Pierce Vaughn

Let me know how that works with transmission fluid flush with synthetic. I had my transmission fluid replaced with the regular type about 15k miles ago and it had had the torque converter shudder randomly for about 28k miles now... I was almost just waiting to replace the transmission/torque converter, but I may try putting synthetic in it and see if that helps at all. As far as your warranty, unless it’s under the mileage limit, I doubt you will get it paid for by that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So... good news! I found the issue! I’ll attach some pics if they’ll let me. The bottom wire trunk that goes into the pcm was rubbing on the fender liner and broke through the trunk and the jacket of 3 wires and they were all corroded. The sensor wire for the CKP had just hit the point where resistance won and the wire no longer sent any CKp signal. My oil pressure sensor has been working but I have been getting a code for and open circuit. So all fixed! Only codes I have left are EVAP codes now :/ maybe I’ll look up another thread on that, but now the truck runs! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I was doing some testing on the CKP sensor last night. It’s a 3 wire Hall effect, and I have a 5 volt wire (presumably reference/power), then ground, then sensor wire. I want to verify the wire colors, and see what other sensors use the same power circuit, if anyone has a wiring schematic for this truck (2014 Chevy Silverado, 5.3) From testing with the multimeter, the 5 volt wire is the light or lime green wire, middle wire is ground(hard to tell color) and sensor wire is purple with dark blue stripe. Do I have this right ? This CKP is hard to get to and test because it is above the starter... so I was going to do a load voltage test on the reference but haven’t been able to yet. I did turn the key on and plug the sensor in (with starter out) and still had 5 volts on the line green wire with the old one, the new one dropped 2/10ths of a volt when I plug it in. I had a 1 1/4 in impact socket that I would touch to the front of the sensor (magnet) and watched the voltage on a multimeter via the back of the plug, and tried it on both wires with both sensors and had no voltage change. The purple w/ blue line wire has about a little less than a volt, I think like 0.50v-0.70v I was going to do some further testing in the next couple days, or as soon as I get the chance. Any thoughts so far on this? I have a handful of more things to check but wanted to see what everyone thought so far. Thanks- Pierce Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the reply, I was thinking I might need to do that, but I’m still a little confused about why it did the same think with the other CKP-that supposedly was working fine before this problem. I’ve looked up some wiring test and I’m going to try to eliminate the PCM by verifying 5volts one of the wires with the sensor unplugged. The worst thing right now is I can’t get any good wiring diagrams to verify the wiring paths and what reference circuit there is.. I’ll have to find a time when it’s not 10 degrees outside to check some things again! Hopefully later this week. I’ll definitely get it relearned once I get it working, but it’s going in between not even starting and running bad with a signal rn, Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello all, hoping to get some help with a 2014 1500 silverado, has a 5.3 engine. I want to make this short and simple so people will have time to read it and reply- but also want to include everything to give enough info to be helpful, so sorry that this is a little long. The other day my truck started to run really rough and would randomly die if I came to a stop or if it was idling and my tachometer stopped working. It seemed to sporadically run sometimes worse and sometimes just rough on the way home from work, and after I parked it when I got home a tried to start it later and it would just turn over and not start at all. I had a check engine light and had a code for the crankshaft position sensor, so I finally replaced it today and it started up and I think it ran fine for a minute and then I noticed my tachometer wasn’t working again and the code came back... P0335. So, I disconnected my battery and connected it back and got it to start up and the tach worked and the P0335 wasn’t showing, but the truck ran really bad- rpm dipping and would die immediately or after a short time. After restarting, the tach stopped working again but it would idle fine this time. I got it to go back and forth between those two conditions a few times somehow, and ending up with it not wanting to start again. These are all the CEL codes right now including the new CKP one, and some I think I’ve had for a while!: P0443 (evap system purge control valve circuit) P0458 (evap system purge control valve circuit low) P06DA (Engine oil pressure control circuit open) P0335 (Crankshaft position sensor A circuit malfunction) P0443 (Evaporative emission system purge control valve circuit ) P0458 (Evaporative emission system purge control valve circuit low) I’m kinda stumped on this one. I known some new ckp sensors need to be relearned, but after replacing it it didn’t really change anything so I’m thinking that wasn’t the problem? Also, I posted all the codes because I’m wondering if there is any wiring issue that could affect all of those. I think the evap codes I’ve had for a while and it’s hard to fill the gas tank without it clicking so that’s always been like that. Any help greatly appreciated, and if there is anywhere I can get a wiring diagram of the engine sensor please let me know- the Chiltons manual was no use. Thanks! -Pierce Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s terrible to be happening on such newer trucks. I drive a 2013 Silverado for work and I’ve never felt a problem like mine is having. So I definitely wouldn’t call it normal. I’m still trying to figure out what is going on. I may try some fluid additive and see if that changes anything so I can at least narrow it down. With yours still being under warranty, you should definitely get the dealer to replace anything to get it fixed. Even if it means having them replace the transmission. I really hate to but if I can’t get it figured out I’m going to plan on replacing mine in the next year or so. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay cool. Well, maybe I’ll drive it like it is for a little bit unless it gives me a lot of trouble and then just have the transmission done later. what is the other thing you are talking about with the shifting part(s)? I wonder if a fluid change would smooth things out for now? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmm. Well I’m hitting 150k on mine. I’d replace the torque converter,but like you say ideally I’d do the trans and torque converter if I’m just going to go that route. And I just had my engine done last month *sighhh* About how much did you have your transmission done for on your truck if you don’t mind? And if it’s a similar year as mine is. Maybe after all this I’ll have a pretty stout truck for a while. Thanks for the help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the reply. If it was the torque converter, I’m wondering if I should be able to just replace it and fluids and resolve it. I was thinking about having someone look at tuning it but I wouldn’t want that to “fix it” if I actually did have a internal problem with it. Anyone know if I would have any codes readable from the transmission ? I’m not sure if that’s possible with a regular obd2 reader. When I had my engine done my transmission fluid was a little bit low. Thanks. -Pierce Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also, forgot to mention: my rpms will just go up and down ~100 rpms usually when it’s acting up. I can put a video of that if that would help diagnose. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Howdy all, I’ve just had my 5.3 engine rebuilt on my 2014 Silverado due to lifter problems. This truck has the 6 speed transmission. Trucks’ problem: Very often, when I’m accelerating or cruising at lower-mid rpms I get a weird hesitation/uneven lack of power that doesn’t go away unless I give it more pedal, or let off. It usually happens when I’m on a straight way, maintaining speed, and want to pick up just a little bit of speed. Or If I’m cruising up a hill it acts up until it down shifts. What it does could be described as a “miss” or miss fire, but it feels more like the truck just isn’t shifting soon enough. Kinda like riding an atv/dirt bike riding in too high a gear putting more load on the engine. Also, tow/haul mode makes it pretty much unnoticeable, but I can kinda tell it’s still there. I’m not really sure if it did this before my rebuild. I didn’t have the truck long before then. - Could this be something with the computer ?it was sent off to have the v4 mode complete programmed out of it, but, I’m wondering if the transmission still has parameters for v4 mode that kick in.. just a thought. I’m really not sure on this one. Anyone experiencing this sort of thing? I could be completely wrong about it not shifting soon enough but that’s just the feeling. Thanks for any input/advice on what this is and fixing it. -Pierce Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk