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Aaaaaaaayush

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Everything posted by Aaaaaaaayush

  1. Aaaaaaaayush
    THIS IS THE WAYYYY
  2. Aaaaaaaayush
    When you remote start you are giving the module the ACC +12v telling it that the truck is running and not to fold/unfold during driving, GM vehicles have what’s called RAP (Retained Accessory Power) basically when you turn the truck off but the radio stays on until you open your door. I believe I used that RAP source from a fuse tap and it didn’t turn on when remote started, it only turned on when you got in and pressed the start button. There are many configurations with these new trucks, so you have to just test different fuses until you find what you need constant 12v engine running vehicle not on (remote started) 12v Accessory 12v vehicle on engine not running accessory 12v vehicle on engine running accessory 12v RAP runs for 15min or until drivers door is opened after engine is turned off
  3. Aaaaaaaayush
    I never found the correct connectors but it’s worked fine for years, if wired properly it’s fused at 5amps and it’s not mission critical. If the wire comes loose, the mirror will have to be manually folded and unfolded. If the wire comes loose and shorts out, the fuse blows… and it’s a manual folding mirror again. maybe be able to find the connector on eBay or something and salvage the terminals that way
  4. Aaaaaaaayush
    I wired the puddle lights(bottom facing) and the task lights(opposite side of the mirror) together in the door, then at the BCM I got power from the dome light wire, the dome light signal(+12v) is a PWM brightness control that can dim and bright a 12v LED directly. If you try to use a relay it will chatter as the lights fade in and out. Be aware there is a current limit on this output, if overloaded the BCM will attempt 3 restarts(lights flash 3 times) until it works or it’s too much. I was able to get the following led lights all to function just from the dome light wire: dome light, task light(L+R), puddle light(L+R), footwell led stripes (4), and led strips as welcome lights under the truck(6ft L +6ftR).
  5. Aaaaaaaayush
    Check the basics first, make sure you have 12v power. Put a 12v light or a multi meter on the door lock supply you are using from the BCM and make sure you're getting power when pressing lock and unlock, also check the mirrors, using a 12v supply power the motors directly make sure they are actuating.
  6. Aaaaaaaayush
  7. Aaaaaaaayush
  8. Aaaaaaaayush
  9. Aaaaaaaayush
    The door switches communicate using a canbus or GM LAN connection. When i changed my switch it did not work, not a single function. I tried many different things including soldering wires to the pad for the mirror fold button, but was not able to make a relay circuit that stayed on long enough to fold or unfold the mirrors. I did give up on the door switch and put my old one back.
  10. Aaaaaaaayush
    This is correct, here are the connector end views so you know where the pins are.
  11. Aaaaaaaayush
    Seriously! Or at least some likes on my posts
  12. Aaaaaaaayush
    The pins from the BCM are going straight to the drivers door actuator(solenoid), these are the actual High Low signals for the actuator, no relay needed. I did this so that I can unlock and lock my bed mount toolbox from the OEM truck remote key fob. The current from these actuation signals should be plenty for a second actuator in parallel, as it has worked perfectly fine for my toolbox as well as the power folding mirrors. if the new actuator moves the wrong direction just reverse the polarity and it will move the other direction.
  13. Aaaaaaaayush
    Haha I wish I had somebody to give me this information back then… pin 2 and 4 are actually for the drivers door lock actuator, I used these for a lock actuator inside my bed tool box so I can lock and unlock the toolbox from my remote just as you are trying to do for the tonneau cover. you can use the GM Upfitter or body builders manual to find these connectors and pin outs https://www.gmupfitter.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/20_Sierra_1500_Electrical_Body_Builder_2019JUN20.pdf pg.413 is where the BCM connectors start. good luck
  14. Aaaaaaaayush
    https://www.gmupfitter.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/23_Silverado_1500_Electrical_Body_Builder_SM_en_US_2022OCT24.pdf 23_Silverado_1500_Electrical_Body_Builder_SM_en_US_2022OCT24.pdf Page 520/1192 I have not tested this, but its probably just a 12v dimming signal for the dome lights.
  15. Aaaaaaaayush
    It hasn’t had any problems except for when the mirrors were iced up I would just break them free and they would operate as normal
  16. Aaaaaaaayush
    Side Rearview Mirror Auto Fold Unfold Controller，Mirror Closer Modules Folding Closer Module Universal Replacement for 12V Car https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0925NT3KB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BA3Z7RJWPJBRBDEZP0XC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
  17. Aaaaaaaayush
    one million billion dollars haha
  18. Aaaaaaaayush
    The multiflex isn’t available qt6. I think it’s just too heavy for the motor with all the extra hinges and latches. It would be a cool project to diy OEM style and make it work. Start with a used(already programmed) module and a harness and try to put in your own actuator motor maybe a higher torque motor to lift the extra weight. You’ll have to custom fabricate motor mounts and the shaft to body connections. Good luck
  19. Aaaaaaaayush
    The only other way to get in after an electro mechanical failure would be to remove the tailgate cover and pull on the latch release, I’ve done the qt6 tailgate mod previously and I had one problem where I couldn’t open it from any button or key press so I had to hop in the bed of the truck and take off the tailgate panel. If you have a cover that locks from the inside then you’re probably screwed if it fails, but I’ve had it for a while now and I’ve only had that one failure and it wasn’t anything inside the tailgate actually it was the connector under the bed that had somehow come loose.
  20. Aaaaaaaayush
    Any luck finding these terminal pins?
  21. Aaaaaaaayush
    I think it might just be one of those sensitive sensors or something that didn't really have a problem but just warned you anyway, I've had two misfires over the course of owning the truck brand new for just over a year now, and the check engine light will come on and resolve itself after a day or so of driving, I think its after three restarts the check engine light will reset itself. shouldn't be a problem, if it comes back, take it to the dealer. If you already have the appointment the diagnostics shouldn't take long.
  22. Aaaaaaaayush
    I've played with the BCM plenty to know there are 4 or 5 fuses for the BCM all are labeled but not specifics in the two drivers and passenger side fuse box I doubt there's a fuse specifically for lane keep or the intellibeam. However, windshield camera fuse? maybe? headliner harness powers the overhead console... headliner fuse? good luck again still not sure what you're trying to accomplish.
  23. Aaaaaaaayush
    I've never had that problem, I dont pay for data or hotspot but only for onstar saftey and remote control. I use my home WIFI for the truck and use the weather channel app every morning while waiting for the truck to warm up and it uses my home WIFI to get me the weather. Are you only trying your phone hotspot? it might be your phone, try parking as close to your home WIFI as possible and connect the truck to it.
  24. Aaaaaaaayush
    @Desrunner haha I’m not sure, I don’t like using my phone just for that reason, I just use chrome on my PC with Adblock Plus to block everything.
  25. Aaaaaaaayush
    @Desrunner hehe I figured it out, I guess chrome wasn't letting me for some reason

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