dsr611

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Currently in a 2011 3500HD Duramax dually. I've had it 5 years now...it belonged to my dad until he passed away. He got it new, with plans of going into the Hotshot business when he retired. 2 months after retiring, he passed away. FFD to now...I've been driving it since he passed. It has right at 150k on the clock and it has been T&D, along with having to have the TCM rebuilt. I've found myself reading more and more about the CP4 fuel pump failures and am about to the point of selling the truck before the pump decides to bite the bullet and upgrading to a newer truck. I've been looking at what few '23 models local dealers have left on the lot and '24 model Chevy 2500HDs. I tow a 48hp Kubota tractor and implements several times a year on a 24' gooseneck (20' + 4' dovetail) and have ben thinking of starting a side job with it on my 7 day off stretch at work. We also plan on getting either a travel trailer or 20'+ boat after my youngest graduates HS in May. Plan on staying with the Duramax but wouldnt have any objection of dropping down to the 6.6 gas burner What issues/problems are there with the 23-24 2500HD trucks? Haven't seen any incentives on the HD trucks either...any special financing or other incentives on them right now?

Yep...it doesn't matter which cylinder each coil pack goes on

They're the same generation of trucks so they should be compatible, but it's not as simple as taking one out and putting the other one in. Pretty sure the radio will have to be programmed to the truck's VIN

Depends on what you consider "pretty easily". I've changed several on my '10 and '11. You can pull the battery out and get to the bulbs without pulling the bumper and grill. You'll also have the windshield washer fluid tank neck in the way.

https://www.amazon.com/BANCHELLE-Storage-Holder-Garbage-Portable/dp/B0837VV4TJ/ref=sr_1_15?crid=28RPDPGJ3DOAY&keywords=coin+holder+for+car&qid=1686079137&sprefix=coin+holder%2Caps%2C108&sr=8-15 https://www.amazon.com/JoyTutus-Capacity-Universal-Compatible-Accessories/dp/B08QCRYDWT/ref=sr_1_42?crid=3784LR6R0YWSS&keywords=cup+holder+storage&qid=1686079049&sprefix=cup+holder+sto%2Caps%2C105&sr=8-42

Check for a blown fuse (if you don't have the owner's manual you can find a fuse block diagram online) Faulty brake switch Wiring in steering column

From the Hayne's manual https://haynes.com/en-us/tips-tutorials/1999-2007-chevy-silveradogmc-sierra-pickup-truck-and-related-suv-routine-maintenance Every 60,000 miles or 48 months, whichever comes first Change the manual transmission lubricant** Change the transfer case lubricant** Inspect the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve Change the differential lubricant** Replace the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve ** If operated under one or more of the following conditions, perform these procedures at half the recommended interval In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature is regularly above 90-degrees F (32-degrees C) In hilly or mountainous terrain Frequent trailer towing Frequent off road use or if the vehicle is driven through water

Anyone have a part # for the gasket under the hood vent/insert/scoop (whatever the fake "cowl" insert is called)? Noticed gasket on mine is deteriorated and missing in several places. It wouldn't surprise me one bit if GM doesn't offer it as a stand-alone part and it's only sold with the entire insert.

Got my TCM back from Xemodex over the weekend and put it back in yesterday. Have only driven about 25 miles on it so far, but it is shifting as smooth as it ever has. Got out and cleaned all the caked up pollen and bird crap (from sitting for the past 5+months) off of it today. Will be driving it back and forth to work the rest of the week to see how it's going to act, but if it is anything like the 25 or so miles I've put on it yesterday and today, I will recommend Xemodex to anyone that is needing their TCM repaired.

TCM is shot. Mine would do the same thing...it's also temperature dependent; tried to move it one day when it was warm and it wouldn't do anything...tried again a few days later when it was about 20° cooler and was able to drive it around the yard. My truck's been sitting in the yard collecting leaves, pollen, and bird ****** since November. If you're willing to spend upwards of $7500, you can find them on Ebay and several online performance stores. I sent mine off to Xemodex a couple weeks back and just got it back today (the 2 retainers holding it to the fan shroud broke pulling them out so I've got to find a couple of new ones tomorrow). They repair them for $1200 and reflash to your VIN...found them recommended on durmaxforum by several people. Hated to spend the $$$ on a repair, but it comes with a lifetime warranty. Spoke with 2 GM dealers here in town and they said they haven't heard anything about when new ones would be available.

Dead cell, bad alternator, parasitic draw from somewhere, battery could have been bad to begin with

Pulled the one on my '10 off after my wife snagged it on a parking bumper. If there was any MPG change it wasn't noticeable and never had any instances of overheating (truck towed my bass boat and utility trailer with my SxS regularly)

Check youtube...there's bound to be a few videos on replacing the gear(s)

Can't remember the years, but there was a time when the gears used to move the electric seats FWD/Backward were made of plastic and would strip out. Might want to check the drive motor gear(s) and see if they're stripped or broken

2000-2005

External leak is probably on the fitting(s) going through the firewall to the heater core. If you're getting antifreeze in your oil, you've got other issues you need to tackle before worrying about the heater core fittings. Sounds like you've got a head gasket leak or possibly a set of the notorious castech heads. Replacing the water pump won't help either of those situations.

Hauling time sensitive loads from one place to another. Could be a couple hundred miles away or cross country. Usually loads that aren't large enough to justify a semi to carry it https://www.truckdriverssalary.com/hot-shot-trucking-101/#:~:text=Hot shots%2C in their true form%2C are medium-duty,using their rigs to haul freight like this.

Curt T-connector is what you'll need

Very minimal difference in a brand new tire and a tire with just 4900 miles on it. My wife picked up a screw in the sidewall of one of the tires on her 20 4Runner when it had right at 5500 miles on it. Bought a new tire and had it mounted/balanaced and never had any issues with it in the 40000+ miles she put on it before wrecking and it being totaled

Drop the oil pan and replace the pickup tube O-ring. Had the same problem with my 05 Tahoe (same engine). Replaced the O-ring and oil pressure is back up to 40+ psi and lifter tick is gone. You're looking at about $40 for the oil pan gasket, $5 (if that much) for the pickup tube O-ring, and a few hours of your time.

Are you going to keep which vehicle you are trying to program a key for a secret or do you want us to just guess?

Fuse blown, bad relay,