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This happened to me with my gasser on the 2nd "free" oil change. Stupidly I never checked the dipstick and when I changed the oil next myself I drained out 10 quarts (Duramax spec). I, too, thought they put the wrong oil in so I sent a sample in to Blackstone, but luckily they confirmed it was 5W-30. I'm assuming the oil change "tech" saw an HD truck and just did the "standard" 10 quarts.

I’m quite bored with this subject. I’ve been mostly amused by the logic presented. I will happily drive along in my non oil using vehicles. That’s my definition and that’s good enough for me.

Guys, thank you so much for the help! Dealer called back and is willing to participate $7,000 towards lifter and cam shaft replacement. Basically complete engine rebuild. Our cost will be 5k. These replacement parts will be covered by a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty.

Doesnt take an engineer to read a dipstick. Otherwise the manufacturer would require dealership oil level checks. Not brain surgery either.

Don’t get hung up over this. No disrespect intended. People have a different opinion of what constitutes using oil. I stated mine.

Give or take, all but my earliest vehicles had that short an interval. To be sure any vehicle I've touched this century, generally they've all been on a minimum 5k interval.

I appreciate it. I got another quote locally for a remanufactured engine + labor with a 3 year 100k mile warranty for 9k flat with a $500 rebate. Very reputable business in my area and they do good work.

Definitely monitoring the suspension. Was surprised a pavement pounder Denali with stock tires ate lower ball joints at 65K. The rear leaf spring isolator pads have also all been replaced TWICE!. Questioning wheel bearings, input output seals, coolant and oil hoses, and how long the electric adaptive ride control shocks will hang in there... already investigating the kits that eliminate those so I can use regular shocks without triggering a warning light. U-joints are on the monitor list as I already would have replaced them on an older truck. I think oner front CV is starting to make some minor noise, so that's the next repair. Just did the serpentine belt again when replacing a leaking radiator, and everything on the accessory drive looked good, but I wonder how much longer the water pump and other items will last. Battery gets replaced every 2.5 years regardless of how it tests. Otherwise everything in the severe maintenance schedule has been done religiously, along with a TON of other warranty repairs.

If you're driving in remote areas, suspension issues would be forefront on my mind. Preventative maintenance would be things like doing wiggle-checks on joints and replacing if there's noticeable wear. If your ball joints only lasted 65k on the first round, are you monitoring them again now that you're over 100k? Driveshaft u-joints are also suspect if the truck sees hard use. Tie rod/ends. Front CV joints Engine accessories like idler/tensioner pulleys, alternator, and battery, if it hasn't already been replaced. Have you gone through your owner's manual maintenance checklist, and can you definitively check off all the things even if they seem minor?

When I’m looking at used vehicles. A fairly new phenomenon for me. I look at the average reliability on the internet. All vehicles hit a milestone at 100K. Look at a carfax type of maintenance record. I only cruise dealers on the net that provide that. I’m always looking at my next minivan. Honda has the highest 100K maintenance because of the timing belt. My next one is going to be 2022 or newer. Probably just after the 100K mark with all maintenance done. If you’re looking for a used truck in a 1/2 ton. I would go with a Nissan or the V-8 Tundra. A midsize a Toyota, Nissan or Ridgeline for reliability. 2008 would be my cut off on GM only with the 4.8. 5.3 only without the Cylinder Deactivation. But even with those they have issues years. Hit the net for the reliable years.

Ok, all you hair spitters. All engines use oil because you change it, happy? And according to the manufacturer it’s all normal up to a qt every 2500 miles. Some even more. Probably the question should have been have you lost an engine because of oil usage. So if you don’t add between oil changes you’re using oil efficiency. Just like if you hit the manufacturer gas mileage numbers. At least in my case according to the manufacturer’s oil measuring device my vehicles worked as designed. Gee, I wonder if my tires are using air?

Where does the oil on the spark plug threads come from on the DOD cylinders? If a motor uses ZERO oil then what lubricates the valve guides and top rings?

To close out on this (my) post about the tailgate touch pad, I just installed the replacement. About 10 minutes, easy, fits well and easily accessible via the detachable panel on the inside of the tailgate. I've attached a photo of the part from gmpartscenter.net. $5 for the part + $15 shipping. I wish all fixes were this easy! Part Number Part Name Price Quantity Total 85877553 Tailgate Release Switch $5.02 1 $5.02

I find all this amusing and perplexing. In measuring oil I use the supplied tool. It’s called a dip stick. Using the supplied tool I have been fortunate enough according to this thread not to have oil usage problems in all but two vehicles. They use one qt every 2500 miles. Different manufacturers both said within normal perimeters. I have access to quite a few vehicles. They have countdown meters for oil changes. I figured using that and pulling the oil checking device I could actually show no oil usage problems. I’ll show them I thought. Then I realized I can’t prove I didn’t add oil. So I decided, screw it. I know what I know. If people want to believe that all vehicles use oil. That’s fine with me. I’m not going to get in the weeds. It’s comes down to what your definition of what is, is. Seems I heard the analogy before.