davidm767

I've developed a new slightly annoying rattling noise. The rattle (sounds almost like a cavating pump or trapped loose metal debris) occurs during acceleration at highway speeds and only around mid-pedal throttle application. Has anyone else experienced this? Its new to me (truck is 15 mo old and ~11k mi) and I started noticing it after I bought a new 5th wheel and towed it halfway across the US. Specifically it sounds like its coming under the driverside dash and/or forward of that. Its not something that will get me to bring the truck in for that specific reason, but if someone noticed and solved that problem I'd love to hear it.

This time last year it took 6 weeks to get my wife's TCV on her 10-speed 10L80 3.0L Duramax. It ended up failing on their test drive and we waited another 6 weeks to get a whole new transmission. It's sad they haven't built up enough TCV spares on both the 6.6L and 3.0L to stamp out long waiting times. I've thankfully had no drivetrain issues on my '24 2500 6.6L Duramax, but my household is sitting at .500 batting average for failures so I'm skeptical at best with the reliability of these 10 speeds both 10L80 and 10L1000.

@TurboTime It's been a little over a month since y'all asked for Beta testers on social media. Any information on how the program is going? Are we looking at weeks or months until the release for our 2024's. I appreciate any information you might be able to release.

So my collision shop is finally fitting a new tailgate to my truck. Hopefully by close of business tomorrow I'll be headed home from the shop with my new gate. Thankfully I was able to use my truck during that time (I had an end of season camper trip my with fam). Grand total? A little over $3k for the new gate (I only pick up the deductible), the adjuster was actually surprised that it didn't cost more as he was assuming it would be closer to $6-8k before he sat down and worked the quote. Bottom line I learned two things...1) The '24 is a fair bit harder to back up than previous trucks I've owned by using only the mirrors and looking out the back window (I have a stacking bed cover which doesnt help) 2) I'm going to be very paranoid about my blind spots from here on out when I have the gate down.

My truck had that problem a month ago, around 10k miles on a 2024. It went away. I have no idea why this problem came about, but it only lasted for a tank of diesel (really a tank and a half) so maybe it was bad fuel? Not sure!? I've driven 2k miles and many tanks since (big road trip with trailer) and had zero issues since. EDIT: I just re-read that you had a gasser...maybe it is a CAT issue then, hopefully it will be a transient issue like mine was.

Yesterday I felt sick to my stomach after backing into a pole with my multi-flex tailgate down (at my in-laws place 1000mi away from my home) … does anyone know if they sell the tailgate as a whole unit? I called a dealer and they have the metal shells, but all the innerds, hinges, solenoids, wiring, plastic and paint is not included. Thankfully my truck frame was not damaged and the main gate is still ~mostly~ functional (inner gate only closes on one side). I’ll likely just take her home and deal with it there, but if I can just buy the whole unit I’d save myself a few days/week in the body shop. If not I’ll look online at salvage yards. Thanks!

I had my Infotainment center updated when I had my ECU/Emissions recall performed a few months ago. Between that and disabling quick start Ive experienced zero issues connecting to Apple CarPlay. I think disabling auto-air updates as well would be a good way of preventing further issues down the road (i just manually pull updates when I'm connected to my house's extended wifi). Prior to the updates I had to turn off Blutetooth and Wifi on my phone and manually re-connect the phone on the truck. Hopefully this helps someone.

Same problem here. I believe until enough companies learn to crack into the new ECU architecture it may be awhile. Until then I've memorized my speed correction between 50-80mph and Banks iDash provides a corrected speed. However they have not provided a way to reprogram the ECU to adjust for size.

Not a problem whatsoever...Its been a great add on and I've not had an issue with any of my Banks products so far. I wonder if you had leak somewhere in your system? Not on my current truck, but I had a Turbo discharge pipe silicone coupler somehow get loose a few years back, it caused all sorts of mayhem with codes and reduced power.

Sounds a lot like what my wife went through on her '23 Suburban 3.0L. We went into limp mode after dropping my 24 2500HD off for some minor cosmetic warranty work. Luckily we were just down the street after dropping my truck. After months of waiting for the valve body and when it was installed the mechanics didn't even get out of the lot on a test drive before the vehicle went into limp mode again. Long story short, we waited several more weeks to get a brand new transmission. The valve body has a high failure rate on these 10 speeds (which is also shared with Ford) and frankly thats a real shame. Thankfully our new Trans works great with no hiccups since.

Also, if you so desire, OnStar sells an App only data package that allows all the apps (including Google Maps) on your Chevy to still update/use data. CarPlay is the way to go if you want to keep it free.

