nickvrebel

My 2003 had a little whistle to it, it started within the first few hundred miles and still did it 8X,XXX miles later, never had a problem and didn't bother me enough to look you could inspect the a/c belt (the small one under the serpentine) for wear - there is not tensioner on the A/C belt for a 2008, it's a "stretch to fit" belt. The tensioner on the serpentine belt wouldn't have anything to do with this.

stab in the dark here: check ALL fuses related to not only the electronic trailer brake system but also those for the trailer - there are several under the hood in the fuse panel. Sounds like something is shorted out, if you grounded a wire that was hot then you either blew a fuse or screwed something up in the computer.

all of your old remotes will need to be reprogrammed in at the same time as the new ones. read the manual on how to program remotes, each time a new remote is to be learned it clears all remotes and you must relearn all of them.

check the plugs under the seat for a loose connection

the relays are under the seat. The seat has only one power wire feeding it, it gets distributed under the seat. There is no fuse on the power to the relay, that's what the circuit breaker is for. Pull the breaker and reinstall it and you should have power again. Chances are you have a short somewhere under your seat and it's tripping the breaker. Could be a bad wire, seat motor or seat heater.

I'm make some (educated) assumptions here, but it would explain what you found: *the fuse you are referring to, the 10a one: I can promise that 10a is not enough current to power a seat heater, most likely that fuse only powers the control circuit to the seat heater. It carries small amounts of power to activate a relay under the seat that turns on the seat heater *the breaker you pulled: it supplies all of the power to the seat motors and seat heaters, that's why it's 30a. ALSO, an automotive circuit breaker is designed to "trip" and stay in that state until power is removed, then it will reset itself and continue to function as long as power isn't overdrawn. This is unlike your house breakers that you go and turn off then back on, there is no switch on the automotive version. Some basic electrical to further explain: Switches rarely carry the full load of the item it is switching, it minimizes wiring size, weight and routing high amperage capability where it's not needed (no need for that much power to go in to your door panel control bank in the first place if it's coming back out). Instead millivolts are passed through the switch and those millivolts activate a relay that switches the big power. I have no idea why the other seat was still working unless you are mistaken and there is a separate breaker, I just don't know.

what are the symptoms? does it turn over? start then stop? security light on?

GMT-900 Front Parking Lights as DRLs: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...l=drl&st=30

my hitch height was just a little too short lol This is a 28' Gulfstream Cavalier, AKA a FEMA trailer. The truck really isn't overloaded, the bed has a decent amount of weight (concrete blocks, generator, etc.), it just looks bad b/c the hitch height is off so the nose of the trailer is pointing down. I pulled it that one time and parked it at the hunting lease, probably never pull it again.

I know it's a rubber mount on the trucks through at least the end of the GMT800, I don't know of any changes for the GMT900 (haven't looked personally)

it's very possible that the sound is coming from the transmission mount. I've seen a completely blown trans mount on a Firebird cause the catalytic converters to slap the underside of the body on the car, keep in mind that the whole motor and transmission assembly is held to the frame by three mounting points, two motor mounts and one transmission mount. The motor mounts limit the side to side movement of the assembly. With a bad transmission mount the motor and transmission and rock forward causing various components to make contact with things you wouldn't think they normally could. The transmission or exhaust could be making contact with the underside of the truck body.

if you can fit under the truck you don't need to jack it up, you will be able to just jack up the transmission like you suspect. there's really not much to it, just take out the bolts, support transmission with floor jack, swap mounts and reverse to install