smcgillis10

Fixed my vibration issue. Could feel the vibration coming from the drivers side. New hub assembly later and it rides perfect. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well my vibration is completely gone. Was tires of the dealership excuse. So I decided to try a few things myself. I started with swapping CV axles with new ones from the parts store. No change so I returned them. Then I replaced the drivers side hub assembly(wheel bearing) And all I have to say is POOF it's gone. Rides smoother then new. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If any of those last 4 positions are momentary switches I doubt the indicator will light up. But I know how to get them to light up if they work in the way I think they do. I think the indicator light circuit for the monetary switch is like this Witch would mean the connection pin for the switch has - or + going through it at different times. The way I think it works is like this. When you hit the switch it gives the BCM a Negative signal to turn whatever on. Then once the BCM turns on what it powers, the BCM sends a low voltage POSITIVE signal to the switch board using the same pin and then that turns on the indicator light. To find out for sure I would need to pull out my switch board and test it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was the one who soldered to the wire connections on the inside of the board. Was faster then finding the pins to install into the connector for the upfitter switch. They weren't readily available like they are now. Lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Read that post. Do why he did. You need to find the switch bank with most of the type of switches that you need. The adjustable pedal switch has contacts on top and bottom since the switch goes both ways. The best way to Get the results that you want is find a switch bank like the one from a fully loaded diesel. That switch bank will most likely have: Adjustable pedals (momentary up/down) Traction Control Cargo lights Parking Assist Hill Decent control Exhaust brake Then after that you would need to find out what type of contact is behind the last 4 switches (parking assist/hill decent/exhaust brake) They will either be latched or momentary. And both will work. Latched switches are easier Momentary needs a little more behind it. These are the two different switch types Latched Momentary To use the latched switched. You use them in line with a relay. Look up how a relay works and you'll understand. And ground side switch. The flow of power will be Battery-coil on relay - then to the switch. The latched switches ONLY control a negative signal. As in power flows through the relay coil then the switch. The switch DOES NOT SUPPLY POWER. Only supply's a ground. If you try to "not use a relay" you will burn up this switch board. Only a relay should be used to supply power to a light or whatever you plan to power. With the momentary switches you can use one of these. Didn't look long enough to find one in the us. http://www.abeltronics.co.uk/products/momentary-switch-to-latching-switch-converter-toggle-action-non-potted/fog-901np Or look up how to latch a relay with a momentary switch and have fun. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

With 6" lift and 35s. My average is between 11.2 and 13~. Doesn't get much better then that. Until I put my camper behind it. Then I don't even look at the MPG just fuel when I get below 1/2. With the camper. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What was the price off hand? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does anyone know where to get a touch up pen or something. There's bunch of rock chips on my truck and I want to get them fixed. Want to know my options before I go talk to a body shop. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's how low. I wanted it. Lol. My whole windshield is also tinted 50% Just an edge evolution cs Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I HAD to. I had a kid hit my tire and sheared the centering pin. Took a while to get it centered again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not sure if anyone responded but you can fix that. You have to loosen your u bolts and the centering pin on the leaf springs. The leafs and axle will move forward and back quiet a bit. Should fix your issue. I had this issue and was able to fix it with what I told you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All over the place. I live in Wyoming/Utah. So a lot of travel between there. And been to Indiana. And Tennessee and Missouri like 10 times Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm not talking about cv joint or drive lines. There's s needle / Torrington bearing (outside axle shaft bearing) looks like this. It's a type of needle bearing. this bearing uses the axle shaft as the dolling surface. These. Need to talk to the dealer to see what the proper timken part number is but pretty sure it's this one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No leaks at all. I'm a truck driver and away from my truck. When I go to head home I'm going to replace the bearing and hope the vibration goes away. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Miles are adding up quick. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know that joint is supposed to have movement. But it's just the stub axle I'm talking about. I can get it to move up and down in the case. Like that bearing isn't there. Like it's just flopping around. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I have this vibration and have felt with a lot of the stuff you guys have said. But I went under and was looking around and pushed up on the drivers side axle shaft that comes out of the diff. And it moved up and down /side to side about 1/8. From my understanding there is a needle bearing there and should not be doing that. What do you guys think? Pushing on this axle moves it a lot. This is the needle bearing location right behind the axle flange. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ground clearance. I've seen a lot of truck on here with huge lifts and only 35s. What's wrong with a 6" lift and 32s? That's still ~3" taller then The factory tires that were on here to begin with. Maybe some people like a medium tire on a lift? And last. It's not your truck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wanted a tire that was easier to come by. One that road better. Got good mileage out of them. And something that might give me a little better mileage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They are ~32" the 35s I had were only 34.5. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here's a look with it not jacked up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had dick cepek fun countries. In a 35/12.5r20. I dropped the size about 2.75 in or so. Didn't think it would look too small. But I guess it does. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They are a little small. But oh well. Rides 10x better then it did. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Needed a better tire.

It does what I need it to do. It adjusted for tires and gave me a little more fuel mileage with the lift. If you're happy with can tunes then it will be perfect. But if you want to change ALL the setting like transmission, then you're out of luck. It looks way better then the Diablo imo but the Diablo has better functions. Ive had it on my truck since I bought it in 2014. No issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk