I have 285/70/18 toyo muds on zero offset aftermarket wheels right now. I'm leveled and they only rub at full turn sometimes. They were installed on my factory +44 offset wheels when I first got them. I did level the front, but I'd guess they wouldn't have rubbed if I left the front end stock. I have a 2015 2500.
DMAXNAZ posted a topic in Audio, Electronics, OnStar, MyLink, Intellilink & SiriusXMI have a 2015 GMC 2500 Crew Cab. Had anybody done subs in this vehicle, other than under the rear seat? I'm pretty sure my interior is the same from 2015 to 2019.
https://www.customwheeloffset.com/wheel-offset-gallery?order=&make=Chevrolet&model=Silverado+2500+HD&year=2017&suspension=Leveling+Kit&wheel_diameter_from=20&wheel_width_from=10.0&tire_height_from=305&wheel_diameter_to=20&wheel_width_to=10.0&tire_height_to=305&page=1 Here is a good search for you to check out
Will have to find a tire you like and llok up the specs. I was searching last weekend and some of the same size tires of the same brand and style have differt ratings. For example check out a toyo mt 35x12.5x18.
The diff drop is new to me for a torsion cranked leveled truck. I had over 100K on my last 2500 when I sold it, and it was cranked from day one with no diff drop. I know I can get the spacers for $40 and have them installed in under an hour, but is it actually needed?? I don't seem to feel any vibration from the front end that would tell me I might need to do this mod. Is it just a piece of mind thing?? On my last truck I replaced the idler and pitman at 70K. I did install the supports when that replacement took place. It was hard to understand how they actually worked until I installed them and you could see how they would help. Even looking at a picture you can't really tell. I would appreciate any feedback on either mod if possible.
Happy Saturday DMAXNAZ,
Your truck looks great, this is the 3rd GMC Sierra I have had and they have all had the typical rake, my 2018 seems to be the worst. After measuring, I have a 3 to 3.25" difference between the front and the rear. it is very noticeable. On my 08, I utilized the OEM green keys, they are clocked differently and I only had to crank on them a couple of turns to bring the difference between front and rear to about .5". The original difference on this truck between the front and rear was 2.0" I also installed Bilstein 5100's all the way around and didn't compromise the ride quality, in fact it got a little better.
I know that most guys that I talk to are pushing the upper control arm kits with new keys, I know that I can just crank up the original keys and make this rake better if not go away, but don't really want to sacrifice the ride quality on a month old truck, and yes I can keep throwing parts at it to bring back the ride quality, I also don't like the idea of modifying the frame of a 60K truck. If the long term goal is to install upper control arms, I'm better off purchasing them included in a kit instead of by themselves, it will be the most cost effective way, since they are about $500.00 when purchased separately.
You had mentioned that next time you would just do a rear lowering kit, can you go into detail about this?
I know that most of the 3" Suspension Lifts (aka new keys and UCA), come with each manufacturers own brand name shocks, some have upgraded shock options. I looked at Suspension Max, Ready Lift, Zone, Cognito, Rancho, Tuff Country and Rough Country. Rough Country seems to the most effective way to go, I talked to them about the upper ball joints, they are press fit Moog and are replaceable. My only question, is there brand name shocks, I know most guys that have installed this kit, they have not put too many miles on them yet.
When I first put my 285/70/18 tires on my stock wheels I was surprised how much room there was after cranking the front. I know they could have fit without cranking. It's been a couple years, but I think it was Cowpie maybe who dropped his rear 2 inches. Now the rake is mostly gone, and no ride quality sacrificed.
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