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Is this the new replacement for the valvoline restore and protect, & do not miss the rinsing at the end https://x.com/Jacquesjazz45/status/2060829208855638312?s=20

OMG don't let @riddler see this

One more - you can see the sealant failed.

I don’t care if it stops burning oil. I just need to slow it down. It’s got 220k. I never missed an oil change. It doesn’t make sense for the oil rings to not do their job - the plugs aren’t caked and my factory cats are still in place and functioning. I don’t think there’s excessive crankcase pressure from worn compression rings because I don’t get a lot of oil in my catch can between the PCV valve and the intake. I tore apart the old driver side VC. There’s a sealant between the alum valve cover and steel baffle assembly that’s riveted down. It seems the seal let go near the port that goes to the intake / before the throttle body. The design looks like a sealed side that sucks from the air intake and pulls from 3 / 6 holes and then internal baffles seperate the oil / vapors from the air and then drain back down and drip to the heads. Once that seal fails, oil will be sucked up right into the air intake / before the throttle body. It won’t pass through the separators and you’ll burn more oil. Add in the fact that both valve covers could attribute to this and you may end up with significant consumption, especially when you add in the amount of miles. I do not have a brand new valve cover to tear apart to see what they changed inside the cover. Part of me wants to waste the $75 but that’s 6 quarts of oil if these fixes don’t work lol. see pics of drivers side cover pulled apart.

That screw is just holding the tail light in. There should be some play in where the screw can be tightened to align the taillight.

Reminds me I have not checked the price of propane since filling before all this began, although I'm not sure how affected it is, to be honest. It was under $2/gallon on our last fill before all this began. Having a 1,000 gallon tank allows us to be pretty choosy about when we fill.

My brother ran the shop and let’s say more adventurous than me. I was more skeptical. But I did notice that the engines ran cooler. When I hauled my equipment with one ton trucks I noticed right a way they ran cooler. Same with the ROW clearing tractors. Especially the hydraulics. In those situations you’re at max duty cycle you’re not just cruising your working the equipment. And speaking of oil usage is where defects would show up. And you would use oil. And they didn’t. It’s why I’m kinda amused with the whole they all use oil hair splitting here. I spent my life using equipment at their max stress levels. If engines were prone to use oil it would be a problem.

Added the denali cluster to the duramax today

I just deleted the vac pump but there was no oil in the line to the booster and brakes always felt great. Wanted to remove it from the equation before it was an issue. I installed the two plugs in the oil passages and a block off plate. there’s a company that makes a vac manifold that goes between the purge valve and the intake. I used that for the booster vac line - I didn’t want to T into my catch can return line. the vac pump was replaced under warranty back in 2019 or so, so it was the new style pump.

He has no clue what he means. Argues like a child. Somewhere a village is missing its......

Speculation of course but I bet it would not only prevent oil from leaking out of the engine as explained here, but probably would prevent any future oil use within the cylinders as well once it gets a chance to work its way through the engine for a few minutes

The level of trolling from someone who joined on Tuesday of last week is pretty high. My guess is former member promoted to visitor who created a new account, or is using a shadow account to bypass user blocks. Just a guess. :shrug:

Year won't make a difference. Its all the same sheetmetal on HD 2020-2026. Here's a brand new truck showing the left and right sides of that spot weld area.