I'm sure they have the silverado lights as well. for what its worth, I think rigid makes brackets to replace silverado fog lights with some better fog light pods. might actually get much better performance out of something like that than OEM
https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-fog-lamp-84513246?c=bD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT1nbWMmbz1zaWVycmEtMTUwMCZ5PTIwMjAmdD1kZW5hbGkmZT02LTJsLXY4LWdhcw%3D%3D https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-fog-lamp-84513247?c=bD0yJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT1nbWMmbz1zaWVycmEtMTUwMCZ5PTIwMjAmdD1kZW5hbGkmZT02LTJsLXY4LWdhcw%3D%3D Post here if you succeed in your project!
the trim piece above the cluster will pop straight up and give you access behind the cluster. there is a panel on the far left side of the dash that pops off to give access to the fuse panel under there once that's off you will see a couple of T15s that if removed will allow you to pop off the drive mode/headlight switch panel. after that I think there is another bolt and you can remove the speaker grill but the A pillar cover must come off first, remove the two small caps near where the handle connects and remove the two bolts, there is one last metal clip that is rather difficult t
wow. so they removed it from 21s? This is one of the reasons I'm leery of updates, I want bug fixes if there are problems, but I'm afraid of them adding these kind of "features" that actually take away things. although, you really aren't missing much...the browse feature's interface is really not the best, and if you've got a folder with any number of files in it there's no way to quickly scroll through them. its actually rather difficult to find what you want even if theoretically it does allow you to browse. its only really useful if you have only a handful of tracks.
interesting...I don't know if were talking about the same feature or if it something different on the 21s but mine allows me to browse the USB drive contents and pick songs while driving. you can do it right on the DIC even using the steering wheel controls.
I had no idea the trucks would dechrome themselves if I just waited longer! maybe I shouldn't have spent so much time and money removing all the chrome!
I couldn't find anything relevant on search. I notice that at times when using android auto the volume of the audio is very low. even with the bose system I can turn the volume up to 100% and still not clearly hear the audio with the windows down at interstate speeds. granted its quite loud under those circumstances, but the bose should have plenty of power to overcome the wind noise. this volume issue seems to happen quite often, but not always. when its not acting up I probably can't get the volume level beyond 25-30% before its too loud. when auto is connected the volume on the phone is loc
I had my springs replaced with a dual spring setup just for peace of mind. Mine was built in the middle of the valve spring issue. The 3.0 whipple on a 6.2 is going to make high 400's to low 500's whp, if they are making 600whp, they are doing way more than just the blower, or putting a much smaller pulley on it. Its definitely not the whipple kit as is.
First I've heard of an inability to tune also. You read the stock tune out with the software and send it to them, that's how they know the exact spec on your truck, re calibrate it for the changes the Whipple will give, and send you the programmed file. I don't know what remote turning is about, unless you're talking about that process. They were great to work with overall, although they did apparently refuse to re calibrate for my non-stock tires (275/50->285/45) for some reason. such a minor thing I decided not to worry about it. the truck runs very well with their
if it helps, I unfortunately didn't get a before run, but my 6.2L made 354 HP and 393 lb-ft to the wheels using SAE corrections with the Borla ATAK (stock otherwise). I made a video about the install, if you would like to see the dyno run its around the 13:30 mark. On another video I saw of a 6.2 stock on a dyno made 350/376 on a dynojet, I don't know if that's SAE or STD and of course its not a great comparison, it was a different truck. but just as a reference if that is representative of stock numbers looks like the Borla may have added decent bit of power.
I would need to research a lot more to see what products are out there, but it appears that there at least exists some "end cap" heat shrink tubes, the largest ones here are about 4.5" long, basically a piece of heat shrink but with one end capped off instead of just open. this could be a great solution to the door handles. https://www.amazon.com/Heat-Shrink-End-Cap-Pieces/dp/B00ZYTQ7A4/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=heat%2Bshrink%2Bend%2Bcap&qid=1618499373&sr=8-3&th=1 much better options than amazon: https://www.mcmaster.com/Heat-Shrink-Tubing/heat-s
I was thinking of asking for tips since I haven't done this myself yet. did you take any of the pieces off or do the work with them installed? many of the chrome pieces are actually separable from what's around then. the ones around the LCD screen for example are attached with screws and some melted plastic tabs. you'd have to break the tabs, but they should be able to reinstall pretty easily. I'm wondering if all of that is worth the effort to be able to wrap the vinyl around behind the piece to prevent any chrome peeking through or if its possible to do just as good a job without taking thin
it doesn't even have a microprocessor in it! its a single PCB inside a rubbery casing with a counter circuit, a few supporting semiconductors and a transistor...$5 maybe, probably less with mass production. they even solder the wires directly to the PCB, even sparing the expense of a connector to make disconnecting the POS easier.
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