Jump to content

PH-Wolf

Member
  • Posts

    75
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About PH-Wolf

  • Birthday 04/22/1980

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Name
    Horse Guy
  • Location
    S.E Wisconsin
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Spending time with my wife and my beautiful horses. I have two American Paint Horses. Horseback riding, camping, cuising around in my truck.
  • Drives
    2011 Chevrolet 1500W/T 4.3L V6, r/c, l/b, 4x2. 3.23(g80)

PH-Wolf's Achievements

Enthusiast

Enthusiast (3/11)

8

Reputation

  1. My 2011 Chevy Silverado has a total of 1,920.3 engine hours an 78,339 miles with a total of 3,831.8 gallons of fuel burned. Which gives me an overall average speed and fuel economy of 40.79 mph and 20.44 MPG over the life of the truck so far. On the 2006 2500HD I don't bother checking the hours anymore since the d.i.c resets itself.
  2. YES!! Always disconnect the battery before welding on any vehicle, especially when computer controlled.
  3. I also should of mentioned, I know with my truck if you replace the TPS sensor the engine will idle really high and you need reset it with a scan tool with a capably to do idle resets. That's what I've been told, so either way I would of had the dealer fix it. total bill was $260 for everything on my trunk. (Diagnostic/labor fee, Sensor replacement, reprogramming the ecm and resetting the idle.)
  4. I had that issue with my 2011 Chevrolet Silverado back in March 2013 when I had around 50,000 miles on my truck. Since I was out of town 8 hours from home, I limped it to a Chevy dealer. The tech found I had a faulty throttle position sensor. They replace the TPS sensor, reset the idle speed and reprogram the computer, as the invoice stated. I had two codes P2135 and P0121. I now have over 72,600 miles and never had the "reduced engine power" message or any throttle issues since.
  5. I stick with AC Delco air filters from my local Chevy dealer. Honestly I just stick with factory GM AC Delco filters/parts for my trucks/car now, as there good quality and I never had any issues with their filters/parts. The only thing I don't buy from GM is the engine oil an oil filter(Mobil One oil and filters)the rear diff fluid as well since the dealer want's just way, way too much per quart and Mobil One 90w gear oil is just as good, if not better. Wix filters(NAPA Gold) are also good quality filters as are Donaldson's brand(Donaldson are harder to find), FRAM higher end air filters are decent from what I hear people say but... I have no personal experience with them. I don't like FRAM basic air filters, as I've had issues with the seal separating on two filters for my 2001 Silverado 2500HD years ago.
  6. I had a similar thing happen to me with my 2011 Chevy Silverado 1500 4.3L V6. About 8 months ago (March 2013) I had about 52,000 miles on my truck at the time. My "Service Stabilitrack", "Service Traction Control" and a "Engine Power Is Reduced" messaged along with both SES and TCS lights on. I had really slow acceleration only about a 40 mph top speed, engine Idled rough, trans shifted harsh. I shut it down, checked under the hood. When I restarted the truck it ran/drove fine for another 80 miles and same issues again. Restarting it was not help this time, I Just limped it the rest of the few miles to my hotel. Then limped it to the Chevy Dealer in Springfield,IL in the morning where I was at the time for a Horse Fair. They listed the codes on my R/O as P0121 and P2135... both related to my failed Throttle Position Sensor(TPS). They replaced the TPS(with the new style TPS), reprogrammed the ECU and reset idle speed. They fixed my truck while I waited, that was really nice of them. Since I showed up outta the blue. I now have over 64,500 miles on my truck and I've never had that problem nor any other issue again, trucks been running great. My 2011 Chevy Silverado is way out of warranty and I didn't want any extended warranty when I bought her brand new. So the total bill for the Chevy Dealer to repair was $253 not bad IMO, since this was the first time I ever had any trouble with the truck. Glad to see your truck is fixed!! I was also glad it was a simple and quick fix on my truck.
  7. It should be under the Remote door lock option, there should be a selection under that option for: Off, Lights only, Horn only, Lights & Horn or No Change should be the selections with the DIC buttons.
  8. The round black cylinder looking thing with the wire is the EGR valve, I don't remember the year when GM got rid of the EGR system. I know my 2011 4.3L V6 don't have an EGR system on it. I'm glad cause that;s one less thing to deal with down the line. The 200 Blazer 4.3L is the L35 version. The difference between the LU3 in the 2003 and the L35 in the 2000 is a few things. The Cam is different the LU3 had a 'Quite Cam' the cam lobes were shaped different to stay in contact with the lifter longer and ramp down slowly. This was to help with vibration and reduce the amount of valve train noise. The L35 had the older version of the cam. Net was the Fuel system, The 2000's L35's fuel system: Had six centrally mounted injectors and used poppet valves at each intake port, called the SCPI (Sequential Central Port Injection). The 2003's LU3 had a MPI (Multipoint Fuel-Injection) with six Multec II fuel injectors mounted at each intake port on the lower manifold. Commonly referred to as a "Spider Injector" cause it looked like a spider, the whole injection system in mounted under the plastic upper intake plenum. The 2000 also had the same power output (190hp/250Lb-Ft torque) When it comes to issues with the 2000 model year: Yes the intake issue could happen and I know it can bee hard to see with the very tight engine bay with the 4.3L shoehorned in there. -If it's leaking externally you could check the back side of the engine for any signs of leaking, look for coolant traces on the trans bell-housing and trailing along the engine to the sides, Same with the front of the engine. If the oil hadn't been changed in a while, pull the dipstick and check for "milky" looking oil. Also you can check the bottom side of the oil fill cap and look for any grayish/brownish cruddy buildup. This could be a sign of an internal leak. The oil cap check is not the best due too if the truck was used for short trips allot. You will get the same build up cause the engine will not get hot enough long enough to burn out the moisture build up inside of the engines crankcase. Also check for low coolant, these can be hard cause if the person selling, changed the oil, washed the engine really well could have washed away any signs. If the truck has a far amount of mileage on it the intakes might have been changed already. I have seen 4.3's go over 150,000 miles with no intake leaks and if repaired with the new updated gasket kit and done right!! i.e gasket surfaces pred'd(cleaned) and all the bolts torqued to spec. You most likely will not face this issues again. The other thing is with the SCPI the fuel injector unit is known to develop fuel leaks over time. One place is at the FPR(Fuel Pressure Regulator) which is mounted to the SCPI's injector unit body under the upper intake plenum, same goes with the fuel line that lead from injector to the poppet valve. Poppets to can become plugged with carbon or even debree from the fuel too over time. Especially if the owner used poor quality fuel and never changed the fuel filter. If the SCPI unit is leaking bad enough you usually get poor running, bad MPG, SES light. I check for a bad SCPI if suspect by removing the air intake tube from the throttle body. Open the throttle valve and use my small led flash light and my small mechanics mirror(if needed) and peer inside the intake. On the EGR 4.3 especially the inside of the intakes are dirty covered in soot and blowby from the PCV system. Fuel is a good cleaning solvent so it will clean the area when its leaking. So if I see a really wet intake and a nice clean spot you know the SCPI is leaking. The small mirror I use if I need to peer into the back of the intake. You can by a updated replacement injector unit with a modern MPI like the LU3's have. No more issues for a LONG time with the MPI's unless the truck is neglected(like poor quality fuel and not changing fuel filter) These are the two most common issues with the 4.3;s that I know about and have seen, other stuff pops up hear and there, like sensors etc. but that's no different than any other engine. THe fuel injector unit is an easy change, the intake is more involved but can be done if your mechanically inclined and have the proper tools and torque specs. All these issues I know were solved for the newer 4.3L's the only issues I had with mine and I have nearly 60,000 miles on my 2011 Silverado 4.3L V6 is with the TPS(throttle position sensor) failed on mine. GM used this same sensor on a lot of different engines. I have the electronic throttle and no throttle cable on my engine. Sorry it took a bit to replay, having internet issues at my house last night.
