wforrest08 started following 2014 Silverado Electrical Problem (100% DEAD No Apparent Reason), Opinions on carpet vs vinyl floor, Suggestions on dented top of tailgate and and 7 others
Donstar has a good point about the gate being removable. Ask for a no rush or I’ll drop it off when your slow discount. If it ain’t your forever truck around here anyway a lot of body guys do side work out of their garages (nights & weekends) also look into local vocational schools and community colleges to see if they have a auto body program (they got to learn on somebody’s vehicle).
HELL YEAH they got great prices they’re scamming air filters off new trucks everybody knows that’s where the real money is... Question for the OP does this dealership require the salesman to go out with you on test drives? If not some cheap ass probably swapped out filters cause they are to cheap to buy one. Trust me this kind of thing happens... Also always change your own oil? If not better check your receipts or maybe homeboy @ the quickie lube needed a new one for his truck? The cabin filter set up in these suck. I change mine once a year regardless of miles. (mines a garage queen)
Here is T1 AT4s on a K2. So yes they will bolt up. I believe the problem going the other way K2 wheels on a T1 is the brakes on the T1s? Not sure how different the offset is between the AT4s and the TBs but should be able to find that info with a google search. This at least gives you an idea anyway.
These trucks are all the same only difference is on E85 trucks is the factory sensor in the fuel line and the E85 maps are enabled in the computer. The 100 bucks is basically just the sensor as the mapping is already in the computer and the fuel wiring harness is the same. This thread has a pic of the factory sensor and it’s location along with several links to other threads to “add” E85 compatibility to non E85 trucks. There’s at least 3 companies that offer a “kit” to add the sensor or you can use the factory sensor. This thread has the RPO codes for Flex & non-Flex trucks and shows where to look on the sticker for it.
I have the NVs on my 015 with Cooper AT3s no rings. Put them on new with 3k on the truck. Road Force balanced with sticky weights. Truck has 38k on it now they still ride fine & never have been rebalanced. I did a lot of research on these and most of the info I found was on the Raptor pages as these are popular with the Furd guys... The only problem is one of the Coopers has developed the dredged tire noise and they all have worn like crap with 5k rotations which sucks cause they are still better than 1/2 tread. Of course no fault of the wheels. Can’t comment on factory lugs as I have the Method splines as this is what they recommend for clearance. I see Method now offer a “flush” center https://www.methodracewheels.com/collections/center-caps/products/flush-center-cap-301-304-305-306-307-309 I’m assuming if the stock center don’t work these probably won’t either with rings but maybe? Would have to check with them. I have a set of these sitting in the garage waiting to go on at the next rotation (or new set of tires since I’m sick of hearing that Cooper hum) it might be worth checking with them to see if they work with rings if you decide to go that way. https://www.chiefmachining.com/products/methods-caps-chevy-and-others Definitely not a cheap option but I like them. As I’m guessing this is who this guy had made his hub centric caps? https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/billet-center-caps-powder-coated-engraved.36491/
Another vote for a rubber mat. The one in my 01 2500HD is one I robbed out of my 85 squarebody. It’s at least 20 years old and will out last the 01 just like it did the 85. I’m not sure what brand mine is but it’s thicker and fits better than most I’ve seen & sh!t doesn’t slid around on it. I’d say this is one of those things you get what you pay for. I also suggest if you get one or the WeatherTech thing at least once a year take it out give it & the bed a good scrubbing.
I’d check out the negative cable if you didn’t replace it already seems there is a possible crimping problem on the early years of these trucks. I found this thread and I know I’ve read at least one other like this I can’t find now?
Options Hella Supertone high/low twin horn kit (direct horn replacements cheap ricer approved your choice on “sound”) PIAA 85115 superior bass set (direct horn replacements costs more than any of the Hellas & 10x better sounding) Whelen Power Air Horn PH112 (stand alone unit & requires purchase of 100 w speaker) pa compatible SoundAlert SAAH75 100w electronic air horn (your choice of decibels stand alone unit comes with speaker way cheaper than the Whelen) pa compatible best sounding IMO or if your a DIYer there’s a setup like this I’m not a fan of “air horns” unless you already have on board air for something else already as you either get cheap crap that leaks and fails or you spend major coin on a quality set up that will not leak and last.
Most importantly your not in the hospital right now. Not necessarily I’ve been out of the auto industry for awhile now but I towed and wrenched for 8+ years. My understanding is at least at that time it took 2 sensors to deploy the frontal airbags. Also it depends on where you hit on the vehicle as to whether you take out a sensor or not lot a times you’ll hit low or high of it depending on how the vehicles line up.. I’ve seen air bags deployed in literally 5mph parking lot accidents and I towed a car once that rolled 7 plus times and not one bag went off there wasn’t one piece of glass left in it and not one foot of straight body panel on the thing. Also if you’ve never been hit in the chest by a bag (and I’m guessing you haven’t) your not missing anything. My buddies a retired cop that took one to the chest (because that’s where you’ll usually get it from my understanding) and ended up in the hospital for the day and was black and blue for months afterwards. Once the truck makes it to the body shop for repairs (if it’s not a total loss) hit them up I’d have to believe with all the “tech” in these newer vehicles that it would throw a SRS code if the bag(s) should have blown but didn’t. Best of luck with the insurance companies and hopefully your physically ok in the long run.
First I’d check with OnStar to make sure that they have your name on your trucks account. There was a guy on here last year that apparently somebody at some stealership somewhere entered his vin into the system instead of the one for the truck they sold. He kept finding his truck running in his garage cause apparently who ever bought the other truck was to dense to quit trying to use the app over and over again to start their new truck that would never start with the app. After trying everything else he pushed the OnStar button on the mirror and the operator said how can I assist you Mr. Otherguy the mystery was solved.
This thread doesn’t have pics but it does have the part # for the harness you’ll need then should be plug and play if you’re going with factory lights anyway.
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