DanielAcosta

Yes. Toyo A/T close to that size for the first 55K miles, BFG A/T KO2 for 14K miles since. Smooth all the way. Fuel 20 inch wheels since day one. I've driven about 20 Silverados and Sierras, 14-16 model years, and all have been smooth except for one 16 Silverado crew with 5.5 box. Currently have my 14 Sierra crew 6.5 box and 16 Silverado crew 6.5 box. They're both 4x4. The Sierra is non-Z71 with aftermarket wheels and tires, the Silverado is a stock Z71. Sierra has 69K miles, Silverado 2,500. Both smooth. Both 5.3 6-speed. Both averaging about 20mpg overall.

ABCMan I think yours is the best looking lift/tire combo I've seen. You can see from my photos that your tires fill the wheel well much better than mine. For the first 51,500 miles I ran Toyo 275/65R20 (34" tall), then switched to BFG AT/KO2 275/65R20. Since they are the same size, no surprise I had the same results in that I can turn full lock without rubbing, but just barely. Like you, I'm surprised by the poster saying he is rubbing with smaller tires. I think the issue is all level kits are not created equal. My wheel wells measure 40", which is 4" taller than stock in front. I'm guessing the ABCMan's is 1/2 to 1 inch taller, and the guy who said he rubs at full lock probably measures a little lower. So if you all have a moment, please measure your wheel well height and post it so we can all learn, thanks!

I've had a Lo-Pro QT on several tucks, each iteration has a little detail or two that makes it even better so you won't be disappointed. AutoAnything has great prices and offers the best price over the phone vs their website. Self-install is really easy. Enjoy.

34's did not require trimming, at least for me. See my signature block and photo gallery for more details. Smartest solution is to have your shop do a test fit before committing the $$, that's what Discount Tire did for me.

5.3 4x4 3.42 with small lift and 34" tires, pretty happy with 20mpg overall for the first 37K miles. The OnStar app says 21, but it rounds up; the actual number is 20 point something, and the truck computer is a bit high (measured mileage at the pump is about 1/2 mpg lower than the truck says), so 20 is realistic. For those wondering about the displayed recommended tire pressures, that's what I had the dealer program in to the truck's BCM during one of the software upgrades. I picked low numbers so I wouldn't get nuisance lights during the winter when the tire pressure naturally drops. I actually run the pressures shown with an empty bed, load range E Toyo all-terrains.

Fresh grease in the zerk fittings solved my creak.

Mostly 87, occasionally 85 in parts of the country that sell it.

While the software updates can be irritating, they do work.

It wasn't the HVAC module, it was the large radio display in the center, but the fix included the HVAC system which apparently runs through that display. When you go in, just ask them to check to see what outstanding updates are available for you, and if you're still less than 36K miles it should be done no questions asked. The particular update I just had done was to the HMI module. You are correct in that sometimes they do ask for a symptom that matches the needed update, so I gave them a couple. Here's what the repair ticket says: Radio favorites will disappear and then come back after key cycle; voice prompt length changes itself to long after being set to short; reference PI 1126D. Performed PI 1126D, reprogrammed HMI module 2881168 I think the 2881168 might be an internal code and what you really need is the PI 1126D There is a sequence of buttons they press on the dash that pulls up your software version; if the latest software version is newer, you qualify for the upgrade. I wasn't aware until after the fix it would improve my A/C performance, but it did. Specifically, the fan speed is more gradual in its speed changes, it doesn't use recirculate as much, and when I hit the A/C button to manually turn the A/C off it turns off right away (before it would think about it for awhile). I've had so many software updates in the short 15 months I've owned this truck I have lost count. On the one hand it's frustrating, but on the other it's good that each update has made an improvement. So whenever you're in for service, check to see what's available. Good luck with yours.

Don't know if it leaves a trace or not. Just did another software update at the dealer today, deprogrammed Hypertech before, let the dealer do their thing, then put Hypertech back in. No issues. BTW, if you're on the fence about any of the software upgrades, do it. Every update I've done in the last year has improved something. Today's update improved the a/c operation and phone syncing, along with improved radio and DIC performance. Best to get these done while you're still under warranty, because it's up to the dealer and GM to goodwill these updates after the basic 3/36 expires.

Not sure about the Truck Cover brand, but with a Truxedo Lo-Pro QT you still have full use of the stake pockets.

Just to clarify, the speedometer calibrator is the same as a tune because it reprograms the truck's ecm, so treat it just like a tuner even thought all you're changing is the tire size to correct the speedometer/odometer. For mine, the most accurate results were obtained by putting in a 33 inch tire size (even though they are 34's) because 33 is the height with the weight of the truck on the tires. I did a lot of experimenting in 1/4 inch increments, then checking with two gps's, before finally coming up with that result. Take the time to experiment with yours before settling on a final number.

Yes, it will get messed up if you don't return to stock before having any ECM/BCM etc work done by the dealer. If they are just doing routine service, no big deal you can leave the Hypertech tune installed. But if they are plugging into the port under your dash to make any changes, return your truck to stock, let them do their thing, then program the Hypertech again. Takes about 10 minutes to return to stock, then another 10 minutes later to put the tune in again.

Tried to respond to your message but couldn't get it to work. Regarding my truck: No blocks in back, 2.5 inch lift in front that was dealer installed before I bought it, so I don't know what brand it is. Tire size is in my signature block on all my posts. Good luck with yours.

It will correct the shift points and V4 operation, which in turn improves your fuel economy. After 34K miles I'm still averaging 20mpg overall, which seems pretty good to me for a 4wd lifted truck with a stock epa rating of 16/22/18. Take time to calibrate yours with a gps for best results. Even though my tires are 34 inches tall, the Hypertech entry that worked best for me was 33 inches, which is the height of the tires when compressed by the weight of the truck. Good luck.

