Grumpy Tooch

I have a 2016 GMC Sierra 2500 SLT with BOSE system. I am looking to add a subwoofer and amp to the already existing system without disturbing it. I only want to ADD the subwoofer, not replace any of the existing system. I've found bunch sub enclosures (ebay) and kits that come with amp and wiring. This I've dine many times before but what I am not certain of, is what connector I would need for the stock head unit to allow me to connect another amp.. Or, are the provisions there already? I haven't opened up anything just yet. If anyone has done this or is planning and knows what i would need, greatly appreciated. I also would appreciate any links to other enclosures and equipment that would fit my rig. I know GM makes one for the newer trucks but i haven't been able to find one for my year.

You should read the beginning of the thread a little further. What i did was only use the trigger wires from the AUX switches, and run them to latching relays. One for each ON/OFF(2 per fixture) and the indicator light I just tied into the latching ON.

I know this is old , but i have 2016 and I was also wondering same. You said the dealer is only way update infotainment system for this year Sierra? I have android Auto capability and mostly works fine, only problem i have is with calls through bluetooth sometimes get stuck after ending the call. I have to either turn off Bluetooth or make call back and end it myself. I am thinking update software may help...

thats awesome, i wanted to do this as well. I did it on my '06, i have 16' now and I want to do it to this truck. It gave me better MPG, its less load on the engine, which gives little better performance. Definitely noticeable. I cant remember the company I got it from but it came with all wiring and a little unit that housed a relay and temp sensor with little dial. You could then adjust the sensor to turn on at whatever temperature you wanted. All the ones i see now like from Ebay just come with fans and thats it, so how does it know when to turn on i wonder?

I have been looking around for a thread or info on a Wheel hub free spin kit to replace the Unit Hub Bearings for my 2016 2500. Is it necessary? Besides the fact of it being rebuildable rather than buying new Hub assemblies every time, is it cost effective? Will it change the gas MPG? Is it stronger? I guess this is all moot if they dont make a kit in the first place lol. This is mainly for the guys with lift kits and larger tires like me, seems Unit Bearings goes lot quicker.

With the RC 4" SST kit i installed i had same issue, so i installed the aftermarket bumpers because it was so close, you could have just done that lol. They sell them on Amazon, called "low profile" upper control arm bump stops. its been so long i forgot even what was there originally. Was there anything there from the factory on these 2500's?

update: after installing the BDS 6.5" lift kit the wobble is gone. I suspect it was the shocks in part with the calipers i had already replaced.

I can only find the 2 wheel kit for front...they dont seem to offer a kit for all 4 corners. Which doesnt make sense as it is 4 wheel disk system

ok, Powerstop finally sent replacement rotors and front pads. Got new reman Powerstop calipers as well. Will do all this hopefully soon. ANd hopefully the issue will be solved

I have a thread started with something similar. I have this wobble mostly when i go over a bump and brake. It was really bad before i did my brakes. I did new rotors and pads, its better but not gone. I have gotten new calipers becasue I suspect it to be something with slide pins sticking. I have greased them and they look fine, but i have hard time turning wheel with truck up (spinning). It should spin freely. So i think when i go over bums and brake the fact they are already clamped some that they are having different rotations than each other and thus the wobble. After i change the calipers i will post back on my reply see if it was it. But i would check your calipers, and/or pins.

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Do these kits all come with 2 front caliper and 2 rear INNER lines? Crown you have to order rear caliper lines in addition to the kit. Why is this? Do other companies do this as well? Shouldn't a kit include ALL lines otherwise it defeats the purpose.

I have brand new full Powerstop kit installed (new rotors and pads) done couple weeks ago, pads are for Heavy tow so Ive never had an issue with them. Its more along the lines of caliper clamping the rotor. If i back off the pins and re tighten them, i can spin the wheel. after i test drive and try again, i cant spin wheel. Its like the pins are keeping the caliper to tight. I found set of reman Powerstop calipers on RockAuto for $50 each, I guess its good place to start. DO you really think the hoses could be it? In the past Ive gotten the braided stainless hoses, they give better feel and braking all together anyways. I dont think bleeding the system would do anything really.

