davidm767

I have a Diamondback Switchback which is a tri-fold. They are pricey, but for what you're getting it will absolutely hold up to the elements. I also have ZERO worries about someone trying to break into it since it is VERY secure to the bed. I've I stood on the cover a few times when I needed an even surface. It supports 1200lbs static weight and 400lbs haul weight up top and it definitely feels like it. I've also had to use their customer service twice (both partially my fault) and they comped me parts to fix the issue. I don't have a gooseneck so I can't verify that setup will work, but they advertise compatibility. https://diamondbackcovers.com/products/diamondback-switchback-chevy-silverado-2500-3500-2020-up?variant=40349814161507&chosenFinish=Rugged_Black

The telescopic arm that allows the mirror to extend and retract out/in for towing.

Reference this reply to a post I made in the troubleshooting forum. It’s probably the Trailer lighting control module that’s causing issues:

I ran into the exact issue on my wife’s ‘23 Subruban 3.0, nothing seems to work. I however found a reverse light for my 2024 2500HD LTZ that I’ll try on hers when we finally (someday) get hers back from the dealership (lemon issue, needs a new transmission). Here’s the link: LASFIT 912 921 LED Bulb Reverse... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081YL2Q2W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I have the Max tow package and a Diamondback Switchback hard cover which protects the connector (inside the bed) from the elements. I have zero issues with disconnecting the bar when towing, because it’s quick and easy. The bar is not much helpful anyway when there’s a trailer in the way.

It happens to me as well…after a few drives it starts to shake/rattle. A quick extension & retract fixes the problem, but it’s annoying all the same. I also made a post about it a month ago and never got an answer if there’s a way to actually tighten the mirror.

Did it have it before and stoped working? My '24 LTZ with the multifex does not have this capability (just unlock and fold down) and from what I understand only certain optioned out 2024's have this.

I tapped into the Curt 57004's 5th female port (the unused port) with the reverse wire. I used a Bullet style butt connector to make it a semi-permanent fit. I emailed OPT7's customer support team with the suggestion and they said they would pass along the information to their engineering team. I also left a review on their amazon page so others can be made aware that the 57004 is the solution to GM truck issues. I however doubt we are the only ones running into this problem!

Check out this post...I assume the 2021's aren't much different that the 2023 AT4's I'm doing a Kryptonite stage 3 level installed and was told that the 35x12.5x18 Toyo Trails run will without rubbing on stocks (he's done them before). Wheel upgrades unfortunately will wait a until little down the road.

So I found a quality LED tail light replacement that works great. The LASFIT 912 921 LED Bulb Reverse Light, 6000K White Canbus Error Free T15 W16W (https://a.co/d/ecuXYmf) on amazon is a drop in LED replacement to the incandescent W16W bulb. It had no problems with the DIC or Entertainment center that my wife's Suburban did when I tried finding alternatives for her ride.

@Nick McDermott I can now confirm that the Curt 57004 works GREAT with my OPT7 bar in my 2024 2500HD LTZ. The light bar looks great!

I can now confirm the Curt 57004 7 to 4/5 pin connector works great with my LED light bar. I imagine this also might be a work around for those who have issues with their truck not recognizing their trailer.

Nick, If you refer to the troubleshooting forum I brought up the problem. There might be a work around that I'm going to test tomorrow (Curt 57004 7 to 4/5 pin WITH built in Resistor). If this works I'll happily report back.

Thanks for your quick reply. So it is a load resistance problem, great to know! It seems even PUTCO's quick connect harness isn't built for the 2024 model (apparently GM changed the light connector harnesses), however the bar you linked does seem compatible with 2024 trucks (albeit at 3x the cost of the bar I purchased). Thanks to you I did find the Curt 57004 7 pin to 4/5 pin connector with a load resistor for LED lights. I'm going to purchase this as a possible work-around and I'll connect it to the in-bed 7 pin receptacle. If it does I'll solder the reverse wire into the 5th pin port. Hopefully this will be a permanent solution to my current (pun intended) problem. Thanks again!

I posted a reply in the MODs forum as well, but I have a question for the bigger group. I tried connecting a aftermarket tail light bar to my 2024 Chevy 2500HD LTZ with the MAX towing package. The problem is I am not getting adequate (really almost no) power to my 4 pin in-bed receptacle nor my 7 pin bumper. I tried running my multi-meter with the hazards on and its not showing a consistent power supply (I am getting inconsistent .05v spikes every few seconds though). For the Bumper I ran a Curt 55384 in-line 4 pin connector, which also doesn't show power. I checked all the fuses in the box and they are good to go. I've read the 2023 post about trailer lights not working on some older trailers as well as LED lights, but I know the 2024 is a different beast from an electrical standpoint. I guess my question is: 1) why aren't the 7 and 4 pins powered? 2)Is there a way to permanently power them if they require a certain load resistance to operate? FYI the bar works great on my Wife's rental Jeep Wagoneer when connected into the 4 pin (displaying a check trailer lights DIC message likely due to the low draw).

Nick, I ran into the SAME exact problem this morning when I tried wiring it up. The light bar works GREAT on my wife's rental SUV 4 pin connection. However I do not have ANY power to my 7 pin or 4 pin, even with a Curt 55384 inline. So I'm going to ask the greater community WHY the 4 pin in-bed and 7 Pin in Bumper connectors show no power!? I'm very likely returning my power bar if it turns out I'll have to hardwire into the lights...these trucks are surprisingly sensitive to electronics and I'm unwilling cause other issues by splicing into factory wiring. My wifes 2023 Suburban went through about 3 sets of LED bulbs (even ones that said they were CANBUS compatible) and NONE of them worked without triggering a message and causing some VERY strange things to happen to her Entertainment center.

Has anyone successfully found LED bulbs that wont trigger the bulb burnt out message? I ask because I tried a handful of bulbs with my wife's '23 Suburban 3.0L and none of the bulbs (even with "built in resistors") worked without messing up the entertainment system (bizzare result!) and a bulb message. I'm looking specifically to get more lumens out of the back-up bulb really on both setups. Also, can some one point me out to a thread or aftermarket parts on how to replace/upgrade interior overhead LED lighting? The only thing I found was the floor lighting thread. The Chevy LED dome and map lights are PATHETIC both in the 2500 and Suburban. Thanks!

Thanks Gayle...I did try that (a little field troubleshooting) when I was on the road and it did dramatically reduce the amount of vibration from the mirror. But at the same time it wasn't a cure all as the rattle was still present (albeit less noticeable). Again, I'm only on dirt roads a few times a year so its not going to kill me (as long as the mirror doesn't fall off).

First time post from a new Chevy HD owner and I need the brain trust to help me out if y'all don't mind. I have a new 2024 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ 6.6L DMAX that I bought in July. It has abut 2500 miles on it and runs great. The only issue I found was when I hit dirt roads. The driver mirror is fairly loose, by loose I mean it bounces a little and makes quite a bit of noise when I hit washboards or potholes. I noticed the Passenger side mirror seems to be much tighter and doesn't rattle/bounce. I don't frequent dirt roads a lot except when I hunt or camp, so its not going to drive me nuts every day. However, is there a way to tighten the mirror at the fold point? Should I even bother taking the plastic shell off (or is it even possible?). Thanks for any information. Dave