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Take a look at the parts list for the updated TBV. The gasket is listed as a seal. and the orings depend on whether the cooling lines are aluminum or steel.

My go to double sided adhesive is 3M emblem tape. It comes in various widths. The key to making it work best is to clean off both sides thoroughly and completely. This can sometimes be a bit tedious but is very important. I will often use isopropyl alcohol to do this on all involved surfaces after using an adhesive remover. 3M also has an excellent adhesive remover but is a bit pricey. But it works great.

THAT is damned expensive at 70k, I agree with the other fella some chain and an extra bolt hole on engine, weld other end to the frame.

Bought a P/N 23227172 and it a match for my old piece. Thanks all.

Update....It's been over two months since I tightened the bolts on the coolant reservoir....no more noises (at least the one I had)! Thanks Pryme for the tip!

My 69 impala had TQ straps. Maybe you can tie that sucker down.

Finished getting the Banks Idash gauges setup the way I like.

I used to think the same thing until I bought that '07 In my signature. I took care of that thing maintenance-wise like no other vehicle. I treated it like GOLD. It was the first new truck I had ever bought in my life, so nothing was too expensive when it came to fluids and filters ... ... and everything STILL wore out or broke long, LONG before it should have!! While these trucks have ZERO tolerance for neglected maintenance, they can't even survive with GOOD maintenance. Not just GM, either - it's all across the board today. GM just happens to lead the pack in the race to the bottom, especially lately.

It really hasn’t changed that much. Every manufacturer has good years and bad years. I searched several local dealer sites daily looking for my next good deal. I see several high mileage vehicles from every brand along with their carfax. The song is the same good maintenance equals high mileage trouble free. If I see something interesting I look on the web for historical data. The manufacturer is chasing government mandated MPGs that add stress to vehicles. 2016 is my wall for as long as I can stay there. After that there’s way too much intrusion for my taste. I’m old school I don’t want the noise. My brother in law forgot to turn off his stop start on his newer VW. Sitting at a light in rush hour traffic his car wouldn’t restart. Dead battery. He feared for his life for an hour before a tow arrived. The only reason that it’s there is for a slight fuel mileage increase across the brand. Just like cylinder deactivation. Buy extended warranty on new, research used is about the best you can do.

Some huge news: I've done a bunch of reverse engineering on the Vtrux's CANBusses and now we have a bunch of CANbus specs for helping diagnose these trucks! Quick summary: the Vtrux has 3 CANbuses, I've been calling them them the Powertrain, OBD, and Vehicle buses. Most of the Via high voltage components live on the Powertrain bus: battery, DCDC, generator inverter, charger, power electronics water pump, high voltage AC compressor. The drivetrain inverter and the original GM ECM live on the OBD bus, and the EBCM (brake/traction controls, etc) live on the Vehicle bus. Via's controller spoofs certain messages between the GM ECM and the EBCM to keep both happy (EBCM gets fake always-on engine data, for example). All 3 of the buses are broken out at the white DLC connector below the dash - the Vehicle bus at the standard OBD canbus pins (CAN-H 6/CAN-L 14), then Powertrain at CAN-H pin 1/CAN-L pin 9, and OBD at CAN-H pin 10/CAN-L pin 2. Both of my trucks came with a breakout harness breaking these out to secondary connectors with each bus on the primary 6/14 pins, such that a standard OBDII connector to CAN adapter can interface with the buses that way, and I bet most other Vtruxes out there have these. P2 is the powertrain bus on mine and P1 is the OBD bus. On one of my trucks, this harness was used to break out the OBD and Powertrain buses to wireless Bluetooth dongles, which were then connected to an iPhone tucked under the dash with a logging app. I was able to jailbreak the iPhone and pull the logger app off of it, then with the help of LLM tools using Ghidra, decompile the app and extract the CANbus specs from it. I have not been able to figure out any way to read diagnostic codes from the Via controller - everything I've been able to figure is just directly analyzing log data directly. Which aligns with how Via used to support these trucks, with the mail in logger. But now we actually have meaningful fault diagnostic data - for example, the other day, I was trying to reinstall a pack in one of my trucks after replacing the contactors and cleaning up some corrosion, but the truck wouldn't turn back on when reconnected. I was able to pull a log and diagnose the issue as a high voltage interlock fault, and sure enough, when I got back home and opened the pack back up, turns out I had forgotten to reconnect the interlock connector on the charger HV DC connector which I had done some corrosion cleanup on. Here are some links to the repo where I documented all the findings, including CANBus DBC definition files: https://github.com/nickyivyca/canbus-reveng-vtrux-coda https://github.com/nickyivyca/canbus-reveng-vtrux-coda/tree/main/projects/vtrux If you are trying to diagnose issues with the trucks, probably the best option is to take a CAN log while the issue is happening of the Powertrain bus. Then either you can use the tools in the repo yourself to check the log, or you can send the log to me and I can try taking a look. If you do not already have a means of taking a CAN log then these will work if you have access to a Linux based computer that can use socketcan: USB to CAN/DB9 adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09K3LL93Q DB9 CAN to OBD adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081N7G2BR Important note: my previous assumption about my coolant pump was wrong. The truck does NOT suddenly turn off when either drivetrain or generator motor overheat. I did separate tests for both motors, unplugging the coolant pump and then driving around until the motors overheated. Both motors gently reduced their torque output when they overheated. It is still unclear to me exactly what was causing my truck to randomly shut off, since I only have one log of when it randomly shut off on me, which does not indicate an interlock or isolation fault, but swapping the battery pack with another running truck completely fixed the issue, so the issue was somewhere in the battery pack. I ended up replacing all 5 contactors, which looked like they had gotten hot over time, so once I can get it back in my other truck I can see if that indeed fixed the issue.

OK just did the job, here is what I learned for anyone future reading this. 1. Very easy overall, step 1 pop hood, clean around brake fluid res and open cap, place on top. Also no service mode needed on these (2500+3500 only) 2. I used 2x Bremen 12 inch bar clamps from HF, compressed the calipers fast and easy 3. I deleted the sensors, so I disabled them in the settings first, then just took the old sensors and zipped tied them out of the way(3 zip ties each), super easy and didn't cost anything. 4. my brake fluid res was overfilled when i done, I removed some before starting or opening a door on the truck to just below full. 5. That's it, took about an hour total, brakes are way better now, no squeal and they bite much better!

Just give me a 409 in a truck... I hope they use the 6.7 liter myself... for both

Absolutely hate the headlamps. Remind me of an older model GMC.

Alldata books 16.3 hours to change both. At 200/hr, that's $3260 just in labor. Right side is the more complex side. Gotta suck down the refrigerant to move a couple lines out, and a big chunk of the exhaust and EGR has to go as well. Parts would run about $590. That's both new mounts (updated mounts), new mount to block brackets (required for the new mounts), one time use bolts, all seals and gaskets for everything that has to be removed and coolant.