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Everything posted by Aaaaaaaayush

  1. It hasn’t had any problems except for when the mirrors were iced up I would just break them free and they would operate as normal
  2. Side Rearview Mirror Auto Fold Unfold Controller,Mirror Closer Modules Folding Closer Module Universal Replacement for 12V Car https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0925NT3KB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BA3Z7RJWPJBRBDEZP0XC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
  3. The multiflex isn’t available qt6. I think it’s just too heavy for the motor with all the extra hinges and latches. It would be a cool project to diy OEM style and make it work. Start with a used(already programmed) module and a harness and try to put in your own actuator motor maybe a higher torque motor to lift the extra weight. You’ll have to custom fabricate motor mounts and the shaft to body connections. Good luck
  4. The only other way to get in after an electro mechanical failure would be to remove the tailgate cover and pull on the latch release, I’ve done the qt6 tailgate mod previously and I had one problem where I couldn’t open it from any button or key press so I had to hop in the bed of the truck and take off the tailgate panel. If you have a cover that locks from the inside then you’re probably screwed if it fails, but I’ve had it for a while now and I’ve only had that one failure and it wasn’t anything inside the tailgate actually it was the connector under the bed that had somehow come loose.
  5. I think it might just be one of those sensitive sensors or something that didn't really have a problem but just warned you anyway, I've had two misfires over the course of owning the truck brand new for just over a year now, and the check engine light will come on and resolve itself after a day or so of driving, I think its after three restarts the check engine light will reset itself. shouldn't be a problem, if it comes back, take it to the dealer. If you already have the appointment the diagnostics shouldn't take long.
  6. I've played with the BCM plenty to know there are 4 or 5 fuses for the BCM all are labeled but not specifics in the two drivers and passenger side fuse box I doubt there's a fuse specifically for lane keep or the intellibeam. However, windshield camera fuse? maybe? headliner harness powers the overhead console... headliner fuse? good luck again still not sure what you're trying to accomplish.
  7. I've never had that problem, I dont pay for data or hotspot but only for onstar saftey and remote control. I use my home WIFI for the truck and use the weather channel app every morning while waiting for the truck to warm up and it uses my home WIFI to get me the weather. Are you only trying your phone hotspot? it might be your phone, try parking as close to your home WIFI as possible and connect the truck to it.
  8. @Desrunner haha I’m not sure, I don’t like using my phone just for that reason, I just use chrome on my PC with Adblock Plus to block everything.
  9. @Desrunner hehe I figured it out, I guess chrome wasn't letting me for some reason
  10. @Desrunner Yeah I pulled the A-Pillar to run the wire behind the airbag, don't run any wires in front of them. Also the mirror tap will cause you problems like I described above. You have to put that voltage booster in line somewhere. Removing the A-Pillar is only two bolts and some clips its very easy. Also how are you tagging me like that? I'm so confused as to how you're doing that recorded-5657472710854.MP4
  11. Haha Im very good with electrical stuff but what I did with that voltage booster was super super simple just input from the fuse tap and output to the radar nothing too special. The special stuff is what I did with the dash mute button... https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/251656-2019-sierra-stab-switch-mod/?do=findComment&comment=2536717
  12. So mounting the V1 is a simple task but hardwiring it can lead to a bunch of issues as I have found out. However I have come up with a solution that solves all of MY problems but may be difficult for others. Hardware: V1 radar detector Landline Phone jack wire (WHATS A LANDLINE?!) 12V constant power buck/boost converter (amazon) Fuse tap and the actual radar mount https://blendmount.com/aluminum-radar-detector-mount-for-valentine-one-standard-2001r-series-bv1-2001r/ So the easiest way for most is gonna be just using a 12v cigarette lighter port but I hate when wires are hanging down from the windshield like that, so the V1 uses an rj-12(Phonejack) connector for power and accessories. There are 4 pins in total, the two center pins are for 12v power. I used a 4 wire phone cord so that I have the extra two signal wires for any later projects (I did utilize this already). I connected this to the heated steering fuse using a fuse tap, This gives me an accessory power source (only on when the truck is on). This was all a good idea until I started my truck up