Not yet... Been to busy trying to get my shop built. Maybe once that's done I'll throw a block in the back, but so far it's been great. I didn't recalibrate my speedo, but it's only about 5% off according to my calculations. Last speed trap I rolled through showed it almost dead nuts... but who knows how accurate those things are, or how accurate the 'real' tire size is for sure? Sent from my Phone using Tapatalk
Installed Sub & Amp to 6 speaker BOSE (no console/no stock sub). LC2i - Issues with signal interference...Bass dropping in and out
Fasthotrod replied to KJahns's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra ModsI think I recall something about the active nose cancellation in the Bose system having issues with external subs? I believe disconnecting a mic cleared that up? Might want to do a search on the forum... I know I've seen something about it on here...
I went with the Beststop powerboards that have the remote door sensors. The wiring connects to the battery and runs down to the boards. A small box with the brains lives next to the battery, and acts as a remote receiver. The four door sensors are transmitters that sit in the door jam, one per door. They attach with double sided tape. A magnet on the door allows the sensors to detect the door opening and closing, activating the steps. The only issue I've had is that you have to replace the small coin style battery in the sensors once a year, and the boards have a slight squeak that needs a shot of oil/WD-40 now and then. Other than that, they're decent. 4 years and 100k miles, and still going strong.
AC failure is common in this series truck. It's either the condenser, or one of the lines connected to the compressor. My guess is that you have a leak, and the pressure switch isn't allowing the AC compressor to kick on. It's designed this way so that the compressor doesn't run dry and grenade on ya. I'm dealing with a leak right now... Google search it and you will see what I mean. Good luck! Mark
Buy an old one from a junk yard ten years from now? ...or just buy a new headunit that has iDatalink and use a Maestro to integrate it into the system. I doubt you'd still have a warranty to worry about ten years from now, so don't worry about the aftermarket stuff. I found a video that explains how the Maestro works with an aftermarket stereo... it gets into the factory settings at about the 4:50 mark:
I just recently did mine at max height setting, and didn't need to loosen the ball joint. I simply put the truck up on jack stands, removed both front wheels, removed both sway bar end links (left and right side) then went to work. The Bilstein 5100 increases the ride height a maximum of 1.85" but that doesn't mean that the length of the shock has increased that much. Measure the distance between the ring groves for yourself... that's the overall increase in length, which is less than the advertised lift. The reason you get the advertised lift is because of geometry: The shock sits about in the middle of the lower A-arm, so a small movement there is an increased movement on the end at the ball joint. (A-arm arc length.) If your reassembled shock/spring assembly was really 2" longer, then it likely wasn't assembled correctly, and wouldn't fit without removing the ball joint. If it is assembled correctly, it fits... but it's a close fit. There are a couple of things to look out for when reassembling the shock and spring, and getting it wrong can cause you fits. I snapped some pics when I did mine... I've been meaning to do a quick write-up about what I found and how I resolved some issues. Let me know if you think it would help and I'll try and get it put together. Mark
I run BFG KO2's in 275/70R18. I put them on long before I ever put the Bilstein shocks up front. I only had minor rubbing on the inner fender liner, and only at full lock when turning. Since putting on the Bilstein shocks at the highest setting, I've not had that problem at all. Kinda hard to see it as I took the picture at dusk after installing the shocks... but it sits pretty level. I might pop a 1" lift block in the rear to give it a little rake, but so far it's not been bad at all. Shocks are a bit more stiff than the Ranchos, but not in a bad way. Turns feel better without a lot of body roll, bumps are more firm and it doesn't take long to settle down after a large dip.
I'm at 98k miles, and got a coupon for an oil change for $59.95 from my dealer. Full synthetic Dexos. Good deal, as Mobil 1 0W-20 and Mobil 1 filter just cost me $75. So I asked about the other items, and here's what they told me: Trans filter and fluid: $129 Trans filter and complete flush: $415 Differentials - front or rear: $150/each Transfer case: $70 They recommended a radiator flush, but I passed. They don't recommend the transmission flush, just a pan drop, filter, and fill. They can't get to me for a week or so due to spring break and everyone getting maintenance done... but that's okay. I can do all that for a lot cheaper... except for that oil change. Then again, Mobil claims it's good for one year or 20k miles... not sure if I want to take that bet.
You could try and use the search function on the forum... it seems to work pretty well. Here's my build log for my 2014 Silverado Crew Cab... never finished it, but the subs are still going strong: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/162172-2014-silverado-crew-cab-z71-ltz.html Here's a really nice build on a Silverado with a Bose system: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/159994-2014-chevy-silverado-musicar-northwest.html Good luck with your search.
Well, I got the call from my local 4 Wheel Parts today... the manager said that my shocks... errrr... and struts, were in and ready for pickup. I went in and shared the info from the 4 Wheel Parts website where they call them 'shocks' and where Bilstein calls them shocks... but those guys never changed their minds. They also tried to increase the price, but I showed them how I ordered them on-line and it came up as a package deal for four shocks... specifically for my 2014/Chevrolet/Silverado/Crew Cab/LTZ/5.3 Liter. (Had to select each option.) I showed him the invoice, which listed the correct part numbers, and specifically where they called them shocks. "No sir... those are struts." So you're telling me that 4 Wheel Parts corporate, Bilstein, GM, and I are all wrong by calling them shocks... and you're right? Okay, whatever... I will give the parts guy behind the counter credit... he looked through the computer, checked the part numbers, saw the invoice, tried three ways from Sunday to square up how I got that price and couldn't make it happen... so he just went ahead and entered a description saying that the cost on line was what I paid, and he was going to honor that. He shook my hand, handed me the shocks, and off I went. I wasn't about to push my luck with free installation... even though I had the coupon. Not worth the battle. Edit: Imagine my surprise when I got home and opened the box for the front shocks, took a look at the instructions and saw: "1. Disassemble front shock and coil spring according to vehicle manufacturer's procedures." Go figure... Bilstein 5100 Installation Instructions.pdf
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