Chevyguy85

My 09 is 11,100 or 11300 GVWR I can't remember which. Not sure what the GCWR is probably 20k or less. I think it found the curb weight saying it was 7k from the factory. Not sure how accurate that is but 900lbs of stuff added by me is completely believable. Just interesting that the new 2500 short beds are just as heavy as my loaded 3500 dually is all.

Good to know. I measured my '09 CC Dually and from nose to the hitch/head was about 22ft. It's interesting to see how much heavier these newer trucks have gotten though. Mine is 8100lbs (soon to gain a few more lbs with the bumpers that are going on it) with me and my usual load out. GM's new 2500 short beds are 8k "dry." Which means I'll probably be pushing 10k when I get a new truck.

The upfitter switches on the 2500/3500 are not install at the factory either. Either the dealer is nice and does it for you or you do it yourself. At least that's what I've gathered from this forum

Don't need a lift to rotate your tires. Jack stands and a floor jack have worked just fine rotating my dually. Also don't forget about oil rebates to save even more. Both Mobile and Shell have rebates. I was buying 10 gallons of oil for under $100 which is good enough for 4 oil changes. Figured out it's even cheaper not buying 5 gallon buckets on sale from autozone/orielly's and next time I need oil I'll be getting gallon jugs from walmart and using Mobile's rebates that way. Or you can buy the oil and filter yourself and bring it with you to the dealership. I think they'd charge me $10 just for the labor, that was worth it when I wanted to be lazy.

Bumper pieces and new lights came in the week before Thanksgiving. Hopefully my buddy will be able to weld them together and install around the end of this month. I'll need to get them powder coated as well. I'm interested to see how much of a difference I'll see going from about 18w pod lights to 40w. I think we'll be removing the little light bars from behind the grill too. Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk

https://www.chewy.com/petsafe-happy-ride-quilted-bench-car/dp/135509 This has worked for me so far. Been almost a month. Covers the back seat of my '09 crew cab just fine. Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk

Good to know. I think I've only been building Sierra 3500 duallies. Not that it matters hopefully I can make my current pickup last another 5ish years or so.

Can't get an 8ft bed though so that's a no go for me, well any 1500 is a no go for me. Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk

The way they all force you to buy stuff you don't want in order to get the 1 or 2 things you do want is annoying. One of the reasons I haven't bought a new truck. Sadly it's only going to get worse. Is there even an option to not get a sliding back glass on a LTZ even? Every build I do it automatically adds that stupid thing. By the time I get a new truck it'll probably be the same way with sunroofs.

Don't forget when buying powder/primers online you pay a hazmat fee ($20?) on top of the regular shipping fee. Used to be 70lbs was the max per order. My friends and I would all buy together if we ended up buying online. Used to go to the gun shows and buy supplies too until they got too commercialized and annoying, not to mention the increase in admission fee.

If you can afford it go for the 3500 SRW. Always nice to have extra capacity for little if any empty ride impact. Personally I'll never go back to a short bed and going from a crew cab 2500 short bed to a crew cab dually wasn't as huge of a deal as everyone seems to make it out to be. Maybe the fact that I avoid cities by default helps but yeah. With a dually I'm guaranteed an 8ft bed. So would I choose a 3500 SRW 8ft over a 2500 short bed? Yes, every single time if given the choice. You already said you'd use the 8ft bed on a regular basis so you answered your own question

I keep hearing cases need to be trimmed regardless of pistol or rifle but personally I have yet to trim any pistol cases. If I was doing extreme accuracy competitions or something maybe but in the however many tens of thousands of reloads myself and 2 friends have done we have yet to trim pistol cases. Just the way I was taught. Over the years some people have found it shocking that I don't trim but again having had zero problems and no need for extreme accuracy I don't bother. My handloads have more consistent FPS vs factory loadings, even defensive loadings. If you want to trim feel free though. Might end up trying to trim 9mm cases but I think it's my cast projectiles that are causing in flight instability seeing as how I didn't have problems with any other projectile I've used over the years.

I don't even do rifle yet ? It is fun to say I have a 6ft section of a bowling alley lane as a reloading/work bench though ?

Don't worry. It can't possibly get out of control and take up lots of room.... Not pictured is my actual reloading bench (it's a mess), the stash of wheel weight ingots I made nor the 2-3k lbs of wheel weights on the side of the house waiting to be melted down. ? Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk

For simplicity I've been using Bullseye powder for all my pistol calibers for 10 something years. It's not the best "beginner" powder to use, but it's what I started on, because it uses very little powder and is easy to double charge without over filling the case. The fact that it uses less powder makes it more economical as well though. .380, 9mm, 38spl, 357, 45acp, 44 spl, 44 mag, and .40 are what I've been using it for. It's not good for a hot magnum load but it'll get you to the watered down factory mag loads easily. Unfortunately like you're finding out now is not a good time to get into anything gun related as everything seems to be out of stock or if in stock priced astronomically. Reloading manuals as suggested a few times above, get a couple. Never had a problem with using cast projectiles that were done by someone else. My own cast projectiles work great, other than my 9mm which I need to trouble shoot still (tumble/key hole). I haven't bought components in years so I couldn't begin to tell you where to go nowadays. If you've got Glocks with the Glock proprietary rifling then you'll want plated projectiles, hard cast may work. If you're using an aftermarket barrel then you're good to go. There might be local classes, check with local gun stores or reloading supply stores. I've never heard of them but they've got to be there somewhere. Nothing else you can search youtube or the gun alternative to youtube that I can't think of right now since youtube might actually not allow reloading videos. I'd also invest in a chronograph, while it won't tell you if you're over pressuring, you'll be able to see if you're within projectile FPS specs while working up loads. They're also good if you want to get into competitions where you really try to game them by getting right down to that power level floor. You'll have to list what's in the kit for us to tell you what you're missing though.