DenaliSS

Update - So I installed this CAI last night and really easy install. I much prefer the "cleaner" look of the engine bay, with a CAI. Personal opinion here, I think it looks better than the S&B CAI I had, which filled a lot of space and also keeping with keeping OE MAF harness, no extensions (Cold Air Inductions system). I'll see what the numbers tell me after a month of driving to work (~25 miles one way), with this Stillen intake and CAI combination, versus the S&B. From the short time of running errands though, I do like the sound and pick up, with finally mating to my LT headers/mid-pipe/Corsa exhaust.

Thanks for that info. Like the options for future use. I've been very happy with my experience with these Chevy performance Brembo option. I bought the truck pre-owned (5/21) and the front pads went 40k miles. The only ding I would give to this brake package, is the single piston rear caliper, I much would have preferred a twin piston.

Dynamic Friction (604-47079) pads are on option and popular with the PPV and CTS-V crowd, with their brake conversions. The Tahoe PPV brake upgrade is very close to the GM Performance version. You can also try Power Stop, as they make the rotors for the PPV, but in either case, double check the measurement to make sure the pads fit the rotor surface.

That appears to be a nice system and sure looks nice. A friend of a friend were selling their 2021 Silverado 6.2 and moving on to another manufacturer. After reverting back to OE, he was planning on selling his CAI system, but I was able to barter some services he needed at his house and got the CAI, along with some cash. So I'll give this Cold Air Inductions brand CAI a go, along with this Stillen Air Intake Scoop I installed over the weekend. With that intake scoop, I removed the passenger top aero shutter fin also, for constant air flow here in SW Florida. Throttle response should be noticeable, while hoping to gain cooler air between the CAI/Stillen system and monitor if slight mileage gain, compared to what's advertised.

FYI - When I had that S&B CAI installed, which I had for 3 years, that extension harness supplied in the S&B kit was identified by my tuner as faulty and causing issues with the MAF. I decided to revert back to the OE airbox and later moved to a system utilizing the OE location of that MAF. If I had further problems, it would be much easier to replace OE harness than trying to source aftermarket pieces to replace, that may not be available separately from a kit. I just wanted a cleaner look and smoother flow than what was provided by the OE unit, leading from the airbox to the throttle body. That and a better filter media than the OE paper filter, that I ever was impressed with. I'll have to look into the Stillen and Bison products that have caught my interest.

This thread is long but worth the read and video links. Lots of information from those who have installed important to keeping in mind, wheel offset differs with the wheel size your running, due to the thicker rotor. https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/installing-2021-ppv-style-6-piston-brembo-front-brakes-on-a-2007-yukon-denali.139670/

I have the Retrax XR version and has been a great choice. Which Pelican case did you use?

Generally good advice and part of an overall defensive driving strategy, in which I know all to well, having a commercial drivers license (CDL) in a tourist state. At times it feels all the nation's bad drivers schedule and convene to enjoy vacation time. You'd think drivers could adhere with that one piece of advice you've given, but surprisingly there's fender benders on a regular basis in active school zones.

Yeah, like mentioned earlier and another post, my LTZ has this option and is nice to have. Back in 2021, after months of searching, decided on the pre-owned truck with 6k miles. That caveat of requiring 20" wheels wasn't an issue since I was transferring my 20" forged wheels from my '03 Denali, but the challenge has been to find an alternative to changing out the spare tire hanger to accommodate the smaller center bore of the forged wheels. The Brembo brake option I'm quite happy to have, as they have performed very well with the truck when needed, on those occasions where you can't predict what other drivers will do.

Since I posted about replacing the rear pads, I wanted to add to, that's worth mentioning and indeed easier than read -

In short, yes on aftermarket UCAs. The offset of wheel is an important factor to consider and if little trimming is desired, I'd save for a lift to accommodate 35s.

Force of habit with me, is to visually check the brakes with rotation of the tires. At least with that schedule, it helps me keep the brakes and other components on a regular maintenance check. Don't use the monitor. I bought my truck pre-owned, which had some performance parts already installed, with one being GM's front "Brembo" brake option. I mention that, because that option has the sensor disconnected, so the monitor is of little use anyways, when it's just the rears. Last year when looking for those front pad replacements, I decided to replace the rear pads at the same time to pair with the fronts. Sort of a baseline of reference for me for maintenance. Anyways, I ended up staying with the ceramics, deciding the carbon-fiber ceramic pad wouldn't get up to temp to be an effective alternative, even if I had been buying for the front OE and considering my at times, spirited driving. I only see that choice for race, track or police package, imo. On a side note, looking at SS braided hoses to get that pedal feel I had with my previous truck. My choices of brands are from a checklist of what I'm looking for in pad construction and components that I've used in the past and while Wagner would have been to look at, it seems the Wagner (with a few other brands) line of pads have suffered in quality and performance lately. Something to look at and consider also.

