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I just did a little bit more research, and it seems that this Avalanche is not a Global-A vehicle, because the charts seem to list several models that were Global-A starting in 2010, but the Avalanche is not on there. And even similar models such as the Silverado are not on the Global -A platform until later in 2013. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Yes, the 2007 is a GMT 900. Originally I had ruled out computers/compatibility as a problem because I did not change over any computers, only the engine. I know that the motors are different codes, but it seems like the lmg to lc9 is a fairly common swap, at least from what I can read online. I'm using all the wiring and sensors from the 2010 vehicle, as well as the computers (the only exception to that being the MAP sensor).

Real Truck handles the warranty via GM. We don't submit a warranty claim with GM, we have to submit it with Real Truck with a specific email/phone number. Real Truck determines if the issue is covered or not based on the issue and pictures submitted.

Some clarification may help with some of these issues. - Rev Industries is/was the division of BAK (now Realtruck) that makes covers under the OEM names. So if you see one with a Ford logo on it, or if you are buying the GM Accessories cover, you are essentially buying a BAK G2 cover with different branding. - Rev Industries now markets under RealTruck "Advantage." - As of May 1, 2025, the Advantage covers now have a 5 year warranty. Anything before that was a 36/36K warranty. - Parts for the covers are available from Realtruck or BAK. The email address to reach them is [email protected] or you can call them at 818-365-9000 - If the entire cover has to be replaced, you have to go through your local GM dealer. Service dept opens an RO, notes the damage and submits it as a warranty claim. Keep your paperwork handy so they can confirm when you purchased it and it's within the warranty timeframe. Once the warranty claim is approved, Parts orders the replacement cover. When it arrives at the dealership, service will remove and install the new one for free as labor is included under warranty. - The Advantage covers are not the latest and greatest Gen 3 covers. They still use the old school clamps, elevator bolts, etc...If you want the newer technology, consider buying your cover in the aftermarket world. That way, if you have an issue you can deal directly with the manufacturer. - Finally, RealTruck has a program with many of their authorized dealers that doubles the warranty to 10 years if the authorized dealer does the install. Hope this helps.

Welcome to the group! My '22 just crossed 150K miles. Runs perfectly. Oil pump belt will be done in the next 30 days or so and onward hopefully for another 150K. Love the truck.

Still looks like a rivet to me in the pics, I don't see a nut and none of the pics show the head of the screw. But if you says so.....

Thanks for all the help so far! I did try right from 2026 right down to 2021, and only from 2023 down lets me select the option for tire psi change, but I get the vehicle not supported error! I'll definitely try it under Chevrolet after work today, and I'll get the sensor number from gm for my truck tire sensors. And I'll let you know if it works for me under Chevrolet! And if that doesn't work, I'm going to guess that what @Atlas said about maybe I have a different body control module could be true!

From where I'm sitting this sounds like a compatibility problem. I'm assuming the 2007 was a 900-series truck, and not an 800-series (they were sold side-by-side in dealerships that model year), since it starts and runs. This is why I HATE post-2006 vehicles. Everything becomes a huge problem when you try to keep the thing running for longer than the manufacturer has designed it to. I can't remember when Global-A architecture started - either '10 or '11. For your sake, you had better hope it's '11, or you're going to be spending some BIG money to correct this cluster-eff. That's something you need to find out before doing anything else. You may have several computers bricked ... but the fact that it runs tells me you MIGHT be ok here. EDIT: Just did a quick refresher. You're screwed. This is Global-A. The 2 systems are NOT compatible in the slightest. Once you get the correct engine in there that IS compatible, you're going to need to see how many computers are locked. Absolute NIGHTMARE to straighten out, too. Your buddy might be better off cutting his losses and finding something else. Welcome to post-2006 vehicle electronics. This is why I quit the industry, and drive nothing built after 1994. This stuff takes all the fun out of wrenching!

