kodiakdenali

Had the defenders on my past Silverado SS, really liked them. great tread life, quiet, good ride. very solid tire. for the Denali I wanted stick to a sport truck/sport SUV tire. I have Toyo Proxes ST3 on it now, I’ve had several sets of those between the Denali and a couple Jeep SRTs. Great tire but did seem to wear faster than I’d like. I’m going to try the Yokohama Parada Spec X this time around just to make sure I’m not missing out on something potentially better.

Guess I can reply myself Saw plenty of posts online about people running the 305s on 9" wheels. also some about having to shop around for a tire place that will sell/install them. some refuse because even though it works fine, its technically outside the specs for the tires. I spoke to my local shop's tire expert, he says 305s on a 9" wheel is absolutely fine. so you might run into shops that won't want to accommodate you, at least one tire guru says its a perfectly suitable combination.

Technically not OEM, but identical design reproductions of the factory 22s. the wheels I wanted were only available OEM in chrome, and chrome is a no go! So I guess the spec is these wheels are 9" wide, I'd really like to run a 305-45R22 tire on there, but when I shop for them seems the specs say the wheel size range is 9.5-11.5, just outside the spec. Anyone else running that size tire on the OEM size wheels? I have 285-45s right now, but they are fewer revs/km than oem, the 305-45 is nearly identical.

Just stopped by over there to say hi and have him do a quick checkup on my setup yesterday. Couldn’t possibly recommend him more. Supercharged at around 2500 miles I think, a bit over 40k now. It's has been flawless.

Actuslly i got some additional info months later. Not such great news though. I asked the techs at a body shop how its done. They said they are actually riveted on from the inside of the door. So to remove them completely you have to take off the door panel, remove the visible screws, and drill out some rivets from the inside. I have to constantly patch my vinyl wrap. Not sure why its having such trouble sticking. I think i may remove it and try plastidip. I did that on the grill and its holding up pretty well so far.

Anyone know how to remove the window trim pieces from the truck? The pieces which are chrome on the denali? I need to get them off without breaking them. I wrapped mine in vinyl shortly after buying the truck but its not holding up as well as id like. I either need to replace the pieces entirely or at least wrap the vinyl around the pieces so its less likely to peel up at the corners.

EPC had one from a 2019 under his desk. Wish i took a picture of it. Broke right in half. Said it happened around 140. I had him leave my speed limiter at 125.

Painted. I bought a set of new handles through a body shop, so they came without chrome and ready to paint, had them do the work. One reason was i wanted that last little detail of having the lock button body color also. I dont think there is a factory option for that at all. I think it looks so much better blending in as it does.

Fyi i left the pad wear system enabled with mine. Theres no actual reason you must disable it. There is no data for the front brakes of course but i still have pad wear info for the rear.

Got your message! Contacting me though direct message right here is a good way to get a hold of me. I’m still making the plugs for anyone who asks for them. shipping costs a couple bucks more than it used to but I still honor the original price in this thread. Anyone looking for them, feel free to message me!

for what its worth, I have both plastidip and vinyl wrap covering chrome on my truck along with some pieces professionally painted. I’m having more trouble with the vinyl wanting to peel off, the plastidip so far is holding up better. which I didn’t expect. I have a few parts that I need to rewrap because the bad stuff is starting to show through. Most of my chrome delete happened before the truck hit 1000 miles, so its been about 3 years now.

Oh how much I love me some Denali chrome I say well done OP! and who doesn’t like red calipers?

In case it helps anyone I have a single gauge pod on thingiverse specifically for putting an iDash gauge into a T1 Silverado or Sierra. You can see it in action on my youtube channel. Here is the model https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5430783

Thanks for sharing! Awesome setup and solid numbers. I know it will be really difficult to judge because it got the blower at the same time, but what was your impression of the transmission tuning? it shifts earlier in the rpm range? is the same true for when your truck is in sport mode? Usually holding out the gears a bit longer is desirable, but it all depends on so many factors. I’m not a fan of the factory shift program on this transmission. it certainly gets the job done, but I’ve always felt like it could be improved. Although if you tell the truck you really want it to go it can. Especially in sport mode I can get some very snappy shifts when I’m on the throttle but as soon as you let off its back to sloppy gear changes. The manual says in that sport mode is essentially an arming type system. as in even when you're in sport mode it only gets sporty when it detects that you’re driving more aggressively and not all the time. There’s definitely a lot of variation in how it shifts, but I can’t get it to shift the way I want it to consistently. Tuning is probably the answer.