and the radar turned on and off a few times kind of glitching until the engine finally started, then it stayed on how it should. I figured it was because of the voltage drop while the engine was turning over (brand new truck, brand new battery) so I just thought maybe I could put in a delay relay so that it wont start until 1 second after the engine is started. I did this and it worked flawlessly until... I had an autostop F*CK! same thing the radar glitching on and off until the engine restarted. So I researched the valentine 1 voltage range and turns out its really sensitive to power fluctuations and I think I saw they have some sort of capacitor module to smooth the power, but I cant seem to find it right now. ANYWAY the final approach was to find a device that can accept a range of input voltage and provide a steady 12v output voltage. I ordered a generic one off of amazon, hooked it up and finally everything was perfect, I even put the truck in maintenance mode (everything but the engine on) and let the battery voltage drop past 10v and the V1 was working just fine (it doesn't like anything under 11.3V so I figured the 12v cig lighter port would probably have the same problems as well as the V1 "Savvy" (OBDII Supply) so this was my best solution! Side note, I have other stuff connected in my fuse box but you can see the voltage module in there and how my radar is mounted, Yes the white phone wire is kind of an eye soar but it doesn't bother me too much, ill replace it down the road but it was all that was available at the time. ASK AWAY! any questions you have! Like this post so it bumps it up for others to view!
  13. Its all in the software, you might even be able to get better connection speeds with these updates.
  14. I'm not sure there is a fuse for the cabin lights, I've added underglow to that circuit off of the BCM and accidentally drew too much power and the BCM just tripped and reset 3 times trying to turn on the load until it gave up until I turned the light off then on again. Also it is a PWM dimming circuit coming out of the BCM BCM (Body Control Module) PWM (Pulse Width Modulation)
  15. I've installed the factory OEM fog lights on my truck and mine didn't require me to program anything but I did have the dealer quote me $50 to program it, i guess my truck already had it programmed. Also if you don't intend to use them as fog lights rather just like the look of them on you can just wire them to the headlights so the fogs are on when the headlights are on.
  16. A CB and dashcam shouldn't pull more than 10 amps, i've used fuses on both passenger and drivers side fuse panels for plenty of accessories with no problems. Do you want it only when the truck is on? or always powered no matter what? For my dashcam I require both, one for driving recording and one for parking recording. So the dashcam knows when the vehicle is on vs. off.
  17. What are you attempting if i might ask? And yes the GM body builder has it all !
  18. Sorry Im a bit late but the reverse lights or all lighting in these trucks run through the BCM Body Control Module. Some higher power lights like the headlights have relays in the fuse boxes but those relays get their trigger from the BCM. I've added tons of LED lighting to my interior lights so when I open my door at night everything is lit, There is a limit to how much amperage the BCM can provide. It shouldn't damage anything but the BCM will trip out like a self resetting breaker it will try to start the load a few times and then give up until restarted (I found out when I wired too much to that specific output). Also the light pods in the bumper step may mess with the blindspot microwave radar sensors (If equipped), i believe they are mounted behind the plastic bumper step in these T/1 trucks.
  19. So i have a Valentine One radar detector and there is a pin that i can short to ground to mute the radar and so I wanted a switch that looked oem to do that. I wanted exactly what you wanted and i wanted to use the blank switch next to the auto stop switch. First I looked up how much the switch was (just incase I F*cked up) it was only like $25 so i proceeded! Next I tore apart the switch and looked at the circuit board to see if there was any chips or anything on the blank side. There are no important circuit traces or components on the blank side of the circuit board so I broke it in half and basically just glued in my own micro switch and drilled a hole for the wires. Finally there are two tabs under the switch that keep it in place, I cut those so that the switch could pivot and bam I have and OEM looking switch that mutes my radar when I press it. For High power stuff or stuff that you want a latching style switch you could probably do exactly what I did but use a relay or a latching relay. I did this December 20, 2020 and haven't had any problems with the hot glue or anything (in central texas) and i press this radar mute button at least 10 times a day.
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