richard wysong

a lot depends on how you plan to drive it. burn outs and donuts will stress it no matter what hp. I ran them in circle track cars with around 400hp and never had a problem other than a broken axle flange even with the spider gears welded together

true but most ppl don't have acsess to a rivnet kit

if its not deep enuff for a helicoil I would go to the next largest bolt and drill/ tap the hole for that bolt'. I believe those are 10-1.50 bolts so next size up would be 12mm. you may be able to go to a 7/16 self tapping bolt too

I agree, check the fuel pressure and volume first, if it has a fuel filter change it and check it for water and sediment by dumping/ blowing it out. there are numerous things that can cause those symptoms so data stream info/ codes are essential for accurate diagnosis. codes do NOT mean replace the part necessarily but give you a path to follow to find the problem. sounds like exhaust restriction to me, you could try removing the upstream 02 sensors and taking it for a test drive, make sure the exhaust from the missing sensors doesn't damage anything

have you scanned it for trans codes and data? you may want to do that before you fire the parts cannon. the code readers the parts stores use may not have the capability to do trans codes

maybe you should let it rest longer when you check the oil. its possible the oil drain passages are stopped up somewhere in the engine. I would take it back to the dealer and have them check the vacuum pump

I had a donut gasket blow out on the approach to the George Washington bridge in New York city, pulling a trailer in stop and go traffic with my 98 k2500hd. I would have bet $ that I spun a bearing. 200 miles from home I was relieved it was just the exhaust. the three bolt flanges had rotted away. I still haven't found a 2 piece replacement flange but was able to mouse it together with the 3 piece universal flange and the welder. I really don't want to cut the y pipe to replace them with 1 piece flanges.. on the way home after dropping the trailer in Baltimore I saw a guy on the southern approach to the bridge with the engine out of his van in the breakdown lane, amazed the cops let him do that

check the exhaust manifolds and bolts and where the pipe meets the manifold. it may be a small exhaust leak that sounds like engine noise. when you accelerate the engine moves on its mounts thus putting pressure on the exhaust system. they may have disconnected the front pipe to do the rear main and its not sealed or the bolts aren't tight. manifold bolt breakage is common on the 53

you should have charged them labor, if you didn't do the repair yourself they would be paying the bill

sounds like they had a leaky cap on the storage tank that let rain water in or you refueled while they were filling it

theres still gonna be some water in the tank so use isopropyl dry gas for a while to help it burn off. methanol dry gas does not mix with the water.

if you have to replace the shoes it may be easier to pull the axles to get the hold down springs on and off, if the backing plates have seen better days change them, they make 2 piece 1s if you don't pull the axles

if the parking brake works don't worry about it, if it doesn't stop the truck from moving in gear there is a star adjuster on each wheel but you will probably want to remove the rotors and clean and check the shoes and lube the adjuster. no drag is good

the transfer case fluid doesn't matter, trans fluid will work just fine. the transfer case is purely a mechanical connection and can't slip

you may be better off to have it flushed, its been known to cure all kinds of problems. how does the fluid look? burnt or metalic looking?

yeah doesn't sound good, as a last resort try over filling it and see if it helps. you can try dropping the pan and changing the fluid and filter but you may find that it wont do anything after if the pumps failing and it looses its prime.

yeah check the brakes, parking brake shoe delamination is common but I don't think it would cause your symptoms. make sure the caliper slide pins aren't frozen

that will do it! NEVER buy gas when they are refilling the tanks, it stirs up any water or crud in the tanks and most dispensers/ pumps don't have filters. almost ALL storage tanks have some water in them

to replace the pitman arm you have to at least unbolt the box to get clearance for the puller. some guys try to cheat and use heat to get the arm off which may damage the seals and weaken the sector shaft. resealing is usually pretty stralght forward, I don't think the shaft can be installed a tooth off. do you have equal steering wheel revolutions left and right? I agree with redvett, take it back cuz somethings not right with the job they did

stock suspension? have you done a close inspection of the springs and hangers, bushings? If it has spacer blocks it may have weakend the spring with the extra leverage. you may be able to add a short leaf to the top of the stack to compensate

crank sensor will cause no start but it wont have spark more than likely. cam sensor will throw the timing off but it should still run even with it unplugged

extended crank may set maf code. They are very likely false codes and wait til its running to address them

could be timing chain. vacuum gauge may help diagnose that. if it is you may have valve damage. again basics. whats the compression? at least the parts stores close to borrow the tools if you don't have them

as with any diagnostics start with the basics, good fuel pressure and volume, compression, spark, vacuum. codes may give you a clue on what the problem is but don't put parts in unless you know the parts ng. could be timing, vacuum leak, cam or crank sensors , injector wiring and on and on. try unplugging the maf and try it. you may need a scan tool with data stream and scope capabilities if the basics check out

codes don't mean replace the part, they are to help with diagnosing the malfunction