Recently acquired new 2026 Silv. 1500 WT - L3B + 4WD, std cab + std bed, in (duh!) Sierra White. Upgrades: replaced 'steelies' w/ Vision "Flow" black alloys, 17x8.5"; HDX nerf bar w/steps (black powdercoat); Weatherguard large/deep alloy saddle toolbox; Michelin fitted bedmat (sale, perfect fit) Weathertech door sill guards TBD: rear wheebox liners 4x black fender arch trim - searching for best (Putco: chrome only; not looking for flares either!) -Bill

True, hard to say what differences there may or may not be between Chev and GM as well as a production year or mid year part change either. I just found it odd that under the Sierra choice on the Autel that many of the last few years of production year did not include the choice of changing the tire pressure but if that is an Autel thing or a GM thing as to why the choices were not there. Knowing what tpms sensors are on the truck should give some guidance into which choices on the tool even make sense to try as I wouldn't give up just yet with the tool but I guess he will see what if anything he comes up with if he finds out a bit more info and tries a few more things on the Autel.

I'm sure if you went to a junkyard where you go in and pull the part off the truck yourself, not a used part place where they do it for you, you can get that part on it's own. Depending on if and what else you would be buying, and time of day, they might even just skip over adding it as a item to the bill.

No, we trade them like pokeman cards.

It would be sold as a "kit", lights + auth/programming code. You can resell the code to someone else, if they just buy the lights, either new or used, and they can then use the code to get them to work on their truck.

Apologies in advance, this is a long post, there's a lot to explain. A friend had a 2010 Avalanche with a 5.3 (LMG) that blew the head gaskets (amount other problems). He gave me a donor motor out of a 2007 suburban (LC9). I got it all installed, and everything hooked up. Went to go start it, and it stumbled a bit at first and died a couple times, but after trying a few times it sounded like it was running very well. Went out to go get some coolant, and came back the next day. Upon trying to start it, the truck will crank and fire normally and the RPMs will raise to around 1,200 or 1,500, sounding great, and then the RPMs will decrease and it will just die. Repeat that a dozen or two dozen times, and eventually it will fire and idle beautifully. As soon as you touch the throttle, it will start misfiring and sound like absolute trash. When you let off the throttle it will come down and hunt around shaking and misfiring like crazy. A message will come up on the dash saying reduced engine power. It is throwing codes for a map sensor circuit voltage High, as well as MAF sensor low frequency. With key on engine off, the map sensor reads about 4.8 volts on the vout pin, which the PCM interprets as about 17.8 PSI, contrasted to the barometer which my scan tool tells me reads about 13.5 PSI. However, once the engine starts and is idling this reading drops to about 5-6 PSI at a stable idle, and varies significantly when the engine is misfiring/ hunting like I said before. I should note that I used the intake and MAP sensor from the LC9 engine. I changed the connector on the 2010 harness to The 2007 connector. The pinouts for the sensors were printed right on the top, and I triple-checked that I put the correct wire into the correct place. On the other hand, the MAF sensor reads consistently 0.0 g/s regardless of State. I have pulled my hair out trying to figure out this last detail. I have tried three different sensors, (all of which should be good, one of which was new), I have verified all the wiring from the sensor going back to the PCM, and have verified that the readings at the PCM are the same readings as at the sensor itself. The intake air temperature sensor is also functioning as normal. I verified all the voltages and grounds etc, and everything is as it should be. I don't have an oscilloscope to verify, but I probed with my multimeter (Klein mm720) on frequency Mode, and it reads that on initial cranking, the maf is producing between 3000 and 7000 HZ, and as soon as the engine fires that falls off to below, 1000, and if the engine continues to run, it will produce somewhat erratic readings between 5 and 100-200 HZ. It does increase notably when the engine is revved despite the misfirings. As I said before, I have verified all of the wires going to the PCM, and I have tried multiple known good sensors. I've tested all the pins and voltages from the sensor and verified them against the manual that they are what they should be. I tested all the wiring for both ohms and voltage drop, and everything tested fine. Like I said I tested at the sensor as well as right at the PCM, everything checked out. The only other thing of note at least I think is the fact that the engine originally in the truck had VVT, but the engine I put in, the lc9, does not have VVT. I modified the cam sensor plug to work. I reference the wiring diagrams and double-checked that I modified the harness correctly to adapt it. There is obviously a code for the VVT solenoid, but I don't think that's the cause of my problems, and this friend will probably have the PCM sent off to tune out the codes at some point. I'm writing this for my bed so I don't recall the exact codes, but I'll update the post tomorrow morning with the exact codes. And ideas or feedback much appreciated.

