5RWill

Alright. The capacitors prevent flickering right? Should I get some anyway?

I guess, i asked them if i should've gotten capacitor links instead of the Canbus but haven't gotten a reply yet.

Like those black rhinos, really complements the truck.

Method Mesh Wheels are really really starting to grow on me,

Not going to be the diameter you need to worry about. It will be the width and offset of your rims. They're going to rub for sure without a level, and most likely with a level.

lol fair point, i imagine it would look like it was squatting. Just glancing at mine sometimes looks like the front end is higher than the rear. Really depends on the amount of factory rake you have. I thought i would see a noticeable amount of rake with 1", but i can hardly tell honestly.

I don't see the point in buying new shocks if your planning on running a spacer kit. The 5100s are meant for leveling the truck. Your talking about spending 70-150$ more than you have to for a spacer kit plus new shocks. The Shocks are meant to be used to level the truck without limiting suspension travel like a spacer. Plus they ride great on 1.85. I thought 1.85 wouldn't be enough but I was very wrong. It damn near looks like it's squatting at some angles. I can't imagine what the guys trucks with 2.5 front level looks like to me. I'm sitting at 38.5 front and 39.5 back pretty much

I haven't but have been wondering the same. Tried to find fuel anthracite Trophy rims on a Iridium Metallic truck for some time. Never found it.

If i still average 18-19 going back to starkville today it's a meh issue. One of the mechanics told me to watch it in the summer as the air dam helps draw up air into the engine to keep it cool, but meh. The truck moving does that. My old 2004 sierra had a radiator full of grain and wouldn't over heat while moving. You had to sit there in 95F and it would over heat. I love the way it looks without the air dam and running boards. Bigger tires are going to make it sit even higher. Little brother's friend has a 2.5" Level and 295/55/20 Trail Grapplers and compared to older model trucks you'd swear it was lifted. SOB sits so high. Can't wait to get my 285/70/17 RTs and new rims. Though i'm going to put all that on hold till i'm done with the DAT.

Max Ride height. IMHO great. Like i said you feel the more small bumps, but the larger ones are night and day difference. The truck is much more controlled and stable.

Air Dam and running board removed. Looks leveled alot more than i thought it would.

Air dam and running boards removed.

I agree i was 410$ at the dealer for installment of all four and alignment and i thought that was high as hell. Also spurshot and others have explained several times there is no more "pre-load" on the spring at stock than at full height, as the only thing ever weighing on the spring was the truck to begin with. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/153363-2014-leveling-kits/?p=1592482 I'm not sure what the "bunny hopping" referring to also. Are the shocks more firm? Yes. Are small bumps a little more stiff felt? Yes. Does the truck bounce and sway over medium-large bumps? No.

Riding my wranglers at 35ish. 37 on a warmer day. Comfortable to me.

I'll have to give them a call at 10am then. I placed an order for the Morimoto HID 9012 HID kit with 2x 9012 Can-bus, rather than the 9006 HD relay. Also didn't order any capacitors, i thought about getting two of them.

Just checked it once in cart it list the quantity of everything. 2 9012 Canbus included. Thought about capacitor links but figured i'll just get them if i notice flickering.

So do i need anything other than the kit? I know the 1st page said stand alone Canbus but says the kit comes with it? Or do i need another? What about a capacitor link, worth the buy?

So the Morimoto Elite HID kits only come with one bulb? So it's setup for one light per 150ish?

Leveled & Washed. Feel like i'm doing more harm than good when washing, keep finding little nicks everywhere and wondering if i'm causing them. Maybe it's the price of owning a dark color? Either way i'm about to change my washing technique. Need to start waxing too.

AZleveled (can't remember full name) is running Fuel Maverick 20s, 295/55/20 Open Country MTs and 2.5 Level Front only.

I can understand that, honestly i towed a trailer and fourwheeler and it leveled my truck. Makes me think that towing the same thing now it would sag.

I honestly suggest doing the rear yourself, will save you a so-called hour of labor time. Or that's what they charged, of which i didn't think it would take that long. I digress. What level are you running now? Do you plan to get new tires? I would go ahead and set them to maximum height honestly. Will save you the trouble/money of having to readjust if you ever want to.

I think 20s are too big IMHO, 18-17 is more my preference. I've read several complaints of a stiffer ride with spacer kits, and have felt the difference in my brothers truck. Granted he has the regular oem Chevy shocks, after his 2" spacer his truck road much worse. I read and read and read, and decided i would either do shocks or just go all out and do coilovers. I went with Bilsteins and granted it cost me 700$ (shocks + install) vs 350-400$ (RC 2.5 + install) i'm very satisfied. Had i had the money i would've grabbed some dirt logic coilovers, for a 2" lift. Though i think some of depends on the shock/spacer combo. I don't find that my cousin's 09 sierra with 295/70/17 Toyo MT and a 2.5" RC level rides that rough. My brothers however does.

Bilsteins on! Before After