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There are no available updates in my settings, but the dealer can still flash the latest. They told me it was risky to force flash updates because if anything went wrong with the update that I'd be on the hook for the repair costs. They recommended just leaving it as is.

I put a set of the Eibach Pro Truck 2.0's on mine this past weekend. Lower bolts def was the trickiest part. Def leave the top bolts very loose, as in the nuts barely started. Have a jack under the LCA so you can move it up and down. One of mine I had to barely unclip one side of the spring nuts as to create the odd angle. With those spring nuts being fairly loose, and holes slotted, it can be done. Just have to keep at it. One note, I used a LONG extension with deep barrel socket on the inside nut on the passenger side, was able to reach it from the top. Swivel head ratcheting wrench on all the others. Couple of observations: sure seems like the rear lifted some, which I know sounds crazy since I kept the original leafs. I ran the front shock adjustments all the way up to the 137mm measurement. Unfortunately I didn't measure rear wheel arch height before. Front measure about 5/8" higher than before, but I'm sure it had settled some. Had 110,000 miles on the original Ranchos, I can't express how much better the ride is now.

If it's not put to normal and right, it won't be from lack of trying on your part. Or because you didn't spend the money that needed to be spent. You're committed and thorough for sure.

Just out of curiosity, why would there be no available updates if in fact updates had previously been available but not installed? Does a vehicle have to be under warranty to receive such updates?

Thanks. The wheel hub looks fine and no play when moving the tire. I tried to take the axel out but couldn't get it to budge off the front dif. It's to hot for this stuff, I need air conditioner in the garage. Lol

If there are updates/fixes you want, you could pay to have the updates applied by the dealer.

Hi all - my current truck is a 2022.5 1500 High Country 3.0. I bought the truck used last year. After doing some digging, I noticed that my truck's software is stuck on the original build from 2022. I have no available software updates. I talked to my dealer about this and they recommended not trying to force an update since the 36,000 mile warranty is expired. This is a big bummer since there have been many major releases since that have fixed small issues and improved speed/usability. For reference, the current software build number is: full_gminfo37_gb-user 10 W158E-W164.4.2-QIH22B-563.3 158 release-keys Has anyone had a similar experience? Should I just forget about it and move on, or try a different dealer?

Sure. Buy it for me

Using zip ties but 2-3 they snap due to sharp edges. Just using a shoestring. Last longer.

I ordered the Snap On...waiting for it to come in later this week or early next week. New front cover, new crank seal and new balancer are on. Water pump, pulley, fan, hoses, and plastics reinstalled. I can move forward knowing all my timing marks are dead on and the front engine is hopefully sealed better than it was. Take 2 with the water pump...trying high temp thread sealer on the lower bolts. Rebuilt injector and new-new regulator is in, it looks like new. Top intake reassembled and all the bits are reconnected and snugged down. Thinking about knock sensors again, I located both of mine and, there's your problem, Francis... The driver's side one is broke, plastic is bashed in, part of the wire is bare, and it appears to have been damaged like that for a long time. I saw the wire but didn't think anything of it. The knock sensor might not be my pulled timing issue, but it sure looks suspect. It must still be conducting, otherwise I'd expect a CEL. But perhaps with its sacred crystal inside exposed, jilted and dirty, maybe it's sending mixed signals. So I'm waiting for one of those and a new pigtail to come in. Pass side sensor looks good, except for the spark plug wire resting on it (!). The plug wires are healthy so it shouldn't be causing an issue, but I separated them and added zip ties to nearby looms to keep everything well apart. So, I'm down to installing a knock sensor AND, oh, replacing the exhaust and cat. I actually think that's going to be fairly easy, it's all bolt-together, all new stuff from Walker is laid out on the shop floor ready to go. Hopefully have this thing on the road again for the weekend. My luck? It will still be leaking oil, coolant, pulled timing, intermittent CEL for running rich, or it probably won't run at all -- because that's how this project has gone. I've never worked on a vehicle so ...hurt? ...cursed? in my life. Everything has been effed with SO HARD, but I think...knock on wood...I've managed to undo all the backyard stuff and we're almost reset back to "just" an 80k mile, 30 year old Blazer.

Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.

Would this be normal or a worn CV Shaft? 51K miles 3.5" lift? Boots are intact and no visible leaks showing. Attached is a the video I took. Thanks https://youtu.be/ZnW7PPRmjJY?feature=shared

If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not. You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM. Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.

You got that Hengst D110??

Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc. I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing. Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on. I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.) Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps. Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin.

Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol. Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet. Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working. I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting. I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY. I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground). Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal. Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power). Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return. Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85

Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc... It has to go through a dealer.

It is 4wd. shop told me it is the slip yoke. But not sure.

No, I did not tune out vvt. From what I read it should still be able to run without it, it'll just lose some torque/power. I can see how that would make it not run correctly, but why would that cause the faulty MAF readings? EDIT: I just ran a quick test and checked, and as I expected, the computer sees that the VVT cam phaser solenoid is not present, and throws a code for it, and does not try to change the cam angle at all. Commanded position just remains at zero, 100% of the time. This makes me think that the VVT is most likely not the cause of the problem though if anyone has a different/better explanation, I'm all ears. UPDATE: I was able to find that my scan tool does indeed support reading the frequency (hz) off of the MAF (I thought it wasn't supported but turns out I just didn't know where to look for it). I noticed that regardless of engine state it always however this Is not what I observed with my multimeter. Like I said before, the MAF seems to put out a normal signal during cranking and then the signal drops to a very erratic reading once the engine is running. It seems from what my scan tool is telling me that the ECM is not recognizing this at all, and just reads 0 Hz 100% of the time. This pushes me towards the the PCM itself is faulty. I I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle, which I may try to connect and program (it's only ~50 bucks to get the software for a one-time programming)

Did you tune out the VVT? 07-09 they did not have VVT. 2010-2013 they did. If you haven't tuned it, its trying to adjust cam timing.

GMT-900 is not Global A.

These show the problem and symptoms, and I explain things too. to clarify again, I did not change over any computers or wiring (with the exception of the map sensor). All of the computers and wiring are original to the 2010 vehicle video 1 - background info/explanation and part of the problem video 2, idle misfire I think the reason that the MAP sensor is reading High is because the engine is misfiring so there is less vacuum... Additionally there's a p0102 for the MAF low frequency, and a p0108 for the map high voltage. Again, apologies for the somewhat long-winded explanation, it's a rather difficult problem to explain without going into the details.

You'd want the Pulsar to be safe. That was the first product that worked for 10 speed trucks that they came out with. Range Technology 22451 Pulsar LT for 2019-2022 GM Gas Trucks That said, in the features description of the RA003B, it does list it working with 10 speeds. However there are reports that the RA003B can cause some drivability issues on early 10 speeds. So the Pulsar is the safest move IMO. Range Technology RA003B AFM/DFM Disabler Features: Range AFM/DFM Disabler keeps you in full power 100% of the time Simply plug into your onboard OBD-II port and it instantly begins working to eliminate the AFM system Disables Auto Start/Stop Blue LEDs The Range AFM/DFM Disabler does not reprogram factory ECU Works in hundreds of applications, 2007-2022, including 10-speed models. Leaves no trace, unplug it to return to factory settings Virtually no battery draw Fits all V6 and V8 General Motors (GM) active or dynamic fuel management vehicles, includes cars, trucks, and SUVs This device does not support the 2022.5+ Refresh model trucks or 2021+ SUVs To confirm your 2022 model truck is compatible with this unit, check your VIN. The 12th digit in an early model must be a '4' or lower Made in USA

I have a 2019 new body style high country with a 6.2l L87 and a 10 speed transmission code MQB. Looking for a disabler that is compatible. Most show it’s not. I watched a video on utube from Dons Life that says Ranges RA003B is compatible but when you go to Ranges website and check compatibility it only has a 8L90 trans listed which is an 8 speed. I don’t want to buy the wrong one. Anyone have any experience with this situation?

This actually happened. Be careful where you get your information re: gas price trends.