DenaliSS

Update - So I installed this CAI last night and really easy install. I much prefer the "cleaner" look of the engine bay, with a CAI. Personal opinion here, I think it looks better than the S&B CAI I had, which filled a lot of space and also keeping with keeping OE MAF harness, no extensions (Cold Air Inductions system). I'll see what the numbers tell me after a month of driving to work (~25 miles one way), with this Stillen intake and CAI combination, versus the S&B. From the short time of running errands though, I do like the sound and pick up, with finally mating to my LT headers/mid-pipe/Corsa exhaust.

Thanks for that info. Like the options for future use. I've been very happy with my experience with these Chevy performance Brembo option. I bought the truck pre-owned (5/21) and the front pads went 40k miles. The only ding I would give to this brake package, is the single piston rear caliper, I much would have preferred a twin piston.

Dynamic Friction (604-47079) pads are on option and popular with the PPV and CTS-V crowd, with their brake conversions. The Tahoe PPV brake upgrade is very close to the GM Performance version. You can also try Power Stop, as they make the rotors for the PPV, but in either case, double check the measurement to make sure the pads fit the rotor surface.

That appears to be a nice system and sure looks nice. A friend of a friend were selling their 2021 Silverado 6.2 and moving on to another manufacturer. After reverting back to OE, he was planning on selling his CAI system, but I was able to barter some services he needed at his house and got the CAI, along with some cash. So I'll give this Cold Air Inductions brand CAI a go, along with this Stillen Air Intake Scoop I installed over the weekend. With that intake scoop, I removed the passenger top aero shutter fin also, for constant air flow here in SW Florida. Throttle response should be noticeable, while hoping to gain cooler air between the CAI/Stillen system and monitor if slight mileage gain, compared to what's advertised.

FYI - When I had that S&B CAI installed, which I had for 3 years, that extension harness supplied in the S&B kit was identified by my tuner as faulty and causing issues with the MAF. I decided to revert back to the OE airbox and later moved to a system utilizing the OE location of that MAF. If I had further problems, it would be much easier to replace OE harness than trying to source aftermarket pieces to replace, that may not be available separately from a kit. I just wanted a cleaner look and smoother flow than what was provided by the OE unit, leading from the airbox to the throttle body. That and a better filter media than the OE paper filter, that I ever was impressed with. I'll have to look into the Stillen and Bison products that have caught my interest.

This thread is long but worth the read and video links. Lots of information from those who have installed important to keeping in mind, wheel offset differs with the wheel size your running, due to the thicker rotor. https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/installing-2021-ppv-style-6-piston-brembo-front-brakes-on-a-2007-yukon-denali.139670/

I have the Retrax XR version and has been a great choice. Which Pelican case did you use?

Generally good advice and part of an overall defensive driving strategy, in which I know all to well, having a commercial drivers license (CDL) in a tourist state. At times it feels all the nation's bad drivers schedule and convene to enjoy vacation time. You'd think drivers could adhere with that one piece of advice you've given, but surprisingly there's fender benders on a regular basis in active school zones.

Yeah, like mentioned earlier and another post, my LTZ has this option and is nice to have. Back in 2021, after months of searching, decided on the pre-owned truck with 6k miles. That caveat of requiring 20" wheels wasn't an issue since I was transferring my 20" forged wheels from my '03 Denali, but the challenge has been to find an alternative to changing out the spare tire hanger to accommodate the smaller center bore of the forged wheels. The Brembo brake option I'm quite happy to have, as they have performed very well with the truck when needed, on those occasions where you can't predict what other drivers will do.

Since I posted about replacing the rear pads, I wanted to add to, that's worth mentioning and indeed easier than read -

In short, yes on aftermarket UCAs. The offset of wheel is an important factor to consider and if little trimming is desired, I'd save for a lift to accommodate 35s.

Force of habit with me, is to visually check the brakes with rotation of the tires. At least with that schedule, it helps me keep the brakes and other components on a regular maintenance check. Don't use the monitor. I bought my truck pre-owned, which had some performance parts already installed, with one being GM's front "Brembo" brake option. I mention that, because that option has the sensor disconnected, so the monitor is of little use anyways, when it's just the rears. Last year when looking for those front pad replacements, I decided to replace the rear pads at the same time to pair with the fronts. Sort of a baseline of reference for me for maintenance. Anyways, I ended up staying with the ceramics, deciding the carbon-fiber ceramic pad wouldn't get up to temp to be an effective alternative, even if I had been buying for the front OE and considering my at times, spirited driving. I only see that choice for race, track or police package, imo. On a side note, looking at SS braided hoses to get that pedal feel I had with my previous truck. My choices of brands are from a checklist of what I'm looking for in pad construction and components that I've used in the past and while Wagner would have been to look at, it seems the Wagner (with a few other brands) line of pads have suffered in quality and performance lately. Something to look at and consider also.

When you say you checked the wires, does this mean the pigtails connecting to the power harness located underneath the bed, to the rear? Hopefully nothing else got damaged and just not all the plugs secured in the sockets.

Wix 10255xp for reference here and know of no other higher capacity oil filter in this line for 6.2. FWIW, I used Interstate AGM H7 for my replacement.

I use a soft face hammer to remove the guide pins and pull the retaining clip. I then use the existing pad itself or if needed to get some space between disc and pad, I have a small thin pry bar (used for wood trim work) and finish seating the piston with a spreader. Spray down the caliper to clean, prior to installing new pads. Others may differ on the tools or procedure, but is what works for me and with the tools I already have. These calipers are costly and would really not use tools such as a C-clamp, with a chance to mar the finish.