Firetiger(MN)

I don't have many miles on them yet, and nothing off-road or on wet pavement to see how they compare to KO2's. Hope to get on some trails next week but there hasn't been any snow yet either to see how they work in that. I'm looking forward to getting some snow to try them out! The only thing I noticed right away was that the tire shop put 35psi in them and it made the truck wiggly/squirmy at times on the highway if you laterally crossed over a seam or a crack in the pavement. With the factory tires at 35psi my truck never acted like that so it was very apparent something was off when first driving with these tires. Almost like you had crab steering or one of the wheels was loose. I filled to 45psi when I got home and now the truck tracks normally.

I just had a set installed on Tuesday and the price difference between the KO3 and KO2 was negligible (~$430/ea) so it wasn't a difficult decision to just go with the KO3's. I went up a size from the OEM 275/60 Goodyear's to 275/65.

Here are the RTA results from my '23 with Bose where I checked the output signal going to the speakers. EQ was set to flat on the radio and pink noise was used. Dash: Front Door: Rear Door: Sub:

There are only LD and HD 2023 Silverados, I believe. I'm not sure what you're looking for. GMUpfitter.com has the diagrams.

I used PAC SH3802 adaptors for my front door speakers. Edit: My truck has Bose. Not sure if the adaptors are different, FYI. Crutchfield should be able to help you out.

Dash Sub Front door Rear door

The rears won't do much due to the equalization applied by the Bose amp. I used an RTA to examine the signal going to the speakers and the rears start to roll off under 500Hz or so. I wouldn't waste the time/money on different rear speakers.

Metra 72-4573 worked in my '23 with Bose.

The wiring on the "refresh" models appears to be different and I would suggest not copying what the OP did, as he has an older truck. I looked over the schematics and it appears they are sending a data signal to the overhead module rather than switching the power on/off from the BCM under the dash like they did in the pre-refresh years. The module in the overhead then does the power switching to the dome lights. Maybe I'm not interpreting the schematics correctly, but that's how I'm seeing it.

Also wanted to add that I used Metra 72-4573 harnesses for the dash speakers and PAC SH3802 harnesses for the front door speakers to plug and play with the Bose speaker wiring at each location. The PAC's were provided by Crutchfield when I bought the 6x9's but they said they didn't have a harness for the tweeters so I sourced the Metra from Sounds Good Stereo for those.

I just completed an upgrade to my 2023 Sierra w/Bose (same color as yours and with the diesel!) and would highly suggest getting a T-harness for the Bose amp. It is a lot cleaner and you can use all of your factory speaker wiring so that you don't have to pull new speaker wires to the doors and dash. I used an amplifier with high level (speaker) inputs so the harness wired right to the amp inputs, and then wired the amp speaker outputs right back to the harness to go out to the speakers. Super simple integration and didn't need to cut or splice into any factory wiring. There is a company that had a module that would integrate with the head unit and completely eliminate the Bose amp, but they had problems and it has been pulled off the market for now. Ultimately that is the way to go as you can avoid the factory equalization that is done in the Bose amp. But, for now we just have to work around that with things like a T-harness. If you decide to go with a T-harness I would email John @ [email protected] and let him know what you want to do. He'll set you up and you'll be on your way. I would also suggest concentrating on the dash and front door speakers before the rear doors. The rear door speakers are "fill" and with a good set of components up front you won't miss the rear door speakers at all. I left the factory rear speakers in place but turned them down quite a bit to keep them out of the way of the rest of the system. I went a slightly different route and used Audio Frog widebands in the dash rather than tweeters and Audio Frog 6x9 midrange speakers in the front doors. The widebands play plenty high bouncing off the windshield so I have no regrets not putting tweeters up there. A pair of 10" subs under the back seat rounds it off and I really like the results. It was a lot of work but worth it in the end.

The harness that you get from John connects to the Bose amp which is behind the back seat on the cab wall. You'll need to remove the seatback to get to it. I don't know exactly what the module is in your photo, might be the radio tuner. I also saw that in the passenger footwell when pulling a wire for the amps I'm installing in my '23 Sierra. I'm still waiting for an amp rack (Monday) and then I can actually start swapping in the new parts and pieces. Good choice on going to John for the harness. I was going to go with that other company but kept hearing the same negative reviews and then I stumbled upon one of his YouTube videos and then reached out to him. After a few emails back and forth he had it mailed out pretty quick. As I was still assembling parts for my install, I wasn't in a rush but it was still nice to get prompt service.

