MesaRat

Update: Service manager drove my truck and said mirror shaking is horrible. After a little back and forth with GM it was approved for replacement and is on order. Manager said besides the mounting bolts there is nothing to tighten or adjust. And apparently the mirror is a reasonable $1300.

my driver's side mirror is shaking and rattling so bad i think the mirror is going to come off when i hit minor-medium bumps and shakes and rattles moderately on small bumps/imperfections, mostly on maintained dirt road but sometimes on pavement. i talked with the service manager and showed him a video, and he said it's normal. he has a 2022 and it does it. they did say they will look at it but i don't expect anything. Passenger side mirror is solid. My 2020 would do it on rare occasion and only with a significant bump. GM reached out to me a while ago, as result of a survey I responded to, and asked me to send a copy of the video to them. haven't heard back.

My truck, doing what a truck should be doing.

After some back and forth with the dealer and calling GM, it appears this recall is very limited (about 900 VINs according to GM). Dealer did confirm that my ECM software is current version. I started using Stanadyne a few tanks back and my regen's seem much shorter now and getting low 16's. I did let GM know there is no reason that the same driver and habits in almost identical trucks should get 15-20% less fuel efficiency.

Has anyone been able to get the dealer to confirm recall #N232415860 for their truck or had the recall performed? The local dealer says mine isn't in the system yet and the system is having trouble.

Thanks. I'm curious to see if my truck is one of the ones identified. I do get on occasion a rough idle but thought is was just characteristic of the engine.

Thanks. Too tired to look today but will in the morning. I thought the leads would be in the engine compartment. I guess I have to wire through the firewall to get to the front bumper and it looks like the existing pass through is already used for the up fitter wiring.

Does anyone know how to connect accessories to the up fitter circuit(s)/switch? This is for a 2024 Chevy 2500. I cannot find anything under the hood that would allow me to wire in accessories. The dealer installed the switches and I've gone back 3 times but the tech who did it is always gone and everyone else is befuddled. I paid over $400 for the install. Looking through this thread and UI-Bullentin-193-wip-1 it shows a harness with an Upfitter output circuit label in the pic on page 5. Is this the connection? If so I can't find it and assume I am missing a part. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks. The change to the regen frequency might explain it.

I picked up a 2024 Silverado 2500 LTZ Duramax about 3 weeks ago and my fuel economy is averaging under 15mpg over the first 3 tanks, no towing. I drive 85% rural highways (55 mph), 15% city, don't hot rod the truck, and have owned 5 HD diesel trucks. I have 1500 miles on the truck. My trade in was a 2020 Silverado 3500 Duramax and I rarely got below 18mpg (sometimes close to 20). My other HDs were Fords and they never fell below 17 mpg. I asked the dealer if there are any bulletins (regen or fuel mileage) and they said no. It does seem to be regen'ng more than the other truck but I am not certain. Any insight or help is appreciated. Thanks

Update: After a long wait and the dealership going back and forth with GM, they have decided to completely replace the bed. It should arrive in 3 weeks. I suggest anyone considering a ladder rack or other accessory that attaches to the bed rails to be very careful and try not to drive the truck on rough or bumpy roads. I looked at one of our subcontractor's 90s Toyota and the bed metal is significantly thicker - makes me jealous.

front view

i think this is what you are asking for. dealer said they can pull it out when they do the other work.

I haven't spoken with Thule. I am still waiting, according to the dealer, for GM to decide how to proceed with the repair. Apparently, another truck in the area has had it happen too, according to the dealer. I've never had the rack with more than 100 lbs on a dirt road and maybe a max of 150 lbs on pavement, all short distances. Body shop and I believe it is the cantilevered portion flexing the rack down to the bed rails. I don't think I would have had this problem if I was always on pavement. Thule only recommends lowering the carrying weight if you go off road and supposedly it holds 500 to 1000 lbs depending on what you read. however, i just keep having bad luck with this truck as a load i was carrying damaged the front of the bed. how it happened is almost unbelievable. essentially as i was braking normal and coming down a hill when the truck violently downshifted causing light lock up of the rear and sending stuff flying / breaking my tie down straps. after that it was back to normal. i take ultimate responsibility for not securing the load properly but strange. no CEL, no abnormal stuff afterwards, just carrying about 3000lbs in the bed.

it pulled to the right no matter what. they even intentionally mis-aligned it so that it should have had a hard pull to the left and it still pulled right. if it wasn't pulling before and it is now pulling after they aligned it, it is probably alignment. centering a steering wheel is easy to fix by adjusting tie rods. i did it myself as i was not happy on how my steering wheel was centered after they replaced the gear box and i really didn't want to take it back again.

