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THE YETI

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  • Name
    JP
  • Location
    Sask
  • Drives
    2021 Chevy Silverado 3500HD DRW 6.6L V8 Gas

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  1. Post above is exactly right. My truck had the split bench seating up front and I just partially removed the panel amd it gave enough room to connect to the switch without completely removing it.
  2. I'm not 100% sure on what your exactly talking about. BUT if you mean the connector that plugs in to the back of the switch in the knee bolster. It's included in some bubble wrap and you install the provided wire to that connector after running through the firewall then plug er' in n go. I installed this with ease in no time at all and I think of myself as electrically illiterate. You don't have to remove rhe switch panel deal to install anything. Although I'm sure it more than likely is possible.
  3. I'm just wondring, can I get a setup so I can install some fuses or a fuse on the battery of my LBZ (06' 2500HD) similar to the fuse for the plow with this kit? Im installing a winch on the 06 and some other things and this style set up would be clean ...
  4. Hmm i installed mine all and see the lights will light up when i press a button. Have yet to wire anything to them. I assumed I would be good to go when I do. Keep us posted as you check it out going forward here. Fwiw. I dont believe my switches light up with the headlights. But I've never specifically took note of that. Maybe I'll check it out if they do when i manual turn the headlights on.
  5. I'm far from an expert and don't claim to be in any way whatsoever. But, don't you just wire power from whatever accessory you are installing to the wire from whichever switch/button you choose. Then ground that accessory in a nearby accessible spot?
  6. Go in to your setting and do a FULL FACTORY RESET. Save yourself a trip to the dealer.
  7. Lol the dealer couldn't figure out where the fuses went AND told you that too? Like a legit Chevy dealer told you that? F#%@ Me. Lol. They go in the fuse box. Installed mine myself recently and ill admit I did skim through a utūb vid before doing it but it was pretty obvious once you get going where they went. I can turn wrenches as good as the next guy but Im far from a journeyman mechanic fwiw as well. Sorry I cant search for the info for you at the moment my connection is hit or miss.
  8. Mines held since my post on September 7th. Should've took the few seconds to do this a longtime ago. Im sure it wouldve been at my local dealer for hours amd returned unchanged if I told them about it.
  9. That would make more sense. Lol Figure anything else out in the meantime? I'm guessing maybe its been drivable since I last stopped in here?
  10. 5 hours and 47000kms. Crazy. That truck is fast. I would suggest taking that ****** right back to the dealer you got it from . If you got a smoking deal and paid cash for an under the table no warranty vehicle then scan for codes. Haven't heard of crazy flooding like down south up here so maybe a VIN search can help with any claims that you may not find out from a dealer VIN search. To me if it was a purchase from a business though sounds like I would have it fixed ASAP or my cash back, PERIOD.
  11. Well I finally did the install. Got the truck may 27th of this year and had the "kit" sitting under the center seat storage waiting for ambition to build. Took 5-10 mins to run the wire along the firewall and into the cab. A little time to take the dash apart and put back together. Was pretty straight forward thanks to your post. Hardest part was definately the 2 screws to mount the fusebox. I was lucky to have some extra torx screws from a mudflap install when replacing the plastic molding deal at the time(think thats where they came from) so swapped out the hex heads for that spot and used the torx for an easily accessible spot. Underhood bit to attach the wire n fuses took maybe a minute or 2. Just wanted to say thanks for the write up. This (and a ūtūb vid helped for the fuses and stud placement, including plow studs. Its simple after seeing). I need to think of something to wire up to the switches now. Damn. Thats gona be the hardest part now. Thanks again bud. Also FYI to anyone saying the zipties holding the loom that have the hole for the push pins to mount under the hood are too tight, they are, BUT. You can move them. Just use some patience (I'm known for having none myself but managed). You need to gently move kind of rocking each side back and forth and then twist it around the loom in the same direction the aluminum tape was wrapped around it. Little by little you will make some progress and have them positioned in the spot you need them at. Didn't really take all that long to do. Also i ended up drilling through the plastic in one area that didn't have a factory push pin. Drill from the bottom up and it take just 2 seconds using my Dewalt.
  12. That is 100% true. Not the same thing at all. Thanks for the link. That is some good informative reading for the Duramax guys.
  13. Exactly!!! And backwards compatible explains the rest. Or at the very least 1% of it , right. You gotta love these trucks and there clarification of fluids and specs outside of the factory choices right(I can only assume the other brands are similar at the very least too tho right.) You can believe, I've done many many hours of reading on fluids and fluid specs in my Duramax years since 2006ish among many other issues and whatnot. It is almost worse than a YouTube spiral. And much worse and expensive than clickbait in its worst form. True story.... but i digress.......
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