I put oversize 34" Toyo LT's on mine. Both Discount Tire and Toyo gave me recommendations on the higher pressures to run, and I had the dealer program my TPMS warning accordingly. The dealer did this for free while they were doing one of the many software upgrades/recalls these trucks have been through. I have my warnings set for 45F/40R, I actually run 55F/48R empty, 55 all around when loaded. I have the warnings set lower to avoid nuisance warnings on cold mornings when traveling to areas with lower temperatures. 33K miles now with great results, still getting 20mpg+ overall with oversize tires and a small lift, 4" total higher than stock. I did a Hypertech reprogram to correct the speedometer/odometer, so my mileage figures are accurate. Typically I get 18-20 city, 20-22 highway, 5.3 4x4 3.42. Best 400 mile DIC is 22.9.

I believe one of the BCM updates addresses this very issue. Separately, I discovered one of the terminals on my battery was not totally tight on mine, which caused weird electrical problems that went away once the terminal was tightened.

What you say is partially true. My effective gear ratio is in between two of the ratios (3.08 and 3.42) GM offers on these trucks. By correcting the tire size the ECM uses, it changes the shift points and V4 engagement. I experimented with different sizes with the Hypertech and found (as compared to stock tires installed): 1. Oversize tires with no correction gave delayed shifts to higher gears and decreased V4 use. 2. Artificially high tire sizes (example: putting in 40" when the actual installed size is 34") actually gave more V4 usage but greatly exaggerated delays in shifting. RPM would run very high before shifting, but it stayed in V4 mode almost all the time. So the ECM anticipated more load from the effective change in gearing, but also realized that under light throttle and the higher rpm, 4 cylinders were more than enough to provide the power necessary. 3. Oversize tires with correct oversize programmed in yields shifts and V4 engagement virtually the same as stock. For example, at 45mph I am just under 1,100 rpm in 6th gear with V4 engaged. How does that compare to what you see with a 3.08 or 3.42 rear end? So obviously I ended up with option 3 above, and my mileage is almost as good as stock. Naturally there will be a slight decrease from the extra mass of the larger tires, but 19 overall after 15K miles according to the OnStar app seems pretty reasonable for a 4wd crew with 6.5 foot bed truck that is rated 16/22 and 18 overall. My worst tank was recently 8mpg during a day of rock crawling at speeds less than 5mph. My best is 24. Usually I'm right around 18-19 in town and 19-20 on the highway cruising at 80. As others have reported, if I drop the speed to about 73 or less the mileage climbs closer to the epa 22 highway rating. I have a few DIC pictures of typical mileage. My 400 mile average is usually around 20, but does drop after off-roading or hi-speed highway runs. BTW, the truck is very quiet and smooth cruising at 95, but naturally a bit thirsty at that speed. That was on the extraterrestrial highway in northern Nevada, probably the longest, most boring stretch of road I have ever been on. Last comment: with the correct tire size calibration, my odometer error is 0.2 miles per 100 miles, which is probably more accurate than any of the stock odometers. So what I am saying is the mileage figures are accurate and corrected for the oversize tires by the Hypertech. Bottom line is that oversize tires and a lift, even a small one like mine, will naturally decrease your mileage, but it's a small hit if you take the time to program the ecm for your mods. So if you like more ground clearance and larger tires for off-roading, go for it. Might not be very driveable if you start with the 3.08, but if you have the 3.42 or 3.73 you should be fine. BTW, I did test drive an all-terrain, 5.5 foot bed with 3.08 rear end and 34's like mine, no speedometer correction, and it actually drove okay. It was very much like you suggested in that I saw very little V4 engagement, plus I didn't want the reduced payload and towing capacity of the 3.08. Ideally I would have bought the 3.73, but 3.42 is all that was available back in August and I was impatient, so here I am. No regrets.

Easy to correct with a Hypertech speedometer calibrator.

I've had the Truxedo on my Frontier, Tundra, and now Sierra. Each version has been better than the last, very easy self-installation and bed sealing. Virtually no leakage anywhere on the Sierra, at most a couple drops in the corners after long downpours.

My dealer did a free reprogram, but was limited to sizes that are "stock" so it only made a slight difference. I invested in a Hypertech and it was worth it. My tires are 2.5 inches taller than stock, so if yours are only 1/2 inch or less taller than stock it might not be worthwhile. Coopers are highly rated, but according to my Discount Tire dealer not as quiet or long-lasting as the Toyos, which actually have a tread life warranty. I had two sets of Toyos on my Tundra; the first set still had life left after 60K miles. 15K with the Toyos on my Sierra, and still totally impressed. Quiet on the highway and great off-road, rain, mud, snow. Just did some rough rock crawling this weekend and I was the only vehicle that didn't air down, still did great.

You might need to go to the options screen on the DIC to enable it.

The 400 mile is a moving average since you last reset it. If the average is higher than your best, it will bump it up accordingly. While your momentary mileage might be greater than your best, it has to be an accumulative average for 400 miles to make it count. Thus the 25 mile best average will likely be your highest, then the 50, and finally the 400.

It's one of the pages in the info menu. If yours isn't there, try going to settings on the DIC to enable it.

For the record I have seen no change in mileage and I have had all the ECM/TCM/BCM updates completed. My gallery has DIC photos of mileage. Right now I'm at 12,500 miles and still consistently getting 20mpg with 34" tires. I usually go about 450-500 miles/tank. My best tanks have been 20-22mpg on highway trips at 75, though I have seen 24mpg at lower speeds (photos in my gallery). Hand calculations are generally within 0.5 mpg of the DIC display. The stock trucks I test drove were showing about 2mpg higher than my truck with oversize tires. And yes, I have a Hypertech so my figures are corrected for the tires.