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did the 2022 battery drain issue ever get resolved? chasing similar gremlins in a 2021...

I put my black bear on to see if it pulled up any codes. No DTC found. When the shop checked there was no check engine lights either. I drove the truck around today and nothing popped up light or code wise. However, whatever plug in module the shop used could find codes just like the dealership could. I should of took pictures of the shops tablet to show what they see.

i guess that's.... no??:)

Would you supercharge the 6.2L on a 2021 GMC Yukon Denali XL with ProCharger?.... 605HP is the stated number without going crazy - it's not the LT4 682HP package, but I'm tempted to install it... This vehicle was ... not... recalled on the engine swap - but I don't really know if that means ...don't do it... or do it;) Maybe i should start a prediction market pool on it in case it blows up;) Any thoughts appreciated - I already OWN the supercharger - stopped the installation when the recall was announced and now it's taking up space in storage until I can solve an electrical issue with the vehicle... 4th GMC suburban-equivalent truck - I like them a lot - when they don't a) discharge their batteries randomly, or b) throw a rod at highway speeds;)

We tested the sleep mode with an ammeter in series with the negative battery terminal - 30amp fused - so we do know the actual shutdown and non-shutdown current draws and timing of the shutdown sequence. We just have no protocol information to determine what module is issuing the network keep alive.

TrueBlue...Even if you don't have that info stuff displayed, If Mr. Computer thinks there's something you should know about, it will pop up a warning message no matter what else is being displayed. I keep the speedometer displayed all the time, yet the brake pad message pops up anyway.

BTW, the 11.5amp draw is all the usual systems active - it's not a single draw - that's the "we're all awake" state of the vehicle - forinstance if the power steps are actuated, the draw will spike to 22amps for that operation. when the battery is disconnected and then reconnected, the vehicle shuts down that one time only - and we see a 10-15minute progression down 11.5 10.5 9. 8 6. 5. 1.6... 500ma... and then off to sleep at 40 milliamp... as expected. So we know it's a module that is simply refusing to allow the SDGM to proceed to the sleep state. We do NOT think it is the telematics VIM module - since we already duplicated the problem with the "VIM bypass" solution installed (we reverted that since it also disables the gmc app - but it does not appear that the telematics system is the culprit). We've replaced the rear heater control module, tested without the wireless charger, and the other modules on CAN Bus 5 - but still something is keeping us awake and removing X2 from SDGM allows sleep to proceed. We cannot diagnose from OBD since OBD drops off at about the 9volt level in sleep mode and we can't communicate with the vehicle - also we can't trace the SDGM internal packets from the OBD side - we have Autel Ultra. Any ideas on why disconnecting X2 would allow sleep to proceed appreciated. This is no longer a repair situation - this vehicie is simply unusable in this condition and NOBODY at GMC Dealer can even understand what it is doing. This is crazy. We made these systems too complex and now we're paying the price.

Did this ever get solved? I'm chasing 2021 Yukon Denali electrical issues - vehicle will not enter sleep mode - we can disconnect and reconnect the battery and it will sleep - but that's likely because we powered down whatever module doesn't correctly sleep. once we start/accessory the vehicle and turn off, it will stay at 11.5 amp draw with something keeping the SDGM alive - it appears to be activity on the X2 segment, specifically CAN FD Bus 5 - but we don't know which device and we think we've already isolated all of the devices on that segment - so what keeps the BCM and/or the SDGM alive is unknown. I don't yet have a packet trace from CAN 5 (and since this Global B we might not get much info from it) - but the vehicle has been down for 8 weeks and previously GMC Dealer was unable to resolve "kills battery" issues with this particular vehicle - so I'm at a loss - it seems to be beyond local repair capabilities - and the number of "telematics keeps vehicle from sleeping" posts indicates this whole architecture has major issues - I hate to say it, but we might have to install a battery cutoff switch on the front grill - one of those red boat switches - to turn off the vehicle.;) Any pointers appreciated;) I just bought a CAN FD interface and I'm planning to try Savvycan and Peak Can SW to triage this further.

Have had this truck for 7 years and it has 135,000 km on it. Have had no issues with it. Had 70,000 km when I bought it so I average about 9300km/year. The other day I started it to leave grocery store and felt a bad miss as I was pulling out of my stall. Rolled down window and heard the clatter. Limped it home about 1 mile and investigated further. Cylinder 6 misfire, check engine light flashing and I believe traction control light on. The flattering gave it away in my mind. I did try swapping plug, coil and wire from 6 to 4 hoping the moss would move to 4 but no luck. Also compression dropped to 120lb when cylinder 1 has over 200lbs. Called tow truck to tow to local GM dealer. Failed lifter and 1 bent pushrod. Dealer changing lifters and pushrods on 2,4,6,8 and also VLOM. Think it may be time to get rid of this truck when I pick it back up from dealer. Dealer told me they do about 2 of these repairs every month.

