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kodiakdenali

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About kodiakdenali

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  1. Unless I'm missing something the only options I see there are to turn on and off various pages of the info display, second page from the left. I want to remove the nav page from the top level menu, and the phone page if that can be done. the phone page isn't a big deal though, its the nav page which "hangs" as you try to scroll left or right telling you to enable nav on the infotainment screen. its not a big deal, but life would be better without it.
  2. thanks! I will look, I thought that was only to turn on/off pages in the...I don't know what its called, one page to the right of home, where you can scroll down and see all the various gauge displays, I thought that setting in options was only for that. if it does allow me to remove the nav (and phone) from the horizontal page list...problem solved! I will check it out.
  3. if you're willing to share! I'd add a small accommodation in the bottom so I can use body adhesive tape to install a small magnet in the bottom of the door panel, and one in the bottom of the trash bin...hold it securely in place between emptying.
  4. Preference really. Actually all I'd really like is to remove the navigation DIC page. when you scroll left and right on the DIC the responsiveness is pretty fast...until it hangs on the navigation page. I think it actually requires you to dismiss a message saying something about activating the nav on the infotainment display or something. you can't just scroll past it. thing is, I've never used the factory nav, and I never will. I've never agreed to its TOS or privacy policy. I have my onstar, mobile data, GPS etc physically disconnected so the factory nav can't work anyway. I won't use it for privacy reasons. I use an open source offline nav on my phone and I'm perfectly happy with it. works with no data connection, sells my whereabouts to no one. I've had factory navigation in several previous vehicles and in every one of them we find we stop using it and just use phone based navigation within a year or so. the nav on my other two cars (one rather old, the other one not old at all) doesn't even recognize the road I live on exists...and they want like $200 for the map updates...just no. speed limit displays are nice, except if you know the limit and keep track of how often the nav based limit display is wrong you'd never trust it. I actually prefer that display turned off, bad information is worse than no information. I like all the features of the high end infotainment display, I just have no use for factory nav. and it gets in my way on the DIC.
  5. That's awesome! I love this kind of innovation. There should be a dedicated thread for sharing 3D printed creation. Although I just want to point out, it's printed with PLA? you know PLA has a low melting point, they likely won't survive summer heat in a car. ABS is the go-to for car prints, I've also had good luck with PETG even in automotive applications. It's still a great idea though!
  6. On a slightly related note, does anyone know if its possible to delete factory navigation from a truck that is originally equipped?
  7. I'm not sure what the current date range is, it was June 1 2020 through I think mid October, then was revised into September. I'm not aware of any further revisions.
  8. It's a risk you have to accept. It's illegal for gm to void your warranty because of a supercharger or any other aftermarket part. Technically in order to even deny an individual claim they have to prove tbat the aftermarket equipment caused or contributed to the failure. While that all sounds good, i wouldn't put it past a dealership to decide after their investigation that these led license plate lights (yet alone a mod such as a blower!) Are the reason your valve springs broke and toasted the engine. And should they claim that what's your recourse? Hire a lawyer and spend more in legal fees than paying for a repair out of pocket? Rest assured if there's any way to deny a claim, they will. Both procharger and whipple offer a powertrain warranty through a 3rd party if you want to have the extra peace of mind.
  9. You wont regret it! Do your research on who you get to do the work (unless you are able to do it your self of course.) My tuner has an impeccable reputation in thenlocal community, and just as importantly mine was not the first t1 he's done. He did however still have issues and setbacks on the computer end. I dont know all the details. At one point the keys worked but the remote start didn't. He got it all working perfectly in no time but it did require research and apparently subscribing to some advanced diagnostics and tools to make everything happy. He said there were some complications with the 20 he didnt have on the 19 he did also. I dont know details, but these trucks dont like to be tuned. It takes someone who knows their stuff. I think he spent about a day just trying to get all the tuning, computers, anti theft etc happy and a day and a half installing the blower itself. When you pick a tuner ask if they've dug into a t1 before...make sure they are on good terms with a dealer who has access to gm tools in case they get locked out. Didnt happen to us, but he had that as a backup plan. Def not intending to scare you, just saying make sure you pick a tuner/shop that is up to the task.
  10. Very nice work! did you do any drawings of your design? in-progress pictures? this is a project I will take on at some point and just like you, the more information I can absorb prior to my own design the better it will be!
  11. I think its the same process with both kits. you need to go through hptuners to get an ECU exchange for an unlocked unit. before you send it in your tuner pulls your stock tune from your original ECU with hptuners software. you get the exchange then they download your stock tune back into the new ECU and re-pair your keys. that stock tune is also sent to ProCharger or Whipple and they modify it based on the supercharger and send it back via e-mail. once the blower is installed the tuner downloads the modified tune and you're off to the races. from my research it looks like ProCharger includes the hptuners exchange in the advertised price of the setup, Whipple just notes that its an extra expense. but its the same process either way. also looks like ProCharger recommends a plug change, Whipple includes the NGK plugs with the kit. as for shifting, no problems with mine at all. when you accelerate aggressively the shifts are fast and firm, as soon as you are driving more casually everything is buttery smooth just like stock. that's in sport mode of course, might be even softer in touring. You really can't go wrong with either kit, I'm sure the procharged T1 is every bit as fun.
  12. true, but remember that you aren't just getting a set amount of boost at any given RPM, you won't boost at all unless you open up the throttle. you can accelerate the truck from a stop to highway speed at 1/2 throttle, get it to high rpms, and probably never get into any boost with the blower staying in bypass mode the entire time. but as soon as you really push the throttle the boost is there whenever you want it. Its all about how you drive it. The difference is with the procharger at lower rpms the boost isn't available when you want it, not until you get the rpms up. The truck is still plenty strong with the 6.2L even if you don't get into the boost at all. You just have a lot more power in reserve for when you want it.
  13. I have that exact exhaust on my 2020 Denali 6.2L I love the ATAK! its exactly what I was looking for. installation was pretty easy. the hardest part was getting the stock tips off the rear bumper but even that wasn't too bad. if you have a long wheel base truck you'll need the extension Borla PN 60706. the tone of this exhaust is absolutely perfect for me. its a tad loud on cold start but it quiets down very quickly and has just the right balance of sound and comfort. I've got no drone at all that I can hear and I heard no change in exhaust note at all as a result of DFM. You can hear the exhaust all of the time but its quite mellow at idle and cruise, aggressive under heavy acceleration but still not deafening. and of course it has such a nice tone to it. the only thing I can't comment on yet is if it starts to drone when towing as that's usually the worst scenario for it. I haven't had my trailer hooked up since I did the install. one thing however, if that does become an issue, is Borla actually makes it possible to replace one piece of the system with a $200 S-type muffler to effectively turn your ATAK into an S-Type to quiet it down some should it become too loud. I really like that I've always got that to fall back on should I find any case where it does start to drone, however so far, not the slightest issue. Did you see my video of it on youtube? I went through the install and did a few sound clips captured by good quality external microphones. if you hear sound clips recorded on a smartphone or even a video camera's internal mic they never really reproduce the sound well enough, the preamps aren't high quality! not saying mine is perfect, but it does a pretty good job vs what my ears hear. I'm planning to do a follow up video with a bunch more sound and video clips, just impressions after a few months with the exhaust, but that will have to wait until winter ends. I'd be happy to answer any questions you'd have about it. if I had to make the decision again, 100% I'd pick the same exhaust a second time.
  14. Indeed. but I'm not worried about that at all, 1000 is well beyond my power aspirations for the truck
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