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Try unhooking the aftermarket harness from the factory harness and see what the drain is, perhaps something in the aftermarket harness or radio is bleeding voltage into someplace it shouldn't. Always been your truck? If not, look for any thing that probably shouldn't be there, under dash electronics wise. A wiring diagram can be your friend here, if nothing else as a way to explain everything attached to the fuse(s) you pull to stop the drain.

"Eventually"? Minutes? Seconds? Several minutes? Just a few minutes? How are the subs wired? You are not exceeding the load the amp is designed for are you? Could be thermal or other amp protection kicking in. The amp feel fairly warm when this occurs?

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/107157-2010-usb/page-19 If that still doesn't illuminate the information you need, please look at (as of today at least) the second to last reply.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/107157-2010-usb/page-19

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/150953-adding-usb/?hl=usb+port&do=findComment&comment=1324974 http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/150700-installing-factory-usb-port/?hl=usb+port Seems like there have been some entries with pictures but with all the links returned by a search, I just picked the two above for the part numbers....

Loved working with QNX. I probably still have a QNX devel kit around here somewhere, but it will be very old. Like later 90's early 00's old. Last time I did anything with QNX was back then.

Certain years it is not that uncommon to have loose battery cables. Good idea to check all the ground and battery connections you can find on any vehicle with these sort of gremlins. You could also have a bad/failing battery that has a cell(s) problem and is shorting/dropping out when you hit a bump.

Normally I would look in the wiring in the door, thinking that perhaps someone was messing around in there (changing speakers perhaps), knocked a connector apart or off and when they put it back on, reversed it. But after seeing your other posts, I am wondering how much 'work' has been done to this truck. You might want to start with a wiring diagram and work from that. .

Guess I should have added: Since the operation of the passenger operates backwards from what it is 'told' to do, it is safe to assume that it is not activating the proper limit switch for whatever direction it thinks it is travelling so the system keeps 'driving' the motor trying to make the limit switch so it knows the window is up or down. Since this can not happen with the motor being driven in the opposite direction, then the system drives the window track against the mechanical stop and the motor starts pulling too many amps and your circuit breaker trips. Once the circuit breaker elements cool/reset then the motor starts the same thing again, pulls too many amps since it is still against the mechanical stop and the breaker trips. Shake and repeat....with your radio power dropping out each time the window circuit pulls too many amps.

It is a circuit breaker. You have a problem with that passenger side window. It is causing the breaker to trip. Apparently every time it does it is reseting your radio, like you started your truck. Odd but with the current draw involved, possible.

Same receiver for the key fobs and tire pressure sensors. Since both the wireless doors/start are affected and the TPMS then it pretty much points to the module. Check fuses? Module shot (not that uncommon)? Going to have to take it to the pros or someone with an advanced enough scanner to talk to the RCDLR.

Dunno if this cool or not, but I found this link from this site in the first place: http://chevroletforum.com/forum/tahoe-suburban-25/2007-tahoe-add-amp-21865/ Would it still be applicable?

I want to be where you are at: "no other vehicles for thousands of acres". Sounds like a slice of heaven to me. I can get about 300+ acres or so away from nearest lane.

When I am checking fences I just leave the belt plugged in and sit on it.