After some thought and invoking Occam's Razor, I've concluded that I must have brushed the 4WD LO button with my hand after fiddling with the HVAC vent adjacent to the shift cluster. Thankfully, the truck software prevented the shift. I'll pay closer attention next time I'm adjusting the vent.
2022 GMC Sierra 3500 with 6.6L Duramax and 10-speed transmission with 37K miles. So towing a 5000 lb TT yesterday at 60 mph (after towing without problems for 2 hours) I noticed the dash light drive indicator was flashing 4-Low with a popup warning instructing me to reduce speed to enable shift. I had just used my turn signal to change to right lane when it happened. No way I brushed the transfer case shift button. After a few seconds of flashing, the indicator returned to 2WD and the warning disappeared. No repeat for the rest of the tow (approximately 100 miles). I'm a bit un-nerved by this. Has anybody else had this occur. I'm I getting an early indication of 10-speed transmission or transfer case failure?
If the hitch installers did not disconnect the battery (batteries) before starting the installation they may have accidently zorched a module of one type or another when mating the connector. Did they confirm pin-outs (with the vehicle and accessory wiring diagrams) before making the connection? Good luck troubleshooting. It is unlikely the hitch installers will have the requisite knowledge and skills to accomplish this.
OP & others above besides Another JR - RTFM!!!! (Read the F'ing Manual). The Facts & Data therein "shall set you free" and explain the use and operation of the HUD... and all other vehicle system features. The Moroney window sticker you received with your vehicle purchase will list what options and features came with your particular vehicle.
I sourced the correct color spray to match my Banks pod mount to my gray trim. It turned out to be a perfect match. I don't remember if I purchased the rattle can direct from Banks or if there was a link on the Banks website to a vendor. Go back and review the Banks website.
No with the following caveat - if the valve is knocked off the pan (because it protrudes further than stock plug) and the service manager figures that out, any claim for lubrication failure will be summarily rejected.
I've used Fumoto valves in the past on a 4.3L S-10 and a Subaru Legacy with good satisfaction. They are well designed and manufactured. However the typical "knuckle dragger" doing oil changes at a dealership can be confused by its operation and will remove it like a normal drain plug. This may result in the need to remove and replace the sealing gasket. Ask me how I know... aarrrggghhh!
The Police are trained to position their patrol car to protect themselves against a drunk bozo side-swiping or rear ending them while the cop is at the driver's window of the pulled over violator. The patrol car "aimed" out into traffic provides a protective barrier.
There was a documented list of PIDs available that was supplied with my iDash. Check your packaging and shipping paperwork. I also remember looking over the instructions and list on-line before I bought the iDash. My iDash has been flawless and has many more display options and parameters than the scan gauge 3 I used in my previous 2018 GMC Canyon with 2.8L "mighty mouse motor" Duramax.
Kerry -- Your Leer dealer is incompetent. I Installed the same kit on my 2022 3500 with Leer canopy and had at least 18-24" of slack left over when the cable was correctly routed per the well-written and illustrated Camera Source instructions. This kind of typical hack job by canopy installers is why I did my own wiring of the keyless lift glass lock/unlock and 3rd brake light.
Jettech1 -- I found a short length of 1/2" diameter piece of plastic waterline (the cross-linked hot and cold H2O type that uses the yellow glue) fit over the hitch pin and keeps the curved part of the pin away from and interfering with the hitch hole. This may save you the cost of a new straight hitch pin. I may have to see about a warranty repair to my hitch though as the pin is loose in the hole from the prior wear. I note that the 2" square sleeve adapter included with my truck's OEM 2-1/2" hitch is a loose, sloppy fit and maybe contributing to the wear situation. My draw bar is 2" so I have to use the sleeve.
Curved end hitch pin may be a root cause. I too have oblong wear of the hitch tube hole that I can relate to the curved end shoulder of my hitch pin wearing (more like beating) the hole out of shape. I use an Anderson WDH with my 5600 GVWR TT. Others on my Lance trailer owners forum have observed the same type of wear and that they commonly attribute to use of a curved end hitch pin.