Yes, but the disablers for '22.5 and newer weren't available for a long time after '23. And then only by Range. This is the first I've heard of another company offering one. Just want to confirm it's a fact.

Nice! That would take years off my life keeping them that clean up here in MA. Between the rain and road salt, besides all the potholes that stay full of water, it never stops.

I turned AFM/DFM off on my 22 Silverado with a Range DFM Module: https://www.rangetechnology.com/products/afm-dfm_disabler/parts/RA007 Lou

So, that site says it will work on '23 and up 5.3 (and others). But as far as I think I knew, only Range tech had finally cracked the 23 and up ECM. Do you know if the Full Force disabler actually works on the newest motors and trucks? BTW, I for one appreciate your candidness. I've protected my truck by driving in L9 every time I've used it since I took delivery with 35 miles on the clock, and I'm the only one who drives it, so I'm as assured as I can be that a bad lifter isn't going to grenade my motor. But there are others who have not taken precautions, who could be saved by an honest appraisal of the situation.

If you can, you might try checking the fuel pressure going into the FPR w the key on, it should be over the listed pressure range. You might also check on charm.li (website) for the fuel pressure, it may be slightly different for the setup you have (with the FPR on the fuel rail). I think I read somewhere that it can be different from the later systems, like in my '04, where the FPR is part of the fuel pump itself.

Been tinkering over the last week or two cleaning my TRX up. Mainly underneath and inside. Just crossed the 5 year mark with it and I’m very happy with the condition I’ve kept it in, especially for a rust belt truck that lives outside 24/7/365. See, not everything needs to turn into a rusty piece of junk up here. But most stuff does.

UPDATE: Part Numbers Heated Steering Wheel: 23278632 Clock Spring: 23193462 Removed the heated steering wheel but left the clock spring in - Installed my original steering wheel to the new clock spring to see if the back lights work, and they do... Confused to the max. At this point, I think my game plan is to remove the switch assembly on the new steering wheel that manages the cluster and 3D print a blank insert to go in its place. As to the heated steering wheel portion - I will reinstall as I had it, where it was receiving constant power and not shutting off, but this time will add a switch in line and mount it near the head light knob. I'm done messing around with wiring and what not. Lesson learned - never buy a base model vehicle... Nothing but trouble when trying to customize or add higher trim upgrades. Honestly ridiculous.

Thanks for the reply. I’ve already replaced the fuel filter when I changed the pump. I’ve also already changed the regulator

you need to be a vendor before you post links to your business like in your sig.

If your truck has a vacuum line, that means it has the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. This also means there's a inline fuel filter along the inside of the frame rail, below the driver's seat. Maybe replace that and check FP again/.

When I bought my 14 GMC I turned it off with an handheld programmer. With my 16 Odyssey I left it on solely because I didn’t have much money in the vehicle. There’s a device to turn it off that’s a little more involved. The GMC at 72 MPH the deactivation was on very little the deference was 1/2 mile per gallon. The Odyssey is on over half the time at 72 mph.

Anyone ever thought about switching the interior door panels from the base model to the Denali style? I’ve seen that you basically have to cut, sand, mold, paint, the window switches together to get the look right. Is that the main reason people don’t bother doing the swap? Seems like the only method that is easy I guess, without having to mess around with wiring and stuff.

Replace the fuel pump with an OEM AC-Delco.

Hello, first time posting here. I have an 03 Chevy 1500HD with the 6 liter gas engine. The truck ran fine until the fuel pump died on me and had to get it towed. Replaced the fuel pump with a precision pump from O’rileys and changed the fuel filter while I was there. The truck will run and drive now but it wants to idle around 500 rpm when in drive and it tries to stall if you touch the gas. It drives fine though, just doesn’t want to idle. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and only have 50 psi. I guess these trucks should have 55-62 psi to run right. I thought the regulator might be the issue because when I would unplug the vacuum hose it jumped to 56 psi. Replaced the regulator and no change. The only thing I can think of is that I was sold a faulty fuel pump. Any help would be appreciated because I’d rather not have to take the bed off again if I don’t have too. Thank you!

