MAK2013

I'd also encourage you to look at my comment on page 3, from July of last year. That grey wire on the BCM doesn't work as intended

In general, I hate on RC as a company, but their levels are fine. At the end of the day the level is just a solid chunk of metal. Pretty hard to mess that up. But their bigger lifts are godawful quality. We stopped selling/installing RC lifts in my shops because so many people end up with major problems and blame it on the shop. With lifts, cheaper is not better. You’ll be fine with their level though

I mean even if the speedometer can somehow calibrate itself (which I find incredibly unlikely) you still need a calibrator to get your shift points correct and get your ESC set to a larger tire

The new trucks do not have the ability to synchronize their speedometer if you switch tire sizes. It has no idea what size tire you put on there. Both Rough Country and Hypertech sell speedometer calibrators. I’ve had better results with Hypertech

As far as their leveling kits go, I haven’t heard of too many problems. There’s only so much that can go wrong with a solid piece of metal. But if you’re gonna do it, might as well spend the extra money for a SST kit so you get the full lift and level experience. I absolutely love ReadyLift. Some of the best quality suspension parts for super cheap compared to some of the premium brands like BDS or Icon

Yes, the SST 2.0 (Trail Boss/AT4 model) lifts the front 2” (to combine with the stock 2” lift, for 4” total in front) and the rear 3”. So it lifts and levels at the same time. It’s a really good kit, we sell a ton of them in my shops

He got the Readylift UCAs with the SST kit. I’ve heard of people using RC arms, but I strongly recommend against them. I’ve seen some scary stuff with people using Rough Country in my shops. We actually refuse to sell/install their lift kits. Their other parts are ok but their suspension equipment tends to be subpar for very little savings

The RL arms have plenty of clearance at full droop on my Silverado. Granted, I only have 33x11 tires on my truck currently. I’m sure I’m going to have to find a fix once I put the Fox 2.0 coil overs and 35x11.50 tires on the truck

Hmm, that’s actually a decent question. I have not heard my techs say anything about clearance issues at full droop but I’ll ask them when I’m up there tomorrow. I’d actually be more concerned about the clearance with the springs fully compressed, I’m sure it is going to rub your fender wells if you really stuff that tire up there. Worst case we can always check the droop whenever you come back to get everything torqued ?

The height of the tire isn’t the problem really. It’s that extra inch of width from a 35x11.50 to a 35x12.50. It’s going to hit your UCA and rub elsewhere without a lift kit

Not that I’m aware of. You’ll need at least a 2” kit on the TB, and likely will still have to do considerable trimming to make a 12.5” w fit with the stock rims. If you only do a level, the tire’s going to hit the UCA. You might be able to stuff a 35x11 on a 2” level but I’d still be concerned with UCA clearance on the stock arms

Yes I have. The post of the AT4 above was done at my shop. He’s running the stock 18” wheels. We recommend a 285/75R18 as the max size but you can get a little bit bigger than that if you want to trim the fender wells and pin the integrated mud flaps back. This also depends on the UCAs you use. We used readylift for most of them, if you get a UCA that is substantially larger than stock, it’s going to hit your tires. The pinch point on these builds is the UCAs. They get pretty damn close to the tire, everything else clears really well Edit: UCA brands like Zone, BDS, Fabtech are not going to clear the tire unless you go with a more substantial lift. If you want to clear 35s on a 2” lift on the TB/AT4, the only UCA I’ve had good results with is Readylift. I’ve heard the same about Rough Country but I don’t sell their crap parts in my shops lol

This is about the 4th SST kit I’ve done on Silverado/Sierras. The Sierras don’t have as much clearance as the Silverados due to the fender Wells but a 35” will fit without spacers if the lift is done correctly

I tried converting my Silverado LTZ to wireless CarPlay. It’s not going to work well. I tried multiple different modules, they’re all laggy and end up with features missing (such as steering wheel controls). At the end of the day, the CarPlay software on the head unit is not designed for wireless CarPlay, so unless Chevy/GMC pushes an update that can support it, it’s never going to work correctly

I haven’t messed with mine since the original install, but I really want mine to come on during door open/close and while driving. That setup sounds like exactly what I want. Do you have pictures of where on the BCM it connects? I’m sure I can find the purple headlight wire but I’ve had a hell of a time finding the dome wire, especially since online diagrams are sparse. It would be awesome if you did a short writeup based on the wires you tapped. Thank you for the update, you’ve re-piqued my interest!

Not all too much. We do this at my shop pretty frequently. Most trucks it’s just fender, splash guard, and liner trimming. Some trucks require having the crash bar cut (Namely F150s) but I haven’t experienced that at all with Silverado 1500s

ReadyLift Kits in general are not recommended for any high level of flex. Yes they can be used “offroad” at the deer lease or a dirt road but if you’re planning to go wheeling with your vehicle I strongly recommend a full suspension setup such as BDS, FabTech, Icon, etc

Yeah I’ve got a location at 1960/Jones Rd and 290/Tidwell

Ah that makes some sense. Still pretty dang expensive

Whoops. Mistyped that. Meant to say 275/65R20 not 55

I typically charge about $800-850 plus tax installed but the alignment would be up to the customer

$220/hr for shop labor?! Holy ******. I own 14 shops in 4 different states (one being CA) and our highest labor rate is $150/hr. Goes all the way down to $100/hr here in Houston. That’s absolutely absurd. Where are you located?

I figured I wasn’t fitting a 35. Was just saying i want to get as close to that as possible. My 2012 Tahoe had 285/60R22 on them at stock height (non-Z71). I’m thinking either 275/55R20 or 285/60R20 depending on how much trimming i want to do

Sorry for the delay. Been hectic with this virus. Yeah I have the motofab 1.5. It’s currently pouring here but I’ll grab a pic once it stops

I spoke with my distributor (I own some auto shops so have Meyer and Keystone accounts). For some unknown reason they’re all built in Fox’s warehouse but they won’t release the shipments until the first week of August. Not sure how that makes any sense but looks like I’ll be one of the first to actually get them. Fricken Fox and Bilstein can’t get these made quick enough...