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Not sure if this got posted yet but TFL got hp numbers. 5.7 is 400 hp 6.6 is 475 hp

Do not assume any updates apply to your vehicle. Maybe the best thing to do is, leave well enough alone. I was at the Cadillac dealer once for a system software update fix (not a recall) for a known issue with fuel gauge inaccuracy in some CTS+4. Supposed to take 30 min. but as I was talking to a person in the showroom I spotted them pushing my car outside. Just about then the SM came over and said, while we were running the update the cpu froze up and we have to get a new CPU. I'm getting you a loaner, we hope to have a new one over night and I 'll have them bring the car to you when its ready. Came in at 9am Thursday, left with a 4 yr. year old DTS and got my car back late Friday, good as new. I was under the 3yr B>B warranty. Imagine the cost if not covered by warranty?

Interesting information, thanks! I bought the ADC camera and it helped a bit but not dramatically so,

Just an interesting but boring piece of info. The camera being sold by ADC is the exact same camera sold by Camera Source. It even uses the same part number except Camera Source adds a CS- on the front. There were discussions a long time ago and I can't recall whether ADC is selling Camera Source cameras or Camera Source is selling ADC cameras. https://www.camerasource.com/products/2016-2018-sierra-silverado-hd-replacement-camera-cs-gmtrmod-16?variant=47619180101891&_pos=40&_fid=63889b968&_ss=c

Sounds to me like normal fuel injectors firing off. Mine has been the same for over 5 years.

For the transmission I just went with the TSB. Chevrolet TSB 21-NA-199.pdf

Well, I would suggest phoning up Rough Country and making sure it's right for your truck. Or at least going through their website to check it's compatibility.

Have you tried this option? ADC rear camera upgrade

Yes, GM's recommendation is to not flash updates for anything, unless the vehicle has a problem that the update is listed as fixing (this is for any module, not just the infotainment system).

I went with Borla Touring cat back exhaust. I thought about the ATAK but figured my neighbors might prefer a bit more quiet.

The Amp power steps are great! I've had them installed for quite some time. I do, however, have to replace the cushioned bump stops so I don't get a metal clunk when they deploy.

My truck didn't have a brake controller from factory so I had the dealer install this: Curt Spectrum trailer brake controller

Hello everyone, I have a 2020 Silverado 1500 RST with the Max Tow package, and I'm trying to confirm whether this lift kit is compatible with my truck: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07XLDTT4N?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title I’m scheduled to have it installed at a shop this Friday, but I’m starting to have some doubts about whether it’s the right kit for my truck. I’ve come across a few posts mentioning that certain lift kits may not work with the Max Tow package because of differences in the factory springs or suspension setup. Has anyone here installed this particular kit on a 2020 Silverado 1500 RST with the Max Tow package? I’d really appreciate any firsthand experience or advice on compatibility before I go ahead with the installation. Thanks in advance!

Just did an oil change on Dizzy. It's first batch of R&P 5W30 and a shot of the new Valvoline Fuel system cleaner. It was the inkiest, stinkiest batch of oil I've pulled out of that motor.

You will share, right?

Depending on what vintage of Jeep you have, you may have a new enough one that its an open element filter and with little effort pretty easy to examine or if older its a canister and cut it open. It would be interesting to see what if anything shows up on the filter media. What blows me away is watching some of these videos where the person says they are on the 4th oil change with R&P and there are still all sorts of pieces that look like flakes of build up that broke off inside the engine along with smaller particles layering up in the lower part of the filter pleats and the person is saying it looks a lot better than the first filters did ... like holy hell ! LOL. I wish I could get my hands on HPL if I ever chose to try it out but that seems to be a no go here in Canada, I am only guessing that the product gets sucked up so quick in the states that they have no reason to even contemplate having dealers and shipping to another country and all the bs associated with that.

Mama always said that if you’re gonna be dumb, you better be tough too.

Why not run both, you ask? Well I am. R&P 5w30 plus a quart of HPL EC40 has been in my Jeep for around 1500 miles. I’m not really trying to solve any problems, no measurable consumption or issues. Just figured at over 100k, most of it probably on shelf oils save for my ownership period…might as well do a general cleanup. As I see it the products target two different areas. R&P seems to target pistons/ rings. The ester based HPL may be better at general varnish type cleanup. Will be back on Red Line for the next run but will pull a UOA on the cleanup cocktail and see how things are interacting.

Chrome bumpers are cool.

It's perfect for me... Black A black 2027 Yukon on order

You definitely can’t shift that faster with a stick. My wife’s Acura only does 60 in 6.2 seconds. For an early 2000s car it’s a fast 4cylinder.

No stick in the RS3. It's 3.6 seconds 0-60, there's no time to shift manually. Too much interruption for the transfer of that kind of power. Our last S4 had the 7-speed dual clutch setup with the supercharged 6. That was a fast car and the DSG fired off lightning fast shifts, up and down. It's wasn't a manual but it was a different kind of fun. Point and hang on. DSG's have a manual mode and they shift as fast as you can click the paddle even when you want to skip multiple gears on a downshift.

If it has a stick I can have fun with it. When my wife first got her Acura years ago I used to tease her about it. I was only interested in muscle cars. They’re gone now. So once a month I drive the Acura. Every once in a while I’ll take it to Redline. But just normal driving on some twisty back roads usually does the trick.

I went through again with a test light and everything checked out. I suppose it could be the MAF itself but I've tried 3 different sensors, 2 of which were in running vehicles previously (the one in this truck, and the one in the donor truck), as well as a new one I picked up from NAPA. I would just be surprised if all 3 were bad. EDIT/UPDATE: I swapped in the MAP sensor that was originally with the 2010 PCM, that made the code for map sensor voltage high Go away, and the map sensor seems to read normal with key on engine off (14psi or so), but it still doesn't run and does the same thing as before.

In addition to a cell or wifi connection, the infotainment needs to be enabled to download software updates. That's a toggle within the system settings. But...if the truck was prevented from receiving updates in a past life, missing a bunch of updates may mean it won't go back and download all of those because they're not available or the system is too far out of date. If a formal recall depends on a software update, the recall for that truck remains in an open status until it's applied. The dealer would need to apply the software update in that instance. Most updates downloaded and applied via the infotainment aren't recalls/safety recalls, they're enhancements and usability fixes which aren't critical.