Fasthotrod

No... I think they are talking about the bump stop located on the shaft of the front shock near the top. Picture attached for reference. Mark Sent from my Phone using Tapatalk

Not necessarily... I did mine in my driveway, not on a lift. Yes, you pull and disassemble the shock/spring, but you can do that using a jack, jack stands, etc...

Not yet... Been to busy trying to get my shop built. Maybe once that's done I'll throw a block in the back, but so far it's been great. I didn't recalibrate my speedo, but it's only about 5% off according to my calculations. Last speed trap I rolled through showed it almost dead nuts... but who knows how accurate those things are, or how accurate the 'real' tire size is for sure? Sent from my Phone using Tapatalk

Per Bilstein... Sent from my Phone using Tapatalk

AC failure is common in this series truck. It's either the condenser, or one of the lines connected to the compressor. My guess is that you have a leak, and the pressure switch isn't allowing the AC compressor to kick on. It's designed this way so that the compressor doesn't run dry and grenade on ya. I'm dealing with a leak right now... Google search it and you will see what I mean. Good luck! Mark

Sure... if you look closely, you can see where the front tire rubbed the inner liner at full lock before I put the new shocks on it. Doesn't rub now, though.

I run BFG KO2's in 275/70R18. I put them on long before I ever put the Bilstein shocks up front. I only had minor rubbing on the inner fender liner, and only at full lock when turning. Since putting on the Bilstein shocks at the highest setting, I've not had that problem at all. Kinda hard to see it as I took the picture at dusk after installing the shocks... but it sits pretty level. I might pop a 1" lift block in the rear to give it a little rake, but so far it's not been bad at all. Shocks are a bit more stiff than the Ranchos, but not in a bad way. Turns feel better without a lot of body roll, bumps are more firm and it doesn't take long to settle down after a large dip.

Sharp looking truck, Tanner!

Well, I got the call from my local 4 Wheel Parts today... the manager said that my shocks... errrr... and struts, were in and ready for pickup. I went in and shared the info from the 4 Wheel Parts website where they call them 'shocks' and where Bilstein calls them shocks... but those guys never changed their minds. They also tried to increase the price, but I showed them how I ordered them on-line and it came up as a package deal for four shocks... specifically for my 2014/Chevrolet/Silverado/Crew Cab/LTZ/5.3 Liter. (Had to select each option.) I showed him the invoice, which listed the correct part numbers, and specifically where they called them shocks. "No sir... those are struts." So you're telling me that 4 Wheel Parts corporate, Bilstein, GM, and I are all wrong by calling them shocks... and you're right? Okay, whatever... I will give the parts guy behind the counter credit... he looked through the computer, checked the part numbers, saw the invoice, tried three ways from Sunday to square up how I got that price and couldn't make it happen... so he just went ahead and entered a description saying that the cost on line was what I paid, and he was going to honor that. He shook my hand, handed me the shocks, and off I went. I wasn't about to push my luck with free installation... even though I had the coupon. Not worth the battle. Edit: Imagine my surprise when I got home and opened the box for the front shocks, took a look at the instructions and saw: "1. Disassemble front shock and coil spring according to vehicle manufacturer's procedures." Go figure... Bilstein 5100 Installation Instructions.pdf

Jon A - Isn't that technically a MacPherson strut vs. just a strut? I found this while I was looking for a decent explanation so I could explain it when I pick up my parts... is this right? https://www.autoeducation.com/autoshop101/suspension.htm Strut: Just a fancy unit that combines the spring and shock in to one unit. Usually a little more labor to remove the spring when replacing the shock (strut cartridge). MacPherson Strut: Just a fancier version of the Strut which also serves as the upper pivot point for the suspension.

