Tomato

Maybe it's this...Part of me wants to laugh, but I guess it is possible. I will have to pay attention to my fuel gauge next time it happens. MC-10184142-9999.pdf (nhtsa.gov)

My 2015 and now my 2020 had/has an occasional clunk when coming to stop. Never had any issues with the drivetrain, so I did not worry about it. Clunk is identical between the 2 trucks, so I am thinking it has something to do with Allison or torque converter.

I think you can do this while in "maintenance mode" with the truck NOT running. Hold the start button for about 10-seconds (no brake), and it turns everything on as if it is running.

Definitely don't want an airhorn either. Ours are wired in series with different connectors on each. Looking for plug n play, as I'd rather not have to cut and splice.

I've posted this before, but...Has anyone found a good, plug-n-play replacement horn(s)? Thanks!

Nice work, man. My 40' 5th wheel, tandem axle, drops the back left tire out intermittently. Good news is that it does go in and out, so I get a reading some of the time. More importantly, it does not error out the entire TTPMS system when it drops off. I think the over the air update I got a few weeks ago corrected that.

Sounds like it could be a loose 7-pin connection. I know the bumper receptacles like to have the trailer plug jammed in pretty tight...Pushed on harder than you would think necessary or good.

Interesting perspective. There are definitely a lot of great, professional mechanics out there, but issues like mine happen way to often. I think it is a lack of training/knowledge, lack of attention to detail, lack of pride and, finally, a rushed environment to get things done...

So difficult to find a good service department these days. I've had a few issues with them in the past, but this one was ridiculous. Had the truck in for the brake pad TSB. First issue I caught right away - mechanic did not fully seat the front wear sensor - forum member here helped me figure that out. Discovered 2 new issues today resulting from that same visit. I am heading out with the fifth wheel tomorrow, and I needed to add a few pounds of air to the tires. Guess what? DumbA$$ mechanic clocked the rear wheels, so I could not access the inner valve stem. I discovered the second issue when I pulled the wheels to correct. DRW rears take a bit of patience and care to get on correctly. This guy had 0. He must have used a damn impact to flush them up and pinched both outer aluminum wheels as they went on crooked. Passenger side was worst - pictures attached. You can see the strip of aluminum in my hand that came out with the wheel. Gave my advisor an earful, and they will replace my rims if I ask them to. Don' think this will cause any future issues, but I may tell them to put the new rims in the queue for when I need tires. Unreal.

Agree. I will have them check next time I am in for service. One other note is that I was in and out of the truck grabbing stuff probably 6-10 times while it sat. As you know, the electronics "fire up" for a short time each time you open the driver's door.

I have been having intermittent CEL issues, and I am now pretty sure it is caused by low voltage at start up. Truck sat for 6-days this time, and the CEL came on at start up - like several times in the past. I shut it down right away and checked the batteries - 11.9 volts. iDash shows only P0700, but I usually get U0100 as well. I think this thing has a significant vampire draw when sitting. I am going to put it on a trickle charge going forward. Question for those that do this with dual batteries. Are you just connecting to one or the other or using a double charger of some sort? Thanks.

I have a feeling these trucks are going to eat batteries, as they seem to have a lot of offline current draw. I let my Duramax sit for 6-days, and checked battery voltage before I started it. They were both at 12.28. I didn't think it was going to start, but it did. I am having intermittent CEL issues and thought it might have been caused by low voltage. CEL did not come on this time.

Added a chain for more tie down points...

I emailed Banks a while back, and they were no help. I have not had a CEL in several weeks now, and I am beginning to wonder if it has something to do with battery voltage and may or may not be iDash related. I seem to get the CEL after I let the truck sit for 3+ days. Also, every so often, my iDash does not power up on start, and I have to press one of its buttons to get it going. I will have to see if I get the CEL shortly after one of these episodes. Just theories and observations, but I do think it is all related.

Have you tried to gently push it back into place? It might just need a reset. You might also want to try pulling the fuse for the mirrors (or battery disconnect) when they are folded in. Again, to see if they reset.