Chevyguy85

Dang it takes that long for some stuff to be added to netflix? Been on my HDD for 5 months, thanks for the review hopefully I'll get around to watching it one day.

Must have been what I saw yesterday then. Highly doubt I saw a 2020 HD. Sent from my Find7 using Tapatalk

Do any of the 2019 silverado say Chevrolet on the front grill or is that the 2020 HDs only? Sent from my Find7 using Tapatalk

Yep had my rear diff rebuilt, everything but the ring gear I think. 84ishk on it. That was just a couple months ago, along with all the other repairs done during the 2 months the dealer had my truck. Today drove to Gainesville, supposed to be 2 hour trip but the turnpike and I75 wanted me to take over 3 hours instead. I have 1k or more in wheel weights sitting right at the tailgate, truck rode smooth minus that dang shimmy/shake that only I can feel. Leaf pack is making a little bit of noise, probably one of the few times they've been worked. DIC is saying I got 17 mpg, probably could have hit 18 w/o traffic. Not too shabby for over 9k lbs and 10 year old truck. I guess I lose more mpg doing 80-95mph than I thought vs 69 mph. Also my buddy forgot his tent so my bed has his air mattress and some tarps for a tent, can't do that with these new tiny cars. Sent from my Find7 using Tapatalk

I'm not sure it's the tires. Tried beads before and then tried double the recommended amount per the suggestion of the bead manufacturer. I don't remember how much time passed between the beads and the tires being declared bad. Whatever it is causing the issue goes away and then comes back within a few hundred miles of something being done to the truck. At this point I'm just waiting for all the 2020s to come out and I'll see if I like something from any of the 3. Seems like they're all pretty much the same from a reliability and crap dealership service standpoint. F450 seems to keep being thought about. Probably won't be thrilled with the tires on it though and I don't want to know the hassle it's going to be getting that thing serviced. I'm not going to torch the stabilizer off its pretty much new condition still. I couldn't fit an air tool in the space. Maybe if I pulled the plastic skid plate off, but even then I don't think so. Just wanted to see if that's what was causing the pull. Reviews on multiple sites had people saying their vehicle started to pull after installing that bilistein stabilizer. I had the truck aligned last year, it wasn't off very much for its first alignment that had been done on it, had seventy something thousand at the time. Alignment I think is probably closer to $100, if I had a car I could get it done for $50 or less. Problem for me isn't paying for the alignment it's finding someone to pay who can do the job. What I did today: Valve stem replaced, place didn't even charge me. I'm glad I was taught to check stuff before a trip, driving to Gainesville Friday. I am curious how long it had been flat though. Sent from my Find7 using Tapatalk

Tried to take the steering stabilizer off to see if that's what's making my truck pull. I guess we messed up the locking nut putting it on, I can't get it off so I just put it back on and I'll deal with it. Eventually I'll get another alignment done when I find a shop that can fit my truck and that I don't hate. Checked the air pressure in my tires, fronts were at 65 like they were supposed to be, dropped them down to 60. 3 rears were at 70 (supposed to be 60) dropped those 3 down to 55. One was flat, (driver rear outer) I don't know how long it's been flat and the tire shows no visible damage. At first I thought it was the core so I pulled that out and put it back in, nope. Looks like the valve stem either isn't seated properly or went bad, all the air is leaking out from there. So tomorrow I'll wake up early and get that fixed before work.

So you'd think a Ford dealership who services RVs would have a large enough alignment setup to align my truck...nope. No one on my side of town has a setup that will fit my truck (that I've called or been to) and I don't want to go to the one on the other side of town because they quoted me a price for balancing tires on the phone and then the next day charged me more which with 6 tires came out to a $20+ difference. Too much city around here.

https://dashcamtalk.com/ is a good resource too. There are reviews and the forums have a bunch of people who test out or review dash cams too. Some even tweak official firmwares to get "better" results in their footage.

Yeah unfortunately I get more reactions scaring the crap out of my co-workers with my horns than I do from traffic. I normally try to see the bottom of the rear tires of the vehicle in front of me which is probably half to one truck length. As long as I have room to maneuver around I'm good. If they can hit me hard enough to shove 8k into the car in front of me I've got other problems. I have a Viofo A119s and it works great. Too much distance behind me to bother with a rear facing camera. One day I'll get around to making a new youtube channel just to post the dash cam vids I have. Some of the stuff I have I was so thrown off at their stupidity I didn't even hit the horns. I put the videos on FB and my friends laugh at them or are shocked.

I just leave my hitch in all the time. If they want to be stupid, they can kiss that. This current one is the only one that hasn't been "broken in" properly, only a matter of time though. I want new bumpers so I toy with the idea of taking the hitch off I did change out all my bulbs for LEDs so that might help me a little? @jaxcam02 Horns don't do as much as you'd think. I get more fingers because of my air horns than people moving out of the way or waking up at green lights. Even when I do a polite honk.

I ended up just getting a 1/2" rubber end thing from O'reilly's and I'm good with that. Thanks though.

I've gone 0% and over 8k on occasions. I normally try to not go under 10% or 5-7k miles

Never said anyone was using it or not, or if something is overkill. I just found it interesting that in order to hit max tow numbers manuals say WD setup needs to be used. Ford changed this in the last couple years, I don't know if GM has or not. Fully loaded out my boat and trailer will probably end up being over 12k and yet the trailer maker says not to use WD setup.

Knobs and electric shifting things are great and all for those that want them. I tried helping some kid with a BMW at a gas station, his electronics were going haywire. I was going to push him into a parking spot so he wasn't sitting at the pump while he waited for the tow truck. We couldn't shift the car into neutral to move it between the push button start not working and the "gamer" electronic floor shifter thingie. Granted there might be some override buried in the manual to shift when nothing is working, but I wasn't about to go that route.

Weights you need to pay attention to are tongue weight which goes towards your trucks gross weight, trailer/boat combination total weight, and truck trailer combined gross. If you go over any of those you're over. With half tons you usually hit truck gross first. Your manual will tell you the different weight limits and the door jamb sticker will have a couple as well. Some trailer makers specifically state not to use WD setups. Mine says not to even though someone in the last 30 years welded part of a system onto the trailer. There are WD/sway controls that are made to work with surge brakes. Boats seem to be a catch 22 when it comes to towing. Used to be in order to hit the max numbers for your truck you had to have a WD setup. That's why there are 2 numbers when towing with and without WD. The catch comes in when the boat trailers state not to use WD setup.