MAK2013

I'd also encourage you to look at my comment on page 3, from July of last year. That grey wire on the BCM doesn't work as intended

In general, I hate on RC as a company, but their levels are fine. At the end of the day the level is just a solid chunk of metal. Pretty hard to mess that up. But their bigger lifts are godawful quality. We stopped selling/installing RC lifts in my shops because so many people end up with major problems and blame it on the shop. With lifts, cheaper is not better. You’ll be fine with their level though

I mean even if the speedometer can somehow calibrate itself (which I find incredibly unlikely) you still need a calibrator to get your shift points correct and get your ESC set to a larger tire

The new trucks do not have the ability to synchronize their speedometer if you switch tire sizes. It has no idea what size tire you put on there. Both Rough Country and Hypertech sell speedometer calibrators. I’ve had better results with Hypertech

As far as their leveling kits go, I haven’t heard of too many problems. There’s only so much that can go wrong with a solid piece of metal. But if you’re gonna do it, might as well spend the extra money for a SST kit so you get the full lift and level experience. I absolutely love ReadyLift. Some of the best quality suspension parts for super cheap compared to some of the premium brands like BDS or Icon

Yes, the SST 2.0 (Trail Boss/AT4 model) lifts the front 2” (to combine with the stock 2” lift, for 4” total in front) and the rear 3”. So it lifts and levels at the same time. It’s a really good kit, we sell a ton of them in my shops

He got the Readylift UCAs with the SST kit. I’ve heard of people using RC arms, but I strongly recommend against them. I’ve seen some scary stuff with people using Rough Country in my shops. We actually refuse to sell/install their lift kits. Their other parts are ok but their suspension equipment tends to be subpar for very little savings

The RL arms have plenty of clearance at full droop on my Silverado. Granted, I only have 33x11 tires on my truck currently. I’m sure I’m going to have to find a fix once I put the Fox 2.0 coil overs and 35x11.50 tires on the truck

Hmm, that’s actually a decent question. I have not heard my techs say anything about clearance issues at full droop but I’ll ask them when I’m up there tomorrow. I’d actually be more concerned about the clearance with the springs fully compressed, I’m sure it is going to rub your fender wells if you really stuff that tire up there. Worst case we can always check the droop whenever you come back to get everything torqued ?

The height of the tire isn’t the problem really. It’s that extra inch of width from a 35x11.50 to a 35x12.50. It’s going to hit your UCA and rub elsewhere without a lift kit

Not that I’m aware of. You’ll need at least a 2” kit on the TB, and likely will still have to do considerable trimming to make a 12.5” w fit with the stock rims. If you only do a level, the tire’s going to hit the UCA. You might be able to stuff a 35x11 on a 2” level but I’d still be concerned with UCA clearance on the stock arms

Yes I have. The post of the AT4 above was done at my shop. He’s running the stock 18” wheels. We recommend a 285/75R18 as the max size but you can get a little bit bigger than that if you want to trim the fender wells and pin the integrated mud flaps back. This also depends on the UCAs you use. We used readylift for most of them, if you get a UCA that is substantially larger than stock, it’s going to hit your tires. The pinch point on these builds is the UCAs. They get pretty damn close to the tire, everything else clears really well Edit: UCA brands like Zone, BDS, Fabtech are not going to clear the tire unless you go with a more substantial lift. If you want to clear 35s on a 2” lift on the TB/AT4, the only UCA I’ve had good results with is Readylift. I’ve heard the same about Rough Country but I don’t sell their crap parts in my shops lol

This is about the 4th SST kit I’ve done on Silverado/Sierras. The Sierras don’t have as much clearance as the Silverados due to the fender Wells but a 35” will fit without spacers if the lift is done correctly

I tried converting my Silverado LTZ to wireless CarPlay. It’s not going to work well. I tried multiple different modules, they’re all laggy and end up with features missing (such as steering wheel controls). At the end of the day, the CarPlay software on the head unit is not designed for wireless CarPlay, so unless Chevy/GMC pushes an update that can support it, it’s never going to work correctly

I haven’t messed with mine since the original install, but I really want mine to come on during door open/close and while driving. That setup sounds like exactly what I want. Do you have pictures of where on the BCM it connects? I’m sure I can find the purple headlight wire but I’ve had a hell of a time finding the dome wire, especially since online diagrams are sparse. It would be awesome if you did a short writeup based on the wires you tapped. Thank you for the update, you’ve re-piqued my interest!

PPF is variable. If you’re comfortable doing vinyl wraps or tint, then you can likely do PPF at home. Just depends how much you’re willing to do and how long you have. PPF is just time consuming, not really difficult

100%, ceramic coatings should be done by a professional or someone at least comfortable with it. We’ve had dozens of people end up at our shops after they tried the DIY kit and ended up with uneven paint. Then we have to charge them extra to undo their screwup...

I apply Ceramic Pro through my business. $1200 doesn't seem absurd if it's a quality brand of PPF (3M or Ceramic Pro). We do the ceramic coatings for $1500-5000 depending on paint correction and type of vehicle. It really just depends on what products they're offering. It's definitely worth it though. Mine has 4 layers of Ceramic Coating. I have a coworker with the same color and you can clearly tell the difference.

Binding both open will just make it drone, just as if you cut both of them off. Personally I’d just cut one off and leave the other alone

I’m telling you it does not tune the 2019 new body style 6.2L. So is Diablo Sport as of last Tuesday. Just because Summit racing says it will work does not mean that’s correct. Diablo Sport initially announced that it would work on the new bodies back in 2018, but it didn’t, so Diablo Sport removed it from their own site under the 2019 Silverados other than the LD. Many 3rd party websites never updated their listings. Go ahead and spend your money on it if you want, but don’t get upset when it doesn’t work. The only tuner currently available is from HP Tuners and you have to replace the entire ECM, costs about $3000 minimum.

Go check the DiabloSport website... I confirmed with customer service last week that the tuners only works correctly on the 2019 LD. Yes, it can disable AFM on the new 5.3 technically, but it cannot disable DFM on the 6.2. AFM and DFM work entirely differently

The Diablo sport (and all other tuners currently on the market) does not work on the new body style Silverados. It only works on the LD/Legacy edition.

That’s not a flapper in that picture, it’s the resonator for the 5.3L V8. Moreover, if you’re going with this muffler (magnaflow 11229) on the 6.2L V8, do NOT cut off both flappers unless you want to drive yourself batshit having a helicopter flying under your truck at any speed over 35...

I'm lost. I have the Opt7 kit fully wired in. Connected the accessory wire to the grey wire (dome light) on the driver side. I tried every spade connector on the passenger fuse box. There's one that's RAP and a few others that are always hot. I want the lights to come on when I open the door or the dome light comes on. With the RAP power, it only comes on if the vehicle is on. With the always hot connections, the lights stay on constantly. There has to be a spot in the fuse box that's door/dome activated... I love the lights but I need a way for them to come on with the dome/door without running all of the power off of that 24 gauge grey wire on the plug...

Awesome, thank you sir! That's what I thought, just wanted to confirm with someone who's already done it. Another question, where the hell did you mount your LED strips under the dash? I just realized there's not a nice flat place to mount them like there was on my 2012 Tahoe. Just a very crooked metal bar. Interested to see where you put them