NWStever

After some thought and invoking Occam's Razor, I've concluded that I must have brushed the 4WD LO button with my hand after fiddling with the HVAC vent adjacent to the shift cluster. Thankfully, the truck software prevented the shift. I'll pay closer attention next time I'm adjusting the vent.

2022 GMC Sierra 3500 with 6.6L Duramax and 10-speed transmission with 37K miles. So towing a 5000 lb TT yesterday at 60 mph (after towing without problems for 2 hours) I noticed the dash light drive indicator was flashing 4-Low with a popup warning instructing me to reduce speed to enable shift. I had just used my turn signal to change to right lane when it happened. No way I brushed the transfer case shift button. After a few seconds of flashing, the indicator returned to 2WD and the warning disappeared. No repeat for the rest of the tow (approximately 100 miles). I'm a bit un-nerved by this. Has anybody else had this occur. I'm I getting an early indication of 10-speed transmission or transfer case failure?

If the hitch installers did not disconnect the battery (batteries) before starting the installation they may have accidently zorched a module of one type or another when mating the connector. Did they confirm pin-outs (with the vehicle and accessory wiring diagrams) before making the connection? Good luck troubleshooting. It is unlikely the hitch installers will have the requisite knowledge and skills to accomplish this.

OP & others above besides Another JR - RTFM!!!! (Read the F'ing Manual). The Facts & Data therein "shall set you free" and explain the use and operation of the HUD... and all other vehicle system features. The Moroney window sticker you received with your vehicle purchase will list what options and features came with your particular vehicle.

I sourced the correct color spray to match my Banks pod mount to my gray trim. It turned out to be a perfect match. I don't remember if I purchased the rattle can direct from Banks or if there was a link on the Banks website to a vendor. Go back and review the Banks website.

No with the following caveat - if the valve is knocked off the pan (because it protrudes further than stock plug) and the service manager figures that out, any claim for lubrication failure will be summarily rejected. I've used Fumoto valves in the past on a 4.3L S-10 and a Subaru Legacy with good satisfaction. They are well designed and manufactured. However the typical "knuckle dragger" doing oil changes at a dealership can be confused by its operation and will remove it like a normal drain plug. This may result in the need to remove and replace the sealing gasket. Ask me how I know... aarrrggghhh!

Yes travel on gravel roads can easily cause such chip damage to paint as CamGTP suggests.

The Police are trained to position their patrol car to protect themselves against a drunk bozo side-swiping or rear ending them while the cop is at the driver's window of the pulled over violator. The patrol car "aimed" out into traffic provides a protective barrier.

There was a documented list of PIDs available that was supplied with my iDash. Check your packaging and shipping paperwork. I also remember looking over the instructions and list on-line before I bought the iDash. My iDash has been flawless and has many more display options and parameters than the scan gauge 3 I used in my previous 2018 GMC Canyon with 2.8L "mighty mouse motor" Duramax.

Why isn't this defect covered on your 3 year warranty?

Kerry -- Your Leer dealer is incompetent. I Installed the same kit on my 2022 3500 with Leer canopy and had at least 18-24" of slack left over when the cable was correctly routed per the well-written and illustrated Camera Source instructions. This kind of typical hack job by canopy installers is why I did my own wiring of the keyless lift glass lock/unlock and 3rd brake light.

No RTA tax on my 2022 3500HD in King County, WA. It's a miracle when the taxpayer gets a win!

Jettech1 -- I found a short length of 1/2" diameter piece of plastic waterline (the cross-linked hot and cold H2O type that uses the yellow glue) fit over the hitch pin and keeps the curved part of the pin away from and interfering with the hitch hole. This may save you the cost of a new straight hitch pin. I may have to see about a warranty repair to my hitch though as the pin is loose in the hole from the prior wear. I note that the 2" square sleeve adapter included with my truck's OEM 2-1/2" hitch is a loose, sloppy fit and maybe contributing to the wear situation. My draw bar is 2" so I have to use the sleeve.

Curved end hitch pin may be a root cause. I too have oblong wear of the hitch tube hole that I can relate to the curved end shoulder of my hitch pin wearing (more like beating) the hole out of shape. I use an Anderson WDH with my 5600 GVWR TT. Others on my Lance trailer owners forum have observed the same type of wear and that they commonly attribute to use of a curved end hitch pin.

Camera Source - Camera Relocation Kit

I disabled AEB as I don't want to risk inadvertent (false positive) hard braking because the system has confused an oncoming vehicle safely in its own lane as an imminent threat. I left the red warning alert enabled which I note sometime goes off as I approach an inside (RH) curve with an oncoming vehicle presenting the camera a collision threat. Seems like a recipe to get rear-ended. As for Another JR's experience with enhanced braking, I believe the owner's manual describes an enhanced braking performance capability when the brakes are applied quick and hard by the operator. The reason being to give an initial extra braking capability that improves stopping distances of our big and heavy trucks. Check out the owner's manual for more details of the braking system enhancement.

Yeah ratcheting box end wrench will be what I use assuming the nut size is covered by what is already in my tool box.

An open end wrench at 1/3 rev will be on the aggravating side of the experience. Nevertheless thanks for the information regarding wire loom fastening. Hopefully it will be straight-forward and easy to secure the bundle after the shock has been replaced. I need to use the pry bar to lift the inner fender up far enough to see the details of the stud caps you mention. Cheers

So I'm in process of R&R'ing the stock Ranchos with B4600s. The rears were quick and easy to swap out and the right front (passenger side) looks to be straightforward. However the left front (driver side) looks like it may be a struggle because access to the top fasteners is partially blocked by both the inner fender liner (the pressed rat fur type) and a loom covered wire bundle that is zip tied along side the upper mount. Though I was able to swap the rears out without lifting the truck, I will have to lift the truck and remove the front wheels to provide good access for the front shock swap. But I'm still concerned by the liner and wire bundle on the left side limiting top fastener access and making what should be an easy job into an aggravation. I have a diesel with dual batteries and the driver side battery blocks access to the fasteners from the top. So my question to those who have gone before me, did you discover a procedure to minimize difficulty with the left front shock swap? TIA

I installed the Draw-Tite hitch on my 2022 GMC 3500HD. Did not have to remove the skid plate. Installation was straightforward but I could have used a helping hand to hold it in place while I got the fasteners started. The only modification to the truck was a very slight (< 1/4") trimming of the truck's chin air dam above the receiver tube.

Google is your friend: https://touchupdirect.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_9uY_9ab_QIVXiytBh0pSAa7EAAYASAAEgIrSPD_BwE White Frost Tricoat is listed for 2022 GMC Sierra. I've used red quartz tintcoat touchup in the past for a 2018 GMC Canyon. Good results.

Another JR -- Yes I knew your comment was "Tongue in Cheek" but I wanted to let others to understand the possible benefit of a front receiver. I'm surprised I didn't take heat from an insulted wife or two. I'm certainly glad my wife doesn't visit this forum!

A front receiver can make recovery from a difficult (trapped!) trailer turn around situation manageable. Many folks also use them to help park trailers in difficult, tight spots. OTOH, the seriously blocked view with the trailer in front of you limits the utility for tight parking unless you have a carefully observant and level-headed spotter who can give clear, unambiguous directions. Most wives will not pass that test. Obviously YMMV! Cheers!

Another report of no play nor any hang-ups when elec lock is released. OP - Given your description of the repair, I would be negotiating with insurance to have the entire tailgate replaced. I hope you're successful.