When you say you checked the wires, does this mean the pigtails connecting to the power harness located underneath the bed, to the rear? Hopefully nothing else got damaged and just not all the plugs secured in the sockets.

Wix 10255xp for reference here and know of no other higher capacity oil filter in this line for 6.2. FWIW, I used Interstate AGM H7 for my replacement.

I use a soft face hammer to remove the guide pins and pull the retaining clip. I then use the existing pad itself or if needed to get some space between disc and pad, I have a small thin pry bar (used for wood trim work) and finish seating the piston with a spreader. Spray down the caliper to clean, prior to installing new pads. Others may differ on the tools or procedure, but is what works for me and with the tools I already have. These calipers are costly and would really not use tools such as a C-clamp, with a chance to mar the finish.

In cross-referencing between models within the GM family (GMC, Chevy, Cadillac) that share this brake package, an update to the pad replacement for P/N #84263246 (#85138044) you can refer to AC Delco 171 - 1202. AC Delco uses original Brembo pads (P/N C5041200) in their packaging. These are the ceramic pads.

If anyone has changed out their OE brake lines to SS lines, please post up what you have found. Thanks!

Since posting, Replacement Pads - 84263246, Replacement Rotors - 84070075 From Brembo site, the cross refence numbers ~ P10103N NAO (ceramic) brake pad or P 10 103 Prime Something I did forget to add as an fyi is that the OE 17 inch spare tire will not work and will need to be at least a 20 inch wheel. I've also noticed some threads saying that they have sensors with this brake system, which this Brembo system was not equipped for. As stated on the description and in the install sheet, this system is not ePWI compatible; The brake pad life system (ePWI) must be turned off. This is necessary because the Performance Brake Package is equipped with brake pads without electronic wear sensors. When the system is turned off, the front and rear brake pad life percentages will not display. However, the built-in wear indicators that make a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are worn can still determine when the pads should be replaced.

For future reference, I received my truck pre-owned with 7k miles (May 2021), with of course no knowledge of driving style and currently have 41400 miles on the odo with eighth inch (3mm) pad left to wear indicator bar with normal highway/city driving.

Good info to fall back on. That does have me rethink maybe my air filter maintenance being done every other oil change, than my usual routine of doing so every 5k...which was last week. With that, the filter had collected some insects and may do the wrap on filter to possibly extend the needed filter maintenance on my preferred oiled filter.

It's probably the silicone seal S&B uses. The only flow numbers I've seen between dry vs oiled is roughly 1% difference.

The AFE Dry Flow filters are excellent to use and have also used in my past vehicles and still with the wife's car. Unfortunately if you've purchased the S&B CAI, you'll only find a smaller cone filter size to accommodate the flange size in your CAI. The AFE filters are more $$ on average it seems presently. I go with the S&B oiled version, as the media is cotton, vs the paper dry filter and can stretch the filter cost, by multiple reuses, while also providing increased air flow with my LTs and aftermarket exhaust. Issues with a oiled filter are due to over oiling and shared your concerns years ago, but best advise is to follow the instructions and allow oil to naturally saturate the media. The filter only needs a thin layer of oil. I'd also be interested in a dry cotton/synthetic filter option, as long as it accommodated or complimented the S&B box design. We do have dusty and/or dry parts of our seasons, where a dry filter would be the better option.

I figure I'll post my experience with Corsa exhaust and long tube (LT) headers - I concur with the sound of the Corsa Touring. I had that exhaust system in my 2003 GMC Denali, with the 6.0 and LT headers. The touring system toned the sound down at idle and cruising, but hitting the gas, it gave out a nice growl. I was disappointed that Corsa didn't offer the same for my newer Silverado with the 6.2, which has Kooks LT. Lacking much in video clips of the various systems mentioned and others, I opted to go ahead and give the Corsa Sport a shot, with removing everything from behind the headers. Initially the start-up bark was way to loud, toned down a bit after warm-up, but had a raspy edge I didn't like. This wasn't Corsa fault per se, but because of the LT headers. After a couple months and some miles into the system, I installed a Vibrant Ultra Quiet resonator in front of the muffler, which improved the sound quite a bit. After a few more months and miles, the system has toned down a bit more to my acceptable levels, but still slightly louder than the touring system in comparison. Many have commented to me that the truck sounds great and although I love Corsa more than others, maybe I was just accustomed to the sound the touring system provided. Just a FYI for those who have or are planning future install of headers. Present day prices are pretty steep and if you want to save a few more $$$, opt for aftermarket polished SS tips. There's a few out there at substantially less.

I had a 6.0L in my last truck, the natural progression would be the 6.2L, right? Haha I'm really happy so far with the 6.2L mated with the 10-speed and I'm averaging double the mpg compared with my last '03 GMC Sierra Denali and that's with keeping it in AWD.

Have you checked locally for a competent shop in your area? A good welder is essential and may have a source for the tips your looking for. Here's another thread, with pics, if you haven't seen. I'm a fan of those double-walled dual tips and would love to finish the backend with those.