Brenden Burnham

You need to start new thread. This thread was for oil cooling line, not tranny. Need to start your own thread.

Good to hear.

And did yours throw a code?

Oh dang really sorry to hear that. I have seen some videos. Really more than what I can do tool/space and patience wise lol. If I had a lift I most likely would. The one benefit of having a shop do it is warranty. These guys do good work I had a dodge ram where they did a tranny rebuild in. Was good to go(till it got wrecked not my fault). Is yours the clutch pack as well that went out? Seems that is a common problem in these. Seems in my case the piston became hard and leaked oil and burned up the 3-4 clutch pack. Can tell with the piston oil in the fluid. You will notice a darker fluid and it will smell as well.

Yes true and they also confirmed if it was electrical it would of thrown a code. Said tranny fluid dark most likely the piston hardened up leaking oil destroying the 3-4 clutch pack which they said is all too common issue on these Tranny's.

Just got back doing diagnostic. The 3-4 clutch pack is done. So will need a complete rebuild($3200). Ugh

You have been a great help thanks so much.

Fluid at correct level and looks fine, not dark at all. No leak's at all looking underneath. is 4wd.

They want $130 just to diagnose it(am sure just a scan). I could buy a scanner for that price but they obviously know what they are doing and what to look for. They told me even if it was just the solenoids that it would cost most likely $2500-$3000 to fix and that who's to say that another issue may not come shortly down the road so a rebuild is highly recommended regardless. Just really do not know what to do at this point.

So an update. I took it out this morning in case possibly it was something that had maybe got wet and dried off and possibly correcting the issue, I had this happen with getting a spark plug wire wet once threw engine code and misfire but ended up drying up and correcting itself(was on a dodge ram I had). First two minutes of driving I was happy. Felt normal it shifted to 2nd and then it actually shifted to third, I was like YESSSSS issue gone. This was unlike yesterday where it would not shift to third at all. However it never shifted to 4th so my the thought of the transmission actually being bad became more of a reality and not just a faulty wire or solenoid, or something electrical. After it warmed up a bit(driving about 5 minutes), it got worse and I noticed it started slipping. Would go to high rev's before sometimes shifting to second and same thing going to third. In second it would sometimes go to 3k+ rpm's and backing up on the throttle would sometimes put it in third. This was a hit and miss. Same thing going from 2nd to 3rd gear. Sometimes it would go sometimes I would have to let up off the throttle and would eventually shift. So in my mind the Tranny for sure needs a complete rebuild or replacement. Something I cannot do on my own in garage. Called one shop and want's $3200 for tranny rebuilt. Wish I knew someone with a shop here that could lift and help me do the swap if that was the case I would probably take it on. If not probably going to sell the truck to someone that has the capability to do so. Just really sucks the motor and everything else seems great no issues drives really good(before tranny issue). Second time I have had a tranny go out on one of these trucks. Previous was a 1999 Silverado 1500 STL. Just really frustrated at this point.

Will a scan show something even without a CEL? There is no CEL so does a transmission scanner still show issue?

Really has me thinking about the wiring. I mean immediately after the wash it happened. Not sure where the contact points for the wiring harness is but is it possible for them to get wet that are outside the transmission?

When it does shift from 1st to 2nd it does not sound at all like it is slipping. So does this typically mean it is the shift solenoid? which would be the 3-4 one.

To add there is no check engine light.

Not sure if this has any bearing but I just got out of a carwash and now the truck won't shift into third gear. 1st and 2nd and Reverse all work fine. I checked the tranny fluid level and is good. Just want to see if there is anything else I can check but most likely my worst fears have come to be. Is the Tranny done? What else to check?

Any updates on this?

Absolutely lol. Have the ones I replaced in center console for that reason

Following

I had a pretty bad coolant leak was evident near the upper part of the Radiator. Went into a parts store and an employee told me to try the bars leak heavy duty radiator stop leak that his father swears by the stuff. I was skeptical but for $8 I had nothing to lose. Put it in and took it home that night. Next day I did not see the normal puddle of coolant I normally did under the front of the truck. I drove it for a couple hours and not a single drop of coolant leaked and the constant smell of coolant was gone. I did this 3 months ago and still have not had to put a single drop of coolant back in the truck. I know yours isn't the Radiator but point is some of these so called "snake oils" do actually work.

Is my understanding that the resistors end up bringing back up the amperage therefore defeating the purpose of low watt LED's. and they no doubt can get hot especially depending on the load. Although when talking LED we are not talking that much but more heat than without and who knows if one malfunctions?? Not going to take that chance. "Yes, LED resistors can get hot. The heat generated is in proportion to the amount of current flowing through them and the voltage dropped across the resistor. Voltage X Current = Watts. The more Watts, the more heat."

So what is your thought in just replacing the flasher relay with one that just disables the "hyper flashing"? That is the route I am going.

Honestly I don't exactly know how it all works as well I just have been reading a lot of reviews of the stuff of late trying to figure out best route to go and that relay for me seems legit. But you are right you could also do the relay's. for me less possibly stuff and especially possibly hot stuff the better.

Because LED draw's much less current than Halogen our trucks think the light is burned out therefore causing turn signal to hyper flash which is what it does to warn you when a light is burned out. The problem with those Load equalizers is they end up giving the actual amount of load to the LED which is my mind you do not want to be giving the LED more load than it needs. Also those resistors was told can/do run hot, and you need one per set of lights. No thanks. The fix is get the Relay that turns off hyperflash. No additional hot parts, etc. Search for Standard Motor Products - EFL-6 EFL6 Relay Is a direct replacement of your existing one.

Welcome and that truck is super nice. Cannot wait to see all the mods you do.

Found out you can get a "Flasher Relay" that replaces existing and this fixes the "hyper flashing" issue. Just will not know if you are out a light based on the hyper flashing anymore. Easy enough to check time to time and not have it hyper flashing anytime the turn signal is on. I will do that when I get other lights switched out.