The first FM car radio was introduced in 1952. 60 years later and GM can't figure it out. Unbelievable.

Not sure I've seen this kit previously mentioned here. http://www.readylift.com/news/cat/racing-news/post/2014-GM-1500-ReadyLIFT-Products/ 2014 GM 1500 ReadyLIFT Products Available Now and In Stock: CHEVROLET/GMC - 1500 - LEVELING KITS 2007-2014 SILVERADO/SIERRA 1500 1.0"-1.5" Lift 2WD & 4WD - 6-LUG 66-3090 2007-2014 SILVERADO/SIERRA 1500 1.5" Lift 2WD & 4WD - 6-LUG 66-3080 2007-2014 SILVERADO/SIERRA 1500 2.25" Lift 2WD & 4WD - 6-LUG 66-3085 CHEVROLET/GMC - 1500 - OEM STYLE BLOCK KITS 2007-2014 2.25" TALL BLOCK 1.0" Lift 2WD & 4WD - 6-LUG 66-3002 2007-2014 3" TALL BLOCK 1.75" Lift 2WD & 4WD - 6-LUG 66-3003

They don't use a solar sensor in the dash anymore? That's what biased the climate control in older trucks, such as my '06.

I'm curious as to what you discover as I'll most likely be doing something similar once I get a '14, although I may replace all the speakers and maybe add a sub (depending on available space). I've seen some folks use the JL Audio signal processor (CleanSweep) to correct the signal that is mutilated by the Bose amplifier and that might be the best route to take if you want better quality. The other option is to use the line level converter and there are a few different types out there that people have used to integrate their aftermarket systems. This is some info for pre-14 trucks: 8. What adapter do I need to keep the factory radio, but replace the speakers/Bose amp with an aftermarket speaker/amp combination? -PAC AOEM-GM24. This allows you to completely remove all factory stock speakers/Bose stuff and still keep the factory radio working fine. It will give you front/rear RCA line-level outputs that will hook up to any aftermarket amplifier. Much to people's surprise, the factory Bose head units have a surprisingly "clean" line level output that will sound very good with aftermarket amps/speakers. There is NO Bose equalization and NO 'bass cuts as the volume goes up' coming out of the Bose head units. All the Bose garbage happends in the Bose amp itself. You will still retain all volume/bass/treble controls on the factory radio. NOTE: THIS IS NOT a standard "LOC" (line output converter, hooks to the factory speaker wires and gives you RCA plugs) that you can buy at any stereo shop!!! LOC's work completely differently and while they will work, the PAC AOEM-GM24 adapter will give you a MUCH cleaner signal because it grabs the line-level audio coming out of the head unit, NOT the audio thats already been mucked around with by the Bose amp. There is a difference! Especially with subs, the Bose signals are rolled off on the low end as they cross over to the subwoofer, so therefore bass especially will sound muddy and crappy on aftermarket speakers hooked up with an LOC. If you use a PAC AOEM-GM24 on a NON-Bose radio and are completely replacing all the stock speakers and installing aftermarket speakers and amps, I advise you go to the dealer and have them reprogram the radio to BOSE ("UQ7 w/o Y91"). There are separate instructions on how to program the radios. The reason I say this is because the NON-Bose radios output a semi-crappy signal that is designed for the crappy non-Bose speakers, as you turn the volume up on the non-Bose radios, bass is severely rolled off to protect the crappy non-Bose speakers. If you reprogram the radio to BOSE, the outputs will be low level, clean, and not 'messed around with' or equalized. 9. How do I keep the stock Bose speakers, but just supplement them with an aftermarket sub? -PAC AOEM-GM24. Same adapter as above. Keeps the Bose speakers working, and gives you RCA line level outputs to hook up to an aftermarket amp/sub. When you hook up the aftermarket sub, I advise to disconnect the factory Bose sub. Dig into the console and unplug the Bose amp's C2 (8 pin) connector, then pull the DARK BLUE/WHITE, DARK GREEN, LIGHT BLUE/BLACK, LIGHT GREEN/BLACK wires out of the connector, then plug the C2 connector back in. This will disconnect the factory Bose sub.

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