It's possible the two trucks are using different body control modules which is why yours works and the OP's doesn't. So much in these newer vehicles depends on model/trim configurations, production date. They don't all use the same modules like back in the day.

I forgot to answer the question as per what market mine is set to and yes I finally found that area on mine and yes its also set to America. So here's something I realized as I wasn't looking at that part in the Sierra section until now, your right that what I see here as choice 3 under Sierra which says 07/2023-06/2026 ( 433 MHz 13542523 ) it has no choice 5 for tire pressure selection. Where as it does under the Chev choice. However I kept going down the list within the Sierra and I am really wondering if choice 9 will work for your truck as it has the same model number and hertz sensor as my truck. I would say try that choice first, if that doesn't work then jump over to the Chev section and again choose that same model and hertz choice as for some reason the Chev section gives the choice 5 of tire type/pressure selection for going back a number of years. Could very well be an Autel thing that they just didn't get the updates all done properly under Sierra but anyway first try that selection 9 I suggested under Sierra and then go from there.

Looking for this piece that holds the hose clamp in place. I have the hose clamp just not that other piece. Dealers and wrecking yards in my area will not sell just that piece. They want you to buy the whole air tube $100 +/- to get that $5 part. that piece isn't molded to the air tube as I looked at my friends truck. It's held on by a screw and nut. I'm trying to put the OEM parts on the truck as the previous owner butchered things up installing an aftermarket CAI. It really looked homemade. Thanks

Ok I missed that part that yours is a GM. The strange part is that the choice for year ranges and within the year of 2026 is different on the Sierra then on the Chev for some reason as I am looking at my tool at the Sierra choices. Now I am guessing you see as to your sensor part number as it may be different on your truck for some reason and a call to GM should get you the part model number of the sensors you should have as well as which MHz your sensors are. I know mine are the ones as per what I listed but there are other choices in the Autel and got me wondering if by some chance they put different ones in your truck. Having said that, did you try using each of the choices starting from No 1 and going on down the list, not sure if that would mean shutting off the engine each time and resetting the tool and going at it again each time. Also I thought of something else which may sound retarded but if there was some stupid chance that the chev choice would work. The reason I say that is that the Sierra is showing a range up to 06/2026 for the various choices of sensors it could be where as the Chev has one choice that has that 12/2026. By the way it is possible to not run the truck and you may know that as per not pressing the brake but pressing and holding the start button for a few seconds and it lights up the dash ( its called service mode ) but that sucks battery power and if it were me doing it that way I would be throwing on a decent sized battery charger before doing it that way as killing your battery won't make you happy at me at all !. Like I say, just a thought to try the Chev choices if you have already exhausted the Sierra choices but first it would be nice to know for sure what exact sensor model and hertz your truck uses as I assume only those choices that mention the sensor would work unless a choice that does not mention the sensor model would somehow work. Its frustrating when one is trying to use tools like this without the experience of the tool and the vehicle, as I am sure dealer techs themselves struggle with it when starting out or a new model year comes along that is slightly different.

I tried before I updated the scan tool just incase an update messed it up, but it never worked so I updated the scan tool and it still didn't work. Only difference is I click on Sierra not Chevrolet cause I have a Sierra. If I click on 2026-2024 I didn't have any option to change placard, when I click on 2023 it does give me the option but when I try to do it,.it says vehicle not supported! I have my region or market or whatever it is set to America I think, is that what yours is set to?

