Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2019 new body style high country with a 6.2l L87 and a 10 speed transmission code MQB. Looking for a disabler that is compatible. Most show it’s not. I watched a video on utube from Dons Life that says Ranges RA003B is compatible but when you go to Ranges website and check compatibility it only has a 8L90 trans listed which is an 8 speed.  I don’t want to buy the wrong one. Anyone have any experience with this situation?

Posted (edited)
8 minutes ago, Oldgordo said:

I have a 2019 new body style high country with a 6.2l L87 and a 10 speed transmission code MQB. Looking for a disabler that is compatible. Most show it’s not. I watched a video on utube from Dons Life that says Ranges RA003B is compatible but when you go to Ranges website and check compatibility it only has a 8L90 trans listed which is an 8 speed.  I don’t want to buy the wrong one. Anyone have any experience with this situation?

 

 

You'd want the Pulsar to be safe.  That was the first product that worked for 10 speed trucks that they came out with.

 

Range Technology 22451 Pulsar LT for 2019-2022 GM Gas Trucks

 

 

That said, in the features description of the RA003B, it does list it working with 10 speeds.  However there are reports that the RA003B can cause some drivability issues on early 10 speeds.  So the Pulsar is the safest move IMO.   

 

Range Technology RA003B AFM/DFM Disabler

 

Features:

  • Range AFM/DFM Disabler keeps you in full power 100% of the time
  • Simply plug into your onboard OBD-II port and it instantly begins working to eliminate the AFM system
  • Disables Auto Start/Stop
  • Blue LEDs
  • The Range AFM/DFM Disabler does not reprogram factory ECU
  • Works in hundreds of applications, 2007-2022, including 10-speed models.
  • Leaves no trace, unplug it to return to factory settings
  • Virtually no battery draw
  • Fits all V6 and V8 General Motors (GM) active or dynamic fuel management vehicles, includes cars, trucks, and SUVs
  • This device does not support the 2022.5+ Refresh model trucks or 2021+ SUVs
  • To confirm your 2022 model truck is compatible with this unit, check your VIN. The 12th digit in an early model must be a '4' or lower
  • Made in USA
Edited by newdude

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   7 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,541 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi all - my current truck is a 2022.5 1500 High Country 3.0. I bought the truck used last year. After doing some digging, I noticed that my truck's software is stuck on the original build from 2022. I have no available software updates. I talked to my dealer about this and they recommended not trying to force an update since the 36,000 mile warranty is expired. This is a big bummer since there have been many major releases since that have fixed small issues and improved speed/usability.   For reference, the current software build number is: full_gminfo37_gb-user 10 W158E-W164.4.2-QIH22B-563.3 158 release-keys Has anyone had a similar experience? Should I just forget about it and move on, or try a different dealer?
    • Sure. Buy it for me 🤣
    • Using zip ties but 2-3 they snap due to sharp edges. Just using a shoestring. Last longer. 🤣
    • I ordered the Snap On...waiting for it to come in later this week or early next week.   New front cover, new crank seal and new balancer are on. Water pump, pulley, fan, hoses, and plastics reinstalled. I can move forward knowing all my timing marks are dead on and the front engine is hopefully sealed better than it was. Take 2 with the water pump...trying high temp thread sealer on the lower bolts.   Rebuilt injector and new-new regulator is in, it looks like new. Top intake reassembled and all the bits are reconnected and snugged down.   Thinking about knock sensors again, I located both of mine and, there's your problem, Francis... The driver's side one is broke, plastic is bashed in, part of the wire is bare, and it appears to have been damaged like that for a long time. I saw the wire but didn't think anything of it. The knock sensor might not be my pulled timing issue, but it sure looks suspect. It must still be conducting, otherwise I'd expect a CEL. But perhaps with its sacred crystal inside exposed, jilted and dirty, maybe it's sending mixed signals. So I'm waiting for one of those and a new pigtail to come in. Pass side sensor looks good, except for the spark plug wire resting on it (!). The plug wires are healthy so it shouldn't be causing an issue, but I separated them and added zip ties to nearby looms to keep everything well apart.   So, I'm down to installing a knock sensor AND, oh, replacing the exhaust and cat. I actually think that's going to be fairly easy, it's all bolt-together, all new stuff from Walker is laid out on the shop floor ready to go. Hopefully have this thing on the road again for the weekend.   My luck? It will still be leaking oil, coolant, pulled timing, intermittent CEL for running rich, or it probably won't run at all -- because that's how this project has gone.   I've never worked on a vehicle so ...hurt? ...cursed? in my life. Everything has been effed with SO HARD, but I think...knock on wood...I've managed to undo all the backyard stuff and we're almost reset back to "just" an 80k mile, 30 year old Blazer.
    • Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...