  9. Never heard the 4.3L V6 referred to as a "Series 2" only the 3.8L V6 "Buick Engine" There were Pre-Vortec and Vortec versions of the 4.3L V6 throughout it's history. The 4.3L V6 saw many changes throughout it's long running history. It's based on the 350 V8 with the # 3 and #6 Cylinders removed basically. It came to life for the 1985 model year so it has a LONG history. I think it holds a record for a production engine in the USA, based on how long it's been in production. From, the not so smooth idler carb'd, non-balanced shafted version to my current LU3 version with it's distributor-less ignition system, Multi-port returnless fuel injection and roller rockers/Roller lifters, better ECU's and sensors, etc.. Making it a smooth running more modern feeling engine. GM made MANY changes on this engine thoughout its history and the versions or as GM calls them RPO's were called: LB1, LB4, LU2, L35. LF6, LG3 and finally the Current and only one produced begin produced the LU3(GM made many changes to the LU3 also and just kept this RPO code rather then changing it). The Turbocharged version was also the LB4 but also included the RPO code ZR9. Your engine is the LU3 and If I remember correctly the 8th digit of your VIN should be a 'W', this version produced 190 HP @ 4,400rpm and 250 lb-ft torque @ 2,800rpm. in your truck. If you go to this Wikipedia link it has a bit more detailed information on the 4.3L V6 --> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_90-Degree_V6_engine#4.3L_.28262_CID.29 <-- IMO the 4.3L V6 hands down is the BEST 6 cylinder gas truck engine produced, yea I know It's not perfect and had its teething issues early on. Yeah It may lack the Horsepower at a mare 195 @ 4.600 RPM. Compared to some competitors current truck V6's with 300hp life Ford's 3.7L V6. It's just reliable/dependable, easy to work on/maintain in my truck(lots of room under the hood). Producing 265 Lb-Ft torque @ 2,800 rpm with a relatively flat torque curve too. The competitors V6's are not much better torque wise and at a higher RPM. The 4.3L is a true work horse engine, It's used in everything from cars, trucks, vans, even powering boats and in industrial applications like: forklifts, pumps, generators, ETC. yeah the other V6's will beat it in a drag race but this engine will be the one hauling them to the junk yard. So it makes up for what it lacks, IMO. Many are glad to see this engine gone for the 2014 model year, but it just goes to show you how great of and engine this is buy how long it survived begin able to pass the ever growing stricter emission and fuel economy standards. Fuel economy is good for me I average a bit over 20 MPG as I drive alot oh hi-way and country roads. Yeah the V8's could do the same MPG wise if driven with the same feather light foot and some say the 4.3L is a gas pig and it can be if you drive it hard. I get great fuel economy in mine and I'm happy!
  10. Wouldn't be the first car coming of the line leaking a little coolant due to a loose connection. so long j-ten-ner Yep, happen to me on my 2011. I noticed a couple drops of coolant on the ground when my truck had only 700 miles on it. I found the fitting on the intake manifold that connects the heater core hose loose. I just tightened it myself rather then take it in.
  11. My 2011 with the 4.3L V6 does the same thing, my temp gauge rides on 210 when it's up to temp normally. In hot weather if I'm idleing for a while (like stuck in traffic) my temp gauge will creep up past 210. Usually it will get nearly half way to the next line past 210 on the gauge and the fans will kick on. My trucks been that way since new and I now have over 58,100 miles, gm runs theses engines hotter to meet emissions. The highest temp I seen the trans is 197 degrees, I have the base W/T with no tow package so I have the trans cooler integrated in the radiator. I've been thinking on wiring the fans to a manual override switch to turn them on at will, since the fans are computer controlled. Bad thing about that is I'm thinking that will cause issues with the ECM but I'm not 100% sure. The other thing I was thinking was adding a pusher fan on the front of the rad(looks to be enough room) that I can turn on during long stopped traffic. Also going to be adding a sep. trans cooler, I do 90-95% hi-way/country road driving so I see very little stop and go an my trans runs cool. Still would like to lighten the load on the rad a bit.
  12. Same thing happened to my 2006 Chevrolet 2500HD. One day outta the blue I had 47 hours when the last time I check was over 800 hours.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.