I've been wrenching on GM trucks for 17 years. And I need to get something off my chest because it's been weighing on me for a long time. After all that time, all those motors, all those people standing in my bay, I've figured out there are really only two kinds of owners. The ones who already know about this. And the ones who are about to find out the hard way. A guy came into my shop a few weeks back in a 2018 Silverado 5.3. Sharp guy, maybe 35. Knew his truck cold. He'd been on the forums, read the threads, done his homework. He only rolled in so I could double-check a little module he'd already plugged in himself. Wanted a second set of eyes on it. Ten minutes, in and out, drove off happy. Two days later, a completely different story walked through the same door. Older fella this time, in a 2016 Sierra. Gorgeous truck, clearly babied, not a scratch on it. Wedding ring. Looked like a guy who took care of his stuff. He was in because his engine had started knocking on the way to work. And by the time I got the valve cover off, I already knew it was too late. Lifter collapsed. Cylinder 5. Camshaft chewed up. The whole top end shot. Same kind of truck. Same motor. Same roads, probably the same dealer. The only thing separating those two men was information. I've been at this since 2008, and I've worked on everything GM puts out. Silverados. Sierras. Tahoes. Yukons. Suburbans. Escalades. The 5.3 and the 6.2. Doesn't matter which badge is on the tailgate. They all carry the same problem. So here's the information one of those guys had and the other one didn't. It's called Active Fuel Management. AFM. GM started building it into their V6s and V8s back in 2007 to squeeze out a little better mileage on the highway. Maybe a mile or two a gallon. All to hit government fuel economy numbers. The way it works, the motor quietly shuts down half its cylinders when you're just cruising along. And the little lifters that pull that off have a tiny pin inside them that's constantly clicking in and out. Lock, unlock, lock, unlock. Hundreds of times a drive. Thousands of times a week. Eventually one of those pins wears through. The lifter drops. And it starts grinding the camshaft down like a chisel on butter. And what nobody tells you is that the shudder you feel around 40 or 50 mph? That's the system cycling. Every single time. Here's what really gets me. The pre-2007 trucks, the ones without AFM, they're bulletproof. I've got customers still daily driving them with 260,000 miles on the odometer. Not a problem in the world. GM took a perfectly good motor that would have lasted a lifetime and bolted this system onto it. And it is wrecking engines that should have run forever. The guys who hang around the forums already know all of this. So do the techs. They handled this years ago. They didn't sit around waiting for the dealership to mail them a warning letter, because that letter is never coming. It's the guys who figured somebody would've told them who end up on my lift. And I want to be clear, because this part matters. Maintenance has nothing to do with it. I've torn down motors with barely 30,000 miles on the clock. I pulled apart a Tahoe last summer with 24,000 on it. Practically a brand new truck. Owner had it less than a year. Spotless oil. Best synthetic money can buy, changed early every time. Made no difference. I've seen guys with full dealer records, every interval stamped. Made no difference. The oil changes were never the problem. The pin was. And no amount of babying that truck stops that pin from cycling every single time you drive. That's the part that eats at me. These are good motors. Take the AFM out of the equation and a 5.3 or a 6.2 will run 300,000 miles and never blink. So a few years ago I started telling every single owner who comes through my doors the exact same thing the smart guys already knew. Get yourself a FullForce disabler. It plugs right into the port under your dash. Couple of seconds and you're done. It just tells the computer to leave every cylinder running, full time. No more cycling. No more beating those lifters back and forth every time you turn the key. It doesn't reprogram anything. Doesn't touch your tune. And unplug it before a dealer visit and there's absolutely zero trace it was ever installed. I've had customers come back at 40,000, 60,000, 80,000 miles after I put one in. Zero issues. The trucks run smoother. And the lifters aren't getting beaten to death every single drive. I won't sit here and tell you it's magic. A lifter that's already damaged is a lifter that's already damaged, and this won't un-ring that bell. But it takes away the one thing causing all that wear in the first place. That's the whole game. You don't need a five-thousand-dollar delete. You don't need an expensive tune. You don't need to tear anything apart. You just need to stop the cycling. I'm not writing this for any company. I'm writing it because I'm tired of watching the guys who didn't know pay four and five figures for it. I'm tired of being the guy who has to break the news. I'm tired of knowing that the guys who did know fixed the whole thing for the price of a tank of gas, and the only difference was that somebody told them first. If you drive a Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, or Escalade from 2007 or newer with a V6 or V8, you've got AFM. You've got those lifters, and they're cycling every single time you drive. So be the guy who already knew. Not the one I'm scraping metal out of next month. EDIT: A bunch of folks asked, so here it is. The one I put my faith in is FullForce. This is where to find it: https://www.tryfullforce.com/products/fullforce™-afm-dfm-disabler They back it with a 60-day guarantee too. I've handed out more than I can count and not one's ever come back to me. Not one. See less