ish? Right around there. I’ve still got a bit of warranty, and I did call GM and it cannot be extended again. I hate to think about trading it in, but lifters outside of warranty is what, like 9k to swap to non collapsible

Maybe I'm the minority but I've also never had a new car burn enough oil that it was even low enough to register. I didn't check it because I did oil changes earlier than the manual recommended and thought that the techs would tell me if I was low, as would the computer (which obviously eventually it did).

I never checked it until I was told I was burning oil, now I check it at least once a week and top it off, yes

58k which is why I hate to trade it, but I just went out to it now and remote started as I walked up and there was quite a bit of ticking, which the dealer says is the fuel pump, not lifter related.

Thanks, I was thinking the same but the mileage increase is so good. I think my driving pattern, even round trip at 26 miles a day, would lead to emissions issues due to not enough push on the engine to burn/get through a regen? My buddy at the dealership recommended this stuff, but someone told me that if I add it at 1qt low the dealer could tell and potentially void the rest of my extended warranty? https://a.co/d/glye7FP I’d prefer NOT to buy a new truck, but am unsure if I’m at that point, or if this ultimately is just normal for a 5.3 from 2020. I would keep it if all I needed to do was keep an eye on the oil, just worried that since it’s burning enough for the tech to comment, something has changed for the worse, and they can’t find it. I brought it in last week. I can price out extending the warranty beyond the current extension and see what it looks like too I guess? Thanks everyone for the thoughts and insight so far, keep it coming!

Already spent 1k on on the extended to get me to 72k and 6 years, so would hate to put even more into that. Could put that 2k into a downpayment on a new one too I guess...

I normally do when the truck tells me, but the last 4 I have done at 4k or less. Always at the dealership. To the best of my knowledge it's started in the last 15k, as they have never indicated it was low when I took it in before, and up until 4 changes ish ago, I got the low oil light, meaning it's at minimum 2 qts low or more. No smoke at start up, and no leaking. With all of that said, I, as well as my wife, are a bit wary of another GM now, but also know all vehicles have issues. Go 25 Tundra? Go 25 3.0 Diesel, or another 5.3 and pray?

So far I've been generally happy with my 2020 5.3 Elevation, but as of late it's been burning oil. 3 oil changes ago, 2 qts low, perform GMs consumption test, no loss, next oil change 2 qts low. I'm still under extended warranty for 14k ish miles, but am wary of trusting it, despite reading how common it is. I would like to keep the truck forever, and if adding a qt of oil will let me keep it theoretically another 5 years, I would, but am not sure that's reality here? With all of that said, the tech kept referencing how ~1/3 of my engine hours are idle hours. I live where there's a ton of traffic and it's pretty cold, so...I either idle in traffic or idle picking my kids up/dropping them off at school, etc. 58k miles on it, mostly city. Is the idling thing BS, or accurate as it seems from reading? Can I save/protect it by 3-4k oil changes and keeping it topped off, or should I trade it in now? For clarity, looking at a 3.0, but I don't tow or anything so it would be for MPG only, OR, a 2025 SR5 Tundra. At any other point in my life I'd be like, Hell Yeah, new truck, but I'm at that stage where ever penny goes to my kids, so if I can safely avoid a new one and get another 50-75k miles out of this one, I'd like to. Would love some thoughts, if anyone has any to share! Thanks!

My 2020 5.3 Elevation does the same, glad I'm not alone.

Hey all! Just hit 41k on my Sierra and still love it (other than the stereo, lol), but have lately noticed this weird clicking that seems to happen behind the LCD screen when driving, but also under the steering wheel/in the dash even after I shut it off. I've never experienced it before, but the vehicle seems to operate normally, AC is cold and blowing, etc. Any ideas, or has anyone else had this? Thank you!

Yup, got one today! It does not have the GMC logo on it, so thought I could use new front and old back, but it didn't line up quite perfectly unfortunately, but, it does work perfectly.

I did, sorry, I should have said that. I actually ordered those immediately, but when I put it on, it pulled the emergency button completely off, and now I can't get it to stay in place when I put it on. A dab of glue might work, but without that flap/button on there, it doesn't register I'm pressing it with the cover on.

I should have clarified, I apologize. My fob actually works still, all the rubber/the panic button is coming or has come off. I really only need the shell, but...finding just the shell is hard.

Hey all! I swear someone linked a much more resilient cover/FOB than the OEM one but no matter how I search I can't find it. Anyone else had this happen, if so, what did you go with? Thanks!

Hey all! I've never encountered this before in a vehicle, is it potentially the fuel pump, or something related to the AC potentially? Did a search and couldn't see anyone else with issues like it. Thanks!

Hey all! I've honestly been happy with my elevation, but found myself always wanting a Tundra. They seem currently even more overpriced than normal in the current environment but I found a good deal on an SR. They have SO many trim levels, but it sure seems like an SR would be a big step down (despite what my buddy says, who's a Tundra 4 lifer, and drives a 19 TRD PRO). Anyone contemplated a trade when they finally got refreshed?

So ceramic over whatever the rears came with (guess I need to look at my window sticker?) would provide good heat reduction, keep the interior nicer, etc? Ultimately, it’s worth the cost to put something in addition to what the truck ships with all around?

So it would seem that throwing an extra layer of ceramic tint on my back 3 windows (crew cab) will be little to no benefit. If I want the windows to match, throw some tint on the front, but ultimately it’ll all “work” or provide the same benefit? Am I Reading that right?

Not sure how I can’t find a definitive on this, but, I am trying to decide if I put a clear UV tint behind the factory tint, or if it already provides the same benefit as tint and should just do the fronts to match the back and be done. When I was young, and no kids, I just wanted it to look cool, now I’d love the UV/heat benefit all around, but was curious on how the factory “tint” holds up.

I feel like the Dr. Colorchip did its job and doesn’t look half bad, what do y’all think? Thanks for all the insight thus far!

Well, this is how it looks after one application of Dr Colorchip. They say it can take several to really do its thing. It definitely “muted” the damage, and may look better after round 2 or 3. If it does, I’m just not sure I can spend 1k+ out of pocket to fix it…although it will certainly bother me everyday.

When I do this, like today when I dropped my truck off for the belt squealing, they always tell me that the video is “nice” but it has to do it when it’s there for them to do anything at all…

You and me both! I’d jump on it if new trucks weren’t so much more than I paid as well.