xrmik

I dont think its leaking but im not sure about noise. I have some hiss when turning like you would normally only hear if you rotated the wheel all the way to the ends. It isnt moaning or rubbing loudly though. So how bout that pulley? Is that tough?

Im still wondering about the pump... the only evidence i see of a problem is the leaking boot/seal on the rack, steering feels ok so maybe i dont have to do it. How do i know if the pump is good? The only thing stopping me of just replacing it is the removal of the pulley... ive never done that before and it looks tough.

I bled it a second time, after doing the hard stops on gravel and the pedal seems great. In fact it a noticeable difference than how its been the last year or two with the rusted out lines and corroded master cylinder. If there was still air in the pump, would it be immediately apparent by pedal feel?

Thanks for the reply. Im second guessing myself after reading all the posts about the abs module needing the scanner. I also read about cycling the abs on a gravel road which i tried to do. However i am unclear exactly how the abs and truck should respond in such a case. The truck just came to a stop, no skidding... the pedal was softer than it was when i was normally stopping on pavement. Also no abs light came on like i thought it might if i activated the system.

2000 silverado 4.8L. Brake lines rusted out. Vehicle sat for a few months with the lines cut from the abs pump. I lost all fluid. ABS fuse was pulled. Fast forward to the repair... I replaced lines and tried to bleed the traditional way and got nothing although I had pumped about a quart into the system. My MC was corroded and old and I figured that was part of the problem so I replaced it before resorting to towing it into a shop. Afterward I was able to bleed the brakes at all 4 corners with the 2 man method. Most of the air seemed to escape from furthest rear. I used another quart or so when bleeding. I then reinstalled the ABS fuse (no lights now on dash). Brakes seemed a little soft after doing it but I went on a gravel road and made some hard stops and it seemed to tighten it up afterward. I did not bleed the system again. So my question: Is it impossible that my brakes are bleed correctly as they stand now? I ask because I read the warning about needing a scan tool to bleed the ABS to be able to get anything from the calipers at all. I am confused as it seems satisfactory now.

I have a 2000 silvetado the rack is leaking thru a boot, im guessing that means a seal is shot and i need to replace the rack. I have never done this repair, would you consider this a hard diy job to do in my driveway? Is the labor cost at a mechanic for this repair expensive? The rest of the suspension system is original, is there any other component i should replace? Maybe tierods or the ps pump? I was going to use a remanufactured rack and i dont think thoses are part of the unit. Finally, i undetstand an alingment is needed... would the vehicle be driveable after the repair or would i need a tow? Thanks for any insight.