Awesome news! I have the pedal monster with an idash and I love the setup, I have been thinking about adding a second idash to the second port to show me more of what’s going on, I should wait until summer to decide! It may not be what you’re looking for at all Mstorm, but on my Whipple I added a stand alone gauge to show boost. I wanted real analog anyway, its just more fun to me! There are ports right on the S/C and that way I’m getting an accurate real time reading.

That gray wire basically is the wire that activates the dome lights, so whenever the upper lights are on in dome light mode anything else tapped in there will also be on. if you turn the overhead lights on manually (map lights feature) it won’t turn on your floor lights, so it works just like you need. note though that this wire will do a PWM fade to make the dome lights fade in and out, so take that into account when attaching things do the circuit. I’m not sure how much extra load it will handle but it can definitely power more than what’s there from the factory. I have a couple of LED bolts attached to it.

Sorry to just drop a you tube but here was my solution to improve the poor lighting. Maybe it will inspire you! https://youtu.be/gd5eeMpHi84?si=-Mt-irqpC5U-ClTQ

How do you like the level kit? Works with arc?

If the amp is small enough and you have the center console there is room under there where you could mount some equipment.

I still make and sell them, shoot me a message! They do have a space on the back where a gasket or o ring would fit if you could locate one of the right size. I make both the square or round plugs.

What kind of 0-60 do you get with the 6.2L? Just curious (the link you posted requires login just to view so I couldn't see...) I talked to a guy once with a heavily modified K2 who said 4hi then shift to 2hi after the launch worked best for him. No idea if that would hold true for a T1. I suspect 4A or 4HI would be just about necessary for me from a standstill.

No OnStar or connected services of any kind here. I called OnStar immediately after buying my truck and made them disconnect it all right away. Had to argue with them a little because I still had a few weeks of my free trial, but I wanted it off right then. then I disconnected the antennas in the truck and verified that none of the connected features work. I'm still rather upset that the dealership signed me up and gave them my phone number without clearing it with me first. I was on the way to pick it up and started getting text messages from OnStar and congratulating me on my new truck. had they asked I would have refused. Now I've got an OnStar account I can't get rid of that I never consented to in the first place. At least its disconnected and I'm not getting any messages from it anymore.

It was just the whipple tune. Im unclear on if the hp tuner credits necessary to download that tune could also be used for a custom tune. I would expect so, but not sure. If i wanted a custom tune id definitly go to him no question. There are TRXs around making a smaller pulley really appealing haha. He has a dyno, if youve seen my youtube videos of the borla exhaust, the dyno clips are at his shop. He does tuning. Last time i was there he had a Challenger Demon in getting its stock blower replaced with a 4.5L whipple. There was a turbo charged jeep srt there which apparently lays down about 1300hp. He also had a classic mustang on a lift which was getting a complete build up from the bare body. Hes got a Camaro as his personal vehicle and a truck i think. Basically, dude knows his stuff and has lots of experience.

there's a vent duct that blows cool air from below. not sure if its actually air conditioned or just ventilation, but either way, they did take steps to deal with heat. I've never used my wireless charger either, the location just isn't convenient for me and need to plug in for android auto anyway.

Ernie at EPC is the guy who did mine, I couldn't possibly recommend him enough. He did fantastic work. I know he's further than you wanted to travel, but if you were looking for feedback on his work, I couldn't be happier. He had it for...2 and a half days start to finish, but I did buy a new ECU to do the replacement so my truck wouldn't be down while he was working on it. He was able to find the ECU for me, which was not an easy task at least at the time. I also had him install performance dual springs on mine as I was right in the middle of the build range when GM had that defective spring issue that was killing 6.2s, and I had just put a blower on it so warranty should a spring break...right! He did phenomenal work on both jobs.