Thanks for the heads up... I went over to 4 Wheel Parts and was able to place my order last night. Got them for $297.56 plus tax (they have a local store in town) so $322.85 after tax and out the door. I got the coupon for free installation, too! That's one heck of a deal... or so I thought. Imagine my surprise when I got the call from Mark, the local 4 Wheel Parts manager this morning. He said that there was a mistake with my order, as my truck doesn't have four shocks... I have two shocks in the rear, and two struts up front. I looked at my invoice, and I see that it lists two different sets of shocks and their part numbers: BIL24-238304 front and BIL33-238319 rear. (See attached.) To be fair, I got his point... it's not a separate coil spring between the frame and the lower A-arm, and a separate shock up front. The shock and spring (AKA: Strut) are an integrated part that would need to be disassembled so that the stock spring could be transferred to the new shock. Potato, potahto... spring and a shock, or a strut. Same thing. I even said as much, but he wouldn't listen... it's not a shock, it's a strut! Case closed. I scratched my head, confused... I told him that the part numbers should be correct, but he was adamant that I was wrong and that he would need to correct my order and order new front struts. (They must come with new springs and fully assembled as a strut, right? lol...) So he re-entered the 'correct' part numbers, and then said it would be at an increased cost. Say what? At this point, I'm getting frustrated... Why is it when I entered a search for "Bilstein" it comes up with all of their products, then when I enter all of my vehicle information, it comes up on the website as replacement SHOCKS?!?! Here's what I mean: https://www.4wheelparts.com/Suspension/Bilstein-5100-Series-Ride-Height-Adjustable-Shock-Absorber-24-238304.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=90&t_pt=3306&t_pn=BIL24-238304 He STILL telling me that they are struts and not shocks... as if I'm some moron that doesn't know the difference. Dude, I get it. A strut is typically a shock, a spring, a spring pad/perch, plus the necessary hardware to hold it all together... if I know that, then how is it that the manager of the store doesn't know this? Maybe he thinks that this is supposed to come pre-assembled, like some of the other units they sell? (Fox 2.0 at a much higher cost, for example.) Even their in-house ProComp brand says that the spring is not included, but they call it a strut... until you read the "technical details" where it says that it comes with FOUR SHOCKS! https://www.4wheelparts.com/Suspension/2-Front-Pro-Runner-Adjustable-Struts-and-2-Rear-Pro-Runner-Monotube-Shocks.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=90&t_pt=3306&t_pn=S/DShockingZXCombo#questions_Container I tell him to just go ahead and order the "right parts" and I'll come pick them up. I'm tired of arguing at this point. So before I hang up I throw out there: So it said that I get free installation when I order on line and choose local store pickup. He proceeds to tell me that (again) that these are struts, and strut installation is not covered, and that there would be additional installation fees. Great... so this deal isn't exactly what I was lead to believe? It says right here on my order confirmation (attached) that it's four shocks, qualifies for free installation... I guess you need to talk to your corporate office, because this isn't adding up. So after that, I called the 4 Wheel Parts main number and spoke with a guy... he basically said that I can cancel the order and get a refund, or I can just go pick them up locally when they come in. The stores are independently owned and operated, so there is nothing they can do. I get that the local guys are probably getting screwed by corporate by having things listed on their websites like this... but they need to work that out between themselves. I told Mark that I get it... you can't work for free and you've gotta make money to stay in business... but your corporate office needs to get their stuff together, because all this does is piss off customers that are being told one thing at the time of order, and then getting the old, "bait and switch" routine locally. Sorry for the rant...

Tenneco is the parent company for the following brands: Monroe Walker Clevite Axios Rancho DynoMax Thrush Fric-Rot Fonos Monroe® Intelligent Suspension More info here: http://www.tenneco.com/our_brands/ Mark

Mike, You will want to add a second harness for the other light bar, but it is easily controlled by the remote harness. Just need to trigger the relay on the second harness with the output of the remote harness. Some quick electrical math: Power (Watts) = Voltage * Amperage So that 500 watt harness at a "nominal" 12 volts DC is just over 40 amps. To get up to 600 watts, you're looking at about 50 amps. That's a big increase, and I doubt that the relay or harness could handle it for very long. Better to run an additional simple harness that is triggered by the first harness. On electrical systems, amperage is the current flow... think of it like water trickling down a stream for low amps, or a raging river for high amps. Inside the wire, the electrons are doing the same thing, only when they bounce around they cause fiction, which heats the wire up and increases the resistance of the wire, which cuts down on the amount of power you can get out of it. Let me know if you need me to draw a diagram that shows how to make it work.

Correct. My assumption is that he wants the dash switch to operate while he is in the cab, and have the remote as a way to turn it on/off from outside of the cab. In those circuits I posted, if he leaves the light switch on, but kills the ignition and gets out of the truck, the light bar will turn off. The remote control will still work to turn the light bar on/off, as it gets power from the battery directly. If you wanted to have multiple switches/remotes to turn on/off the same device and ignore a constant 'on' from any source, then it requires a different circuit.

Okay, great. Odds are, the wiring is going to be setup something like this: It's hard to tell from just a picture on Amazon, but I think this is close... there might be a blue wire from the switch to the relay rather than black, but the function is the same. If we redraw it, but remove the switch light part to simplify it, it might look like this: Now if you wanted to add the remote control module, you would put the two relays in parallel, like this: This will allow you to use either the dash switch OR the remote control module to turn the LED light bar on/off. If you bought the entire remote control wiring harness, then it could hook up just like the Rigid harness, and you would just tie each output wire together before the light bar connector. Another way to do it and eliminate one of the relays is to tie the remote control receiver into the Rigid harness, like this: The cool thing about the relays is that they are pretty cheap. I buy a bunch from Part Express along with the sockets just to keep on hand in the garage... you never know when you're going to need one, and the local parts store seems to charge a premium for them. Here's a link to Parts Express for the relays and sockets: http://www.parts-express.com/cat/12v-relays-sockets/399 They also have a ton of switches, so if you didn't like the looks of the one that came with your harness, you could easily get one with a little different style. http://www.parts-express.com/cat/rocker-switches/1574 If you wanted to make your own harness, it's not all that hard... just need to get all the wiring and parts and get to work. Let me know if this helps, or if you need additional information. Mark

Yup... should be relatively easy. If you post the links to the wiring harnesses, I'll take a look and see if I can draw you a schematic on how to do it.

Absolutely. Lots of ways to do it... but if you buy the wireless remote and harness then all you need to do is add the switch to the existing relay, or add another relay and switch in parallel with the relay on that harness.

Yes, it is. Mine had a slight burr on it, which prevented it from going on to the shaft properly. Had to bust out the grinder and clean it up, then it fit just fine.

Double post... sorry about that.

I have the Gibson exhaust, and while I can hear it when it switches back and forth, it's no big deal to me. It's noticeable, but not obnoxious.

If one of you guys could take some pictures of the plugs, I can try and cross reference them in the Delphi catalog and see if I can find the part numbers. I had some success making custom harnesses for my Corvettes this way... but then again, the factory manuals gave me the part numbers to work from. Thanks!