Payton34

I have a cheap Amazon code reader. I guess since I keep it I the garage the cold start test of coolant temp having to be below 42 wasn’t happening I will park outside this week so hopefully the EGM/CMP TEST will go complete. MOTOPOWER MP69033 Car OBD2 Scanner Code Reader Engine Fault Scanner CAN Diagnostic Scan Tool for All OBD II Protocol Cars Since 1996, Yellow https://a.co/d/cMahCDf

It’s a 2014 6.2 6 speed. I disconnected the battery and removed the pulsar 2 months ago. If it doesn’t have Egr why does it show 2 incomplete when I look at the IM readiness screen and it lists Egr and Evap

About 500 miles

So my emissions showed not ready and it was due to my diablosport pulsar lt which I found out block the signal to the obd port. So removed the Pulsar in early November and been driving since but each week I check the IM readiness with a scan tool it still shows Evap and Egr as incomplete. I am due in February for emissions. How long can these test take to complete. I know I can pass with 1 incomplete so need the Evap or Egr to complete. I been keeping gas tank between 1/4 and 3/4 but don’t know what else to do. Could a mechanic with a scan tool force the computer to complete a test?

Yes the shop didn't replace the vlom valley cover solenoids when they did the lifters.

I have looked around and find so many answers. What is the actual spec GM says is normal oil psi range on a 2014 6.2. I never noticed before but sitting in a drive thru after driving an hour the oil psi was at 22-24psi. It goes up to 40 when driving and sometimes to 60 when accelerating hard. When it is a cold star It is always at 40psi then drops to 32-35 after 5-10 minutes of warm up. I must have never seen it go to 22psi before cause the inst cluster screen has been in technology page which doesn’t show oil psi. I have been looking at oil psi gauge more ofter since I had lifter fail a year ago. Before the lifter failure I am pretty sure I never saw my oil psi change from 40 no matter what

Yup checked that area and it’s ok. I will have to leave it alone until it starts to actually lose enough fluid to find it

My truck is at the shop now and they cannot find a leak anywhere and did a pressure test which came back of but there is a coolant smell through the grill once it is warmed up. Has anyone tried using a small amount of stop leaker in the radiator to atleast stop the coolant smell since none can find a leak or crack. I was going to try Blue Devil coolant stop leak which is a liguid and not the gel type of stuff . My garage reaks of coolant for a few hours after shutting it off.

I have been noticing a coolant smell through my grill and around the upper radiator hose for the past year but cannot find a leak and haven't had to add any coolant. I had to replace my thermostat last spring also. Where is the crack? Is this stress crack visible without taking radiator out. Also has anyone tried using something like a Blue Devil Coolant stop leak? Would a pressure test show where the crack is?

Yes it’s part of the procedure GM says needs to be done when lifter fails and is being replaced because it throws the solenoid timing out of spec

So I had a trans cooler line come off a week ago and spilled all over exhaust and undercarriage it is fixed and I was sick of the burning trans smell on the exhaust so I tried cleaning it off with brake clean. First drive after doing this once it warmed up it began idling rough at stops like was going to dye out and my exhaust stinks like rotten eggs. After 3rd cycle of turning off and on no more rough idle? No check engine light so I have no idea what happened. Could Blake clean fouled the O2 sensor causing rotten egg smell rough idle? I figured I would have check engine light if anything was wrong with O2 sensor

I had the same problem. I turned off the memory exit seat and memory recall. It hasn't happened in a month since turning these settings off so I am thinking it is the memory buttons on the door going bad or bcm glitch.

I cleaned my dry flow afe filter and the MAF sensor with MAF sensor cleaner and now I start the truck and oil psi is at 60psi and fan is on right away? Did the MAF sensor go bad?

BDS offers 6IN Fox coilovers. You could probbaly just buy the coilovers from BDS should fit with a Fabtech lift.

Anyone out there in Norhtern IL or Southern WI know of a Fox Coilover rebuilder and shock tuning service

$65 per housing. Have both left and right removed from 2014 Sierra in 2016. Perfect condition

Brushed aluminum steering wheel controls to work with heated steering wheel $100obo shipping included in US

GM part 23448523. Instrument cluster from 2014 Sierra SLT. Removed from truck in 2016. Perfect condition $175obo shipping included if in US

Shop just called and can’t find any oil fuel or exhaust leaks. They don’t smell anything so now I have to go pick it up and bring it in when the fumes are blowing through the ac for them to smell it. So annoying

I have a used oil and gas smell (same odor as the junk in the oil catch can) coming from my ac vents if recirculate is off. Engine bay smells the same. I thought it was the catch can fumes leaking so I removed the catch can but still have the odor. Any ideas? I check oil cap and connectors going to intake tube.

yes its correct mobil 1 filter, just changed the oil and put in mobil 1 0w-20 fuel economy blend which I was wondering if its the MPG oil blend that may be thinner? It was the only kind of Ow-20 that was in stock.

I was just on a 400 mi road trip and saw my Oil Psi go from 40 to 50 for just a second while cruising at 70 mph. It happen twice during the trip that I saw. I wasn't accelerating and never noticed this before. What would cause it to jump for a second?

Last week My driver mirror started tilting down on its own right after I would start the truck. I turned off the auto reverse mirror tilt function but it will either turn in or down after I back up then put in drive. I tried disconnecting battery to reset computer. But it still does it’s own thing. Then today after got home and turned truck off the mirror started title up. any ideas is there a module to replace for mirrors?

Last week My driver mirror started tilting down on its own right after I would start the truck. I turned off the auto reverse mirror tilt function but it will either turn in or down after I back up then put in drive. I tried disconnecting battery to reset computer. But it still does it’s own thing. Then today after got home and turned truck off the mirror started title up. any ideas is there a module to replace for mirrors?

I am intermittently hearing a ticking or tap sound from front passenger side when braking just before it stops and only if I tap brake harder last few feet and get a little nose dive. Shop confirms they also hear it but can’t diagnose it. They said it’s not the CV, ball joints, endlinks, sway bar bushing, brakes, tie rods. Everything is tight nothing loose. I can’t figure anything else it could be?