I changed rotors and pads with Powerstop kit ive used on every truck ive owned without issues. I have not even 30k on old pads but they were wearing little uneven I noticed and i was getting wheel wobble bad when i stepped on brakes (before). Now after, they seem work good, no wobble but the calipers aeem to be clamped too tight all time. I cant even free spin wheel when jack front up. I thought it was the pins (they barely give you enough grease) so i removed all 4 used high quality ceramic brake parts lube and only snug them down not too tight. I was able to spin wheel better and seemed to work but after testing and jack front up I can barely spin the wheel. Seems the calipers are always clamping too much. I did not bleed brakes as I didnt open up the fluid system, could that be it? I am ready to change out the calipers maybe corrosion in by the pistons...

Im having a similar problem and I was going to suggest the slide pins need to be better lubed as the calipers were clamping while you drove. But you said you jacked up the truck and spun each front wheel freely? In my case i changed rotors and pads with Powerstop kit ive used on every truck ive owned without issues. I have not even 30k on old pads but they were wearing little uneven and i was getting wheel wobble bad. I thought it was the pins to so i removed all 4 used high quality ceramic brake parts lube and only snug them down not too tight. I was able to spin wheel better and seemed to work but after testing and jack front up I can barely spin the wheel. Seems the calipers are always clamping too much. Not trying to hijack your thread just giving little info

I am doing the same, have you ever figured out this? I actually just need to know the wire out by the bumper i can tie it in there (if i can get to it lol) You mentioned GN/WH wire , is this the color of the wire coming off the stock horns in the bumper?

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lol, well thanks for replying... I dont know what to do, Its like these two switches are reversed polarity for what their function used to be I suppose. But if i reverse the polarity to the harnness (which i am only using it for AUX 4) it may screw up the indicator light which is working fine. What i need is something to reverse the polarity before i get to the latching relay, because everything other than that works fine. I thought there were others here that got the exhaust brake swithc working for something else other than that function...

This is NOT something that resolves itself. As noted in bulletin PIC6220: It pretty much says GM is looking into the issue and there is nothing they can do about it. I had the dealer replace my camera and cable almost year ago, and it worked fine until i was plowing week ago and putting it into reverse a lot this message came back, and the picture quality is not the best as it was. Now its fine. It is something GM should have addressed by now and offered a fix at no charge. Any insight?

This is intermittent issue, As of now its been ok. If it is intermittent would it still be software issue?

How do you do the software update yourself? I had brought my truck is twice for it and they said it wasn't doing it, they've never seen it before and can't duplicate the issue. What a crock! Well before my warranty was up I brought it in for bunch little things and explained this to them again, showed pictures I took of the error message and it picture wasn't right. Mine still showed the picture and was operating but it had the error message on screen still. They ended up replacing the camera and cable which seemed to do the trick. I plow so I throw it in reverse a lot when I do, now it's been year or so and I'm experiencing same problem. Do you think there would be another update due? My warranty for this is up I think so I would have to do it myself. I am tech savvy so I could if its possible. Anyone know how? What was your fix and did it work? Thanks Gregg

Hello, I have posted this in this thread here but have not gotten any answers yet. I will assume its not being watched anymore, but i still would like some help if possible. I have done this successfuly 5 years ago when I got my truck, but only used AUX 1, AUX2, of the switch bank i installed. Now i want to utilize the last 2 AUX switches. The problem I have is that the switches are acting different tha n the other 2 i used, they have 12V+ initially and when the switch is depressed the power goes to zero. The other 2 switches are opposite this. It is the Exhaust brake switch on the end of the switch bank i am trying to use. If i set everything up same I have the problem of the light being on all time and not being able to be switched off. Not sure i can reverse the polarity on the exhaust brake harness since this is the only thing i am using it for, but it may affect the indicator light feed which is working fine. I am hoping to come up with a solution where i can maybe do something to the board with the latching relays or the feed from the switch which is 12v+, i need tis to be nothing when in relaxed position and 12v+ when pushed to turn on the latching relay. I hope this makes sense and i can get some insight from you guys. Thank you

So i guess no one is watching this thread anymore???

ok...guess this is a dead thread ?

How can i get pin 4 & 5 to work like AUX 1 & 2 did? The exhaust brake doesnt work like them. There is 12v+ initially, then when hit it it goes to zero volts. I dont know what CNG is but all i need it to do is turn on a latching relay when pressed, then turn off the relay when pressed again.