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newbcakes

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  1. There are controls in the OE head unit; however, by reducing the bass to satisfy the subwoofer, you also reduce the bass to the rest of the system. This makes the fronts and door speakers sound very tinny and base muddy.
  2. @truckguy82 this may be the first. Here is what Kicker support said in an email reply to me: "you must use the bass control or equalizer on the OEM headunit to adjust that product. If you have any further questions let me know. Have a great day."
  3. Hey guys, thanks for the replies. I don't think the sub I purchased has any plugs or dip switches on the onboard amp. The two leads are tapped into two wires (not RCA).
  4. I purchased and installed the kicker sub from the chevy accessories site. It adds a lot, but makes the fronts unbalanced. I need to reduce the base otherwise it overpowers the system, and by reducing the base the fronts become a tinny mess. There are only 4 wires to connect it: power, ground and 2 leads from a wiring harness in the drivers side kick panel. Is it possible to bridge the 2 leads with a volume control knob to essentially control the signal strength to the sub? I'm almost regretting my purchase as it took me ~4 hours to install it and it's not the greatest. I would rather have purchased a few separate components for the independent controls. Hoping there's a solution. btw, it is in no way "plug and play". Thanks.
  5. Looking for a grille, GM part 23207684. Fits 2016-2019 Chev 2500 HD. Thanks.
  6. old post, but JL Audio makes a stealth box that goes in the center console, if you have a center console.
  7. I'm looking for a used grille (GM 23207684), either to purchase or swap. I have the 2019 LTZ/Z71 grille. I've had success swapping rims before, perhaps someone is interested in swapping grilles, or has one they'd be interested in selling for a reasonable price? local used auto parts do not have any and my understanding is the grille is interchangeable from 2016 through 2019. New prices are a bit too steep to justify the expense. I'm near Fredericksburg, VA. Thx.
  8. I appreciate this info, curious if you might have any insight as to whether the 5.3 has the 9.76" axle (or where I can find that information on my truck)? Looks like I'll have the 9.5" axle (based on this article)...
  9. That's interesting... if that's the case, how could I verify the GRAWR was based on a tire rating... or that the OE tire rating may have reduced the GRAWR rating? The OE tires were Continential CrossContact EcoPlus. Looking them up on tirerack, they're rated at a max load of 2,403lbs. Since then I've replaced them with Michelin Defender LTX's with a rating of 3,640lbs. What does that mean for me? (Other than the obvious!) The original tire size is a 275/55 R20. I added a leveling kit and a larger tire: 285/60 R20. The larger tire has a considerably higher max weight rating.
  10. This is with the air bags. Without, it sags considerably. Donstar - it was an Airstream dealer who set up and also recommended I not put any more weight on the WD hitch. With that said, I just looked at the hitch weight again and the brochure shows 903lbs. I would think that's easily mitigated by the WD hitch and standard suspension of the truck. Maybe I'll swing back by the dealership, though I have nothing good to say about them.
  11. Probably, but I'm worried about too much stress on the WD hitch. Before I added the air bags it had started to fold/shave the metal of the spring arms. This is my hitch: There was so much stress on the top "pin" where the spring arm connects to the ball mount that the metal was shaving off after only 3-4 tows. I think mine is 10K rated, I'll need to go look at it when the sun comes up!
  12. Front axle was around 3300. Lighter than I’d like, but RV dealership didn’t recommend any more torque on the hitch. The 950lbs of tongue weight isn’t favorable.
  13. I have a 2014 Silverado 1500, 5.3L double cab, 4wd, which I use to tow a ~6000lb travel trailer. The travel trailer has a heavy tongue weight at roughly 950lbs. I have a E2 load transferring hitch that probably takes ~300lbs off the tongue and transfers it to other axles. I still wasn't happy with the visible stress on the hitch, so I added air bags to the rear axle. The air bags have addressed the sagging rear end and have really cleaned up the bouncy feel while driving with the trailer and I'm happy with them (in fact, I recommend them!). Last weekend I hooked it up to go camping and decided to drive it on the truck scale to get axle weights. The rear axle was right at 4000 lbs, or 50lbs over the GRAWR. I didn't have much in the bed of the truck (however, it has a fiberglass cap), no kids in the cab (100lbs each x2), I actually think it was a lighter load than normal... and I'm over the weight rating. I learned that the "Max trailering package" offers a towing mirror & larger rear-end. Along with it is a 4300lb axle rating, but I don't have that on this truck. With the new body style 2019's, Chevrolet has dropped the axle rating to 3800lbs from 3950. So I'm not sure if I want to rush to find an "old style" (2014-2018) truck with the Max trailering package before they're all gone... or am I really staring down a 3/4 ton pickup to tow my 6000lb travel trailer? Or am I reading the GRAWR wrong? Thanks.
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