Its just that it worked on 2024 trucks on this forum and my 2025 model truck, unless GM did something since that point to screw up access or Autel has a bad update. I haven't had need to use my tool since last year when I did the changes to the placard pressure settings and since then I updated the software on my Autel but have not plugged into the OBD so hard to say if I would get a surprise as well. All I know last year when I bought the Autel I was warned to be sure to update it before I tried using the unit as they said who knows how long ago unit itself was actually manufactured as the software could be way out of date.

And so you had gone through the process of registering and updating the tool and so on ?. All I can say is that on the front page as the tool fires up you go to advanced mode, then vehicle model comes up and you choose Silverado ( not the DRW or EV since your a single rear wheel ) , then I think its choice 2 which is 07/2021 - 12/2026 ( 433mhz 13542523 ) as that is the series of tpms sensors and then go down to choice 5 which is tire type/pressure selection. Hit yes and it says to connect to OBD port and turn ignition on. Having said this, I updated the software in my tool lately and these year range choices look different from the past due to them doing some updates it would appear and I have not connected up to the OBD port since last year so hopefully I am not in for a surprise with them screwing up the software and that it won't work on my truck anymore either. So my question is, when you plugged into the OBD and started your truck it had that message on the Autel screen "vehicle not supported" ?. That does seem odd as tire shops would be pissed right off if hey can't use their tool on the model year after mine that in theory is supposed to be much the same truck ... unless GM did some change in the computer system to block certain things from access.

Understanding and using modern scan tools is its own body of knowledge. I had little hope that would work...programming access to the BCM is probably required and that is not easy for us consumers. Expensive scan tool, GM programming subscription, online authentication, etc. It also may be a matter of finding the right dealer to program it for you. Flashing a modern BCM might be a little too advanced for most tire shops.

Update for anyone following: Installed everything as shown in diagram. Opted for 8 AWG from Battery Positive to a 50A resettable inline breaker. 8 AWG is tied into to 2x 12 AWG wires feeding a 6 way fuse bus in parallel (manufacturer’s design of what I purchased). 4 of the 6 fuses available for circuits are tied to terminal 30 of each relay. I tied a jumper from one of my spare circuits off the bus to terminal 86 of each relay. The trigger, terminal 85, was pulled from my interior by way of T-Taps from the X61A-X5 pins 10, 11, 17 and 23. This was the hardest part of the job. Even with the X61A unbolted and the X5 removed - there was VERY little wiggle room. I added back up lights that I want to come on with my cargo lamp - but when I would check continuity between S48A-X1 pin 18 to its respective landing point on the X61A-X5 it triggers the factory relay… Instead I opted for a add-a-fuse on the passenger interior fuse panel (fuse location 10 - cargo lamp) and ran it through the boot on the driver side to my load. Did this to avoid introducing any electrical gremlins. Note: Please check for continuity between the S48A-X1 and the X61A-X5. In my case wire colours were not the same as other’s who have posted. To do a continuity check you need a Multimeter. Completely disassemble the S48A-X1 and remove the brown face plate off the X61A-X5 by way of a flat head screwdriver - this was the only way I could get any results. The outputs, terminal 87 of the relays, were fed into a junction box and landed at Individual studs and were labelled Aux 1-4. At this point, all you need to do is run wire to your loads and bring them to ground. I created a negative bus in the engine bay, all my negatives land here. For anyone having issues with all of your new aux switch lights coming on with the press of one - I noticed this only to be an issue when the battery wasn’t hooked up to my relays? No idea why, but it was quickly corrected by having my system buttoned up and functional.

Well I ordered the Autel ts508, and it won't work on my truck I tried all the 2023 and everything it just says vehicle not supported lol I'm able to send this unit back, so I'm going to do that, then I'll just stop into a some tire shops and if none of them are able to do it, I guess ill have to spend a bunch of money to get a good scanner..... Thanks GM lol

Don't need the air tube but that's how everyone sells them. Most places won't remove that one piece and sell it alone. No money to be made. Hoping someone swapped theirs out for a CAI and no longer wants it. Not asking anyone to give it away. Offering to buy it but I don't need the tube. It's held on by a hex head screw and nut. Been all over eBay.