Just installed yesterday: Fuel Rebel 8 20x9 +01MM offsets on 35x12.5x20 Falken Wildpeak AT4W. There was a little rubbing of the front fender liner at full steer so I trimmed about 6" off the bottom of the liners and now have no other clearance issues. (EDIT: Sooo I found out that the trimming was actually unnecessary (DOH!). There's a bracket that is fairly thin attaching the front of the liner to the frame and it can be bent enough (~1.5" forward) to clear the larger tire. Although trimming it was unnecessary it doesn't look too bad so I'll take the lower case L on that one).

The Banks iDash has the ability to calibrate the speedometer (as a percentage difference from stock tires). This is just one of many benefits to owning the gauge. (EDIT: Correction, only the iDash will show corrected speeds)

In short no...I have a '24 LTZ with around 5k miles (I don't commute to work so its mostly short trips and my early fall AZ elk hunting trip - with a few scouting trips). Off road, on road the truck works near flawlessly, except a driver mirror that rattles on the dirt roads. I've had the truck re-aligned when I got a leveling kit for it and I added a steering stabilizer and it runs great on dirt. My wife's 2023 suburban 3.0L however was a nightmare the first 6 months of ownership and the GM strike didn't help, but they finally got all the kinks worked out in November. Bottom line, that brake issue you have is NOT okay. Thats a safety issue and GM needs to fix that ASAP. Make sure the dealer pushes the GM tech assistance on it. The other issues are annoying too, especially the rattle. My truck is tight with no body or engine/trans noise, so thats what you should expect too. Worse comes to worse, if the dealer can't get it straightend out ASAP I'd ask them to offer to buy/trade your vehicle in for what you paid for it...and if they don't bite, Lemon law it if you can.

Thanks TurboTime! I figured the priority got shifted a bit. For a short while If you filtered by vehicle the derringer was not listed as a product offering for 2024 L5Ps, hence a few of us may have gotten a little axious. Fantastic to hear it is still in development and heck everyone with a 2020+ L5P is going to see a nice bump in power with the updated module! Any news on timelines for the Ram-Air and Monster Exhaust offerings? Thanks again!

I have an aftermarket light bar plugged into my bed's 7 pin via an adapter on my 2024 LTZ. Most days when I start up my truck I have zero issues as it remembers the light bar as an accessory. However randomly the truck re-categorizes the accessory as a guest trailer. There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason why it randomly chooses to do this (its annoying more than anything). Has anyone seen this issue? Also, I've been having issues with Car Play connecting. Clearly the phone connects to the truck, but CarPlay can't connect. I've gotten around this by plugging the phone in, but again like the trailer issue above this seems to be at random. I've tried disconnecting and reconnecting the phone on the entertainment screen, but it still wont work. Would a complete software update help?

The silence is deafening...

Good to hear! I assume that goes for the Ram-Air as well? I've got my Boost Tubes, iDash and Throttle Monster installed, I can't wait to nab the Derringer and Ram-Air when they release (Exhaust and Diff Cover planned later down the road).

Correct. I've been running LASFIT for several months now on my 2500 with no issues.

I cant imagine a lot of people buy personal HD trucks yet alone work trucks based solely on engine stats. It boils down to the looks of the truck, brand loyalty, and especially price as the much bigger factors. Personally, I came from a Ford family and owned a two Fords in my younger years. But when it came time to replace my 1/2 ton with an HD 3/4 ton diesel truck I looked at the stickers of the F250 and Ram 2500 and the GM trucks sold themselves. I'm just not in mindset to pay an extra $25-30k for a similarly equipped truck. I have zero regrets about the decision as well, I love my '24 LTZ.

I had a gift card this Christmas for Rough Country and I did their Steering Stabilizer (V2). Like the Suspension Maxx design RC has the conventional shock, cross member sleeve and keyed washer on the control arm. With that said, I'll still give a nod to the Maxx as the better overall design imho...again I had 'free' money to burn. I did the stabilizer primarily for my wheel/tire upgrade I plan on doing at some point this year. I can say it's definitely a better ride than before, with the steering wheel holding more firmly to the road vs. feeling every pothole/uneven pavement section. It's an easy upgrade no matter what brand you do end up going with.

To revive this topic and change the subject a bit. With the revised Exhaust brake on the 2024 I find myself using it all the time because it 1) works great and 2) it requires less brake pressure on coast/gradual stops (like slowing on the off ramp, or slowing down approaching a light). Again its not a NEED as the rotors/brake liners are massive, but it certainly makes the truck feel more like a light truck with big brakes than a 3/4 ton when stopping. My question is: Is there a way to program/install a aftermarket module to keep the Exhaust Brake ON after every start (like the AutoStop disable module I installed on my wife's 3.0L)?

I have nothing to add, but I'd be very curious with what FOX recommends to remedy the noise. I have Fox's as well.

Just as an update...no aftermarket LED lights I've tried works with the 2023 Suburban. Bummer.

I took a look on their site and they have no data on anything after the 2020 model L5P...while this may be helpful for many mechanical items, it won't help with the refreshes they've done.