Take it to the dealer let them check alignment, tires, etc. mine was resolved with a new steering box but it could be any of a few things. do not let them tell you it's normal, etc. if it still persists have the service manager drive it. have you checked for pull on a flat road? or does it do it all the time? one thing i noticed and have read online is that these trucks are sensitive to road crown. even after mine was fixed it will pull straight if no crown but slightly to which ever direction the road is sloped down. our roads have significant crown out here.

they are attached to the bed rails with clamps. they are hard to see in the pic but they go over the base (which has a groove/slot in it) and attach underneath with a foot that rests on the top of the clamp screw. i drove 150 miles to drop it off a dealer with iCar certification. they are telling me they have to call GM.

it was always over the cab as shown. at the body shop, just grabbing the end of the cantilevered part resulted in flexing the bedrails and slightly moving the metal by the welds. we only put about 20lbs of force on it. i have never actually loaded the cantilever portion as i haven't had anything long enough yet. body shop believed damage could be done just by the jostling of the upper cantilever on the bumpy roads.

no. there's another tower and cross bar and the back.

almost never. did once or twice to carry some long boards and was on pavement 95% of the time.

body shop mentioned used beds also but it is cheaper to fix existing bed and we discussed them reinforcing it better. i am weighing two options and probably will be based on what GM does or if I file an insurance claim. Get bed fixed or replaced and buy a roof rack that I will use with the rear 1/2 of the existing rack as a ladder rack. I believe if I mount any rack that flexes and puts excessive pressure at the front of the bed I will have the same problem again. Get a utility bed and consider selling existing bed even with damage (body shop said it's a few hours to fix and there will still be demand for it). I would like to mount the backup sensors and camera on it. Not enthralled with the look of it but this maybe a better solution for my needs. (construction).

local GM dealer doesn't have a body shop and it has to be done by an iCar certified facility. service called closest GM dealer with iCar who over the phone said they won't warranty it b/c I installed the rack. they then called the second closest dealer who said they would take care of it (i also spoke with them on the phone) but i need to drive 150 miles for them to evaluate first. local body shop said they see it all the time for vehicles that don't stay on pavement and have racks installed (all makes too - Ford, GM, Dodge). local body shop said $1500 - take bed off, weld, paint, install, but the bed will be compromised and they suggested no rack installed afterwards. $4500 for new bed paint and install.

why not? i have comp, collision, etc. If GM says the rack did it and it's on me then why shouldn't insurance cover?

Curious if anyone is experiencing this. The sheet metal on the upper forward outer corners is tearing and my spot welds (4 of them) nearby have popped apart. The truck has a ladder rack installed, that was purchased through the GM accessory catalog and included with the total purchase price of the truck when bought new. I do live on a mild-moderate bumpy dirt road and maybe the rack isn't allowing the bed to flex. Not sure. Also, I have never come close to the max capacity of the rack. I am taking it to the dealer for them to look at, but may have to call my insurance company. My belief is that since it is a GM accessory that was sold with the vehicle, then it's on GM. Photos show small tears starting on both sides. You can see two holes in each corner pic, the metal is loose and the weld is no loner intact, other pic shows roof rack, corner where tears are starting is a few inches in front of base. Any advice is appreciated.

Have the same problem and upon jump starting it gave me a trailer error. let it run for 20min and was able to restart it. after about 4 restarts it stopped reporting a trailer error but had the CEL on. After a few more restarts all errors/lights were off/normal. i do have an aftermarket amp/system that is powered directly from the battery (fused). i am also using an intercept harness that delivers low current power source from the vehicle to a digital processor. i have checked multiple times during the day and everything is remaining in a shutdown mode. it has been running with no issues for a month now and is operating fine. however, if truck dies again it again i will disconnect the aftermarket system and return it to stock. going in weds and i assume GM service can pull up codes even if the CEL has turned off.