wondering if anyone has any additional resolution for a 2019+ truck? I keep geeting the trailer brake warning and the dealer said they cannot duplicate the problem. The trailer is less than one year old, and all the brakes/wiring test fine.
having the same issue with my 2020 Silverado 1500 (just turned 3000 miles, problem has happened several times). When i hookup, everything is working fine (lights/brakes)... then a few minutes down the road, i start getting warnings about trailer connection and then the braking system deactivates. Trailer has been tested at the shop, and connected to two other two vehicles with no issues. its at the dealership right now, waiting to see if they can find anything.
I do have those controls from the steering wheel (audio control, rear paddles) if anyone wants them.... just pay the shipping for usps priority bubble envelope.
i can text pictures if someone wants them
Most likely you could.... but the audio control still isn't going to work without the head unit replacement, and programming to the ECU/DIC.
these new trucks are much more specific than the older models with the components. Unfortunately you really can't just swap the parts in/out because the electronics are all controlled and monitored by the computers..... ?
I have swapped the steering wheel on my 2020 custom for a wheel from a 2020 LTZ. The wiring does not exist in the custom or WT trim trucks.
to make the radio/phone controls work here are the things that are needed: 1. A replacement steering wheel with controls, 2. Replaced wire harness in the column, and to the DIC and Headunit. (Possibly the clockspring, but I cannot conform that), 3. A replacement gauge cluster with the upgraded DIC, 4. A replacement head unit that allows for the steering wheel control input.
on top of that.... most likely going to need some programming for the ECU/DIC ..... at this time (2/19/2020) I don't believe anyone has actually completed a full swap of all these components to make it all work.
I really just wanted the leather wrapped wheel and used all the "guts/wiring" from my existing wheel to put into the leather wrapped shell.
I know this is a little bit of an older post.... but I used the open "blade" next to the large 50a fuse. This is working perfectly for me to power a dash cam and gps.
Replaced my plastic/rubber steering wheel today with a leather one off of an LT trim level truck. As noted in a few other posts, the controls from the replacement wheel will not work to control radio and DIC.... but I was really just wanting the leather. Since the replacement wheel came from a wrecked truck (blown airbag) I decided to move all the wiring from inside my steering wheel to the replacement one.
Removing the airbag requires removing a 10mm bolt from each side of the steering wheel (behind plastic covers)..... but much easier than older models. The bolt holding the steering wheel on is a T50 torx.... and to remove it, you need to apply some heat (hair dryer worked good) because it has locktite on the bolt.