jdvaughn

Have you by chance verified this worked with the 14's? All it is a is a radio transmitter, but you never know what the engineers decide to change. This is essentially the same thing as a garage door opener....(different frequency obviously)

Another reason I dont go to the dealer...I just dont have time to be running back and forth.

I know the air down procedure doesnt work anymore and I dont believe the key fob method works either. The only way I believe is to go to the dealership and use their tool or order one. I was wondering more if someone ordered one or had any recommendations. As far as never wanting to go to dealers, I have had too many reasons never to go back. Not really specific to one dealer, but multiple dealers over multiple various issues. 1. Had issues with the wrong weight oil installed in my wife's diesel along with the wrong fuel filter (therefore fuel was bypassing the filter). I realize accidents happen, but I am not ok with them happening at my expense (customer's expense). 2. Also had issues with door dent/chip from tech opening into a post lift 3. Have seen someone drive away from a dealership and almost have a wheel fall off due to the tech forgetting to retorque the lugs. I work in an industry where we have to make everythign 100% retard proof becuase we cannot depend on the training of the supposidly trained/certified technicians. I have seen a lot of stupid things happen and just prefer to do the work myself so i know what oil is installed in my car, how the lugs were torqued etc....to each his own I guess. I may just drive by the dealership now that the tires are rotated and ask them to let me use the tool or walk around it for a minute....literally a minute to do this procedure.

Has anyone rotated their tires and successfully re-learned the tpms sensors to their corrent new loication? I changed the oil last night, but realized that there is a "calibration" tool to relearn the tmps sensors. I heard there was way to let the air out of the tire in the order of caliobration and that worked on the 11s. And before you ask...I hate going to dealers so lets just leave that out of the conversation. Thanks for the help in advance.

I have a noise that sounds like the rear leaf springs during tight turn/backup maneuvers. I also hear it if I am on a road or hill that causes the rear end to flex. Not 100% sure it isn't normal, but I seem to just be noticing it now at 5000 miles, so not sure if this is a new noise or I just never noticed.

Seat frame was replaced today at the dealer and it is like new again. All of the slop is gone and it feels nice and tight (so slop or slack in the seat). Haven't driven it too much yet, but so far so good (knock on wood). b1gted, did you get your seat yet? My dealer ordered it and received it in less then a week. Sounds like your dealer may be confused or jerking you around...

b1gted, I went to have them look at the seat today and they are going to replace the entire seat bracket (similar to your situation). However, they said I could have a bracket installed by Tuesday/Wed of next week. I am not sure whether I should believe it or not that they will get the bracket in that time due to your prolonged waiting... The service advisor was very limited in his words and none of them gave me screaming confidence that it will be here next week.

Jennifer, Is there a way for you to get in touch with someone who can tell us what the lead time for these seat assemblies is? I have a meeting with my dealer tomorrow morning and I am guessing that is the situation I will be in...waiting for a seat to be found. As a customer who currently owns the vehicle, I believe I should get preference over vehicles going down the line, but unfortunately GM already has my money and the ones on the line only earn them more, so I am likely lowest on their list. In my personal opinion this is a big miss with GM due to the fact that this part is 100% related to the customer's experience, not to mention something that is fundamental to every car on the road today, so what makes this one so difficult to do correctly? I am sick of feeling like I am sitting on a snow tube on a cold winter day as I go around corners in this truck. At first it was once or twice, now all the time, so there is a definite wear out mode here. The rear of the bottom portion of the seat just seems to clunk from side to side. I took a look under the seat to see if there was any noticeable slop in the bracket without digging too far, but I cant seem to find it. I can feel it and hear it under the seat, but cant seem to pinpoint the direct area. I love the truck, but this experience is making me wish I would have never got rid of my 2011 Ford F150 ecoboost (which was a new model year also for all of you people that tend to use that as an excuse).

Hey b1gted, Have you heard anything back from the dealer on part availability? This is the exact feeling I have. The rear of the seat bottom seams to click/pop from side to side and the seat also clicks when I first get in like it is loose. I have been meaning to get under the seat and take a look before I go in for my 2nd follow up appointment on this issue. I am weary to believe they actually have a redesign already, but maybe it has been an more prominent issue that has been brought up to the dealer at a higher level than I thought. Let me know what you hear and if it leads to any success with the adjuster swap out. The truck didn't do this at first, so it seems like something wore out and just hoping it wont happen again (IE. need a redesign or fix of sorts). Thanks.

I had my truck into the dealership a few weeks ago for seat movement issues and it seems they added two small clips to fasten the seat cushion to the frame. At first it seemed it may be better (I think it was psychological), but I now have movement in the seat again. I see the clips are still there, but I get seat movement (lateral and forwards/backwards, not up and down) in turns and braking. It definitely feels like the bracket to me as the movement is small but sudden and clunks, not smooth like the cushion is sliding. Every time I get in the seat clicks/clunks a little in a manner that makes it seem as if it is taking up the slack in the bracket bushings or pivot points. Anyone who has had the actual seat bracket replaced have any better luck fixing the issue? is it the same bracket without a fix to address the slop in the bracket? This is ridiculous to have this happen on such an expensive vehicle. I know it is a new model blah blah blah, but things like this fall under the basic fundamentals. Figure out how to make a seat!!! Venting over....Thanks for the help and otherwise I love the truck so far, but get frustrated over such elementary things going wrong.

I agree with you 100% that the difference in weight will definitely effect your pinion angle. The question is, does it effect it enough to make a difference in ever day life? If your pinion angle is already on the cusp of being out of alignment, maybe the weight is enough to push it over the edge. If that is the case, I would think you would be able to get a repeatable results since this is a mechanical interaction not some chance interaction. With two extra grown men and full versus empty tank you could have a 600 lb difference (2 guys at 200 lbs each and roughly 200 lbs of fuel for 26 gallons (about 8lbs per gallon)), which is a big difference. My plan of action would be to try and make this repeat itself by loading the bed with weight incrementally and see if there is a weight that makes the drive shaft pinion angle cause vibrations. Being a mechanical engineer, I tend to be very methodical about the notes I take even on my own projects such as this (just habit I guess)and suggest that you could record the amount of weight added, location of the weight, the approximate pinion to shaft angle and finally the distance from the top of the rear tire to the bed/wheel well (in order to asses how the suspension has loaded as a function of the weight added). Do this in a few steps of weight in the very back of the bed closest to the tailgate to get the greatest effect (maybe start with 100 lbs, then 200, 300 and so on until you get some result).Drive the same stretch of road with the same amount of fuel if possible to eliminate as many variables as possible. From this test you will be able to see how pinion angle changes as a function of weight load and if it is significant enough to be an issue. This sounds like a mechanical interaction and if you get it to do it once, you should be able to do it a million times for the dealership with the same amount of weight/bad pinion angle (hence the notes). It seems your pinion angle is bad with light load in the truck so adding load may make the pinion angle better (hence the good ride with the dealer and a tank of gas), but that is why you should look at the pinion angle as a function of the load to see if it sways significantly. Ultimately you can prove the pinion angle is changing enough with load and if it is already on the edge of max tolerance then the load may be enough to get some vibrations. Hope this is somewhat helpful and not just a long mess of words.

Are you sure the pinion angle was off? It may have been preloaded such that when there is weight in the bed or on the hitch that the pinion angle is most correct since the vibration would be noticed more with the load. therefore with no weight in the bed, the angle may be slightly out of line....just a thought.

Looking forward to these instructions. Wish I would have done it from the get go.