Atlas

Right. But how would one figure what's worse. High levels of metal and other debris in the oil as the engine completes its first few hundred miles of duty, or maintaining a high level of detergent by changing the oil.

Bought the truck new, but it had been sitting 5 months on the lot and was probably moved, idled, and run for short bursts about a billion times. OLM said 95% when I got it; no way of knowing if it was reset, or if the oil was changed at some point. I suppose calling the dealer and asking is an option. Or.. It's got 308 miles on it now and I've got everything to do an oil change if needed. On a previous truck I did 500, 2500, 5000, then every 5k after that. But I'm not sure for the first couple if that's too soon. 5k thereafter seems to be a good balance between being well under the OLM recommendation, and not introducing too much detergent (new oil) too often. I've always used "synthetic" (AcD labeled "full synthetic" or Mobil 1 "full synthetic" - which, as I understand, may or may not be "fully synthetic" but nonetheless seem to perform well for the intended duration, and the ones I use also check the box for using GM-whitelisted oils ala various Dexos spec. Change at 500? or too much too soon? This is for a 2020 5.3 with DFM

I'm not interested in lifting or leveling mine, but I did notice how floaty the rear end is. Feels like the shocks are really, really soft in the rear, and am having a hard time figuring out if it's a defect or why GM would do that. Major motion going over large seams and bumps. So....it's a Rancho thing?

I just replaced mine with a 4" Stubby. Same issue as OP...garage door height barely clears roof, and OE antenna drags. https://www.cravenspeed.com Superior customer service from these folks. The one they sent wouldn't thread on. Either it was wrong, or as they said, there are 2 different thread patterns in use for 20's and 21's. Either way, they sent me the variant model free of charge and made the exchange super easy. Very quick to respond, quick to ship. With *any* shorter antenna, your reception will be affected. Most notably, AM stations in rural areas will be hard to get. If you are in-town and mostly listen to FM, you shouldn't notice much if any loss except maybe for some distant FM stations. XM or other signals are unaffected - different antenna for those.

Old thread, but maybe still worth posting for others looking for a more "official" solution. I won't debate the merits and potential drawbacks of capless fuel filler necks. But there can arguably be a case for preventing crimes of opportunity and/or vandalism by closing off access. AcD makes a locking plug for the capless necks. I'm not sure if you have to use the locking feature to secure it. Personally, I'd prefer to only lock when I felt it is necessary, and not have to carry an extra key on my ring every time I need to fill the truck. Someone else can order one and report back. Part number is GT377 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10480808&cc=3445631&jsn=1249

Based on what I know about the 2.4-specific issues and AFM issues is they are separate and a lot more complex than "Dexos sucks", a summary in fewer words based on your ranting about the spec. But explaining the actual complexity of the issue wouldn't support that narrative. You should mention the weak rings put in at the factory. You should mention a poorly designed PCV system and issues with oil being sucked into brake boosters causing the diaphragm to fail. You should also mention the lack of maintenance, ignorance of recommended change intervals, and lack of adherence to even minimum Dexos spec oil in many cases. With regards to AFM, you should talk about oil pressure. You might want to mention deposit formation with regards to direct injection. And high mileage, minimally maintained vehicles with AFM where the filter for the VLOM became clogged, or where it became clogged to no fault of the owner who did actually maintain the vehicle, except for that part. You are absolutely wrong about reasons for ditching ICEs for electric. It's an industry-wide exploration fueled by politics and potential profit, but I can see where that might go, and I'm absolutely not interested in hearing what you have to say. I'm going to maintain my vehicles how I see fit, and you should do yours. Convincing some guy on the internet at this point about oil is no longer worth my time, but I did show up to say you are making false statements and accusations based on an authority you claim to have. Hmm. So this is where I say, "No thank you, I'm not interested in your book of lies and fairytales" and then shut the door.

Ecotec's don't go over 100k? Really? Then why do I know people who run them (who also wouldn't know what an Amsoil is, they change their oil when the light comes on) and they have over 100k on the original engines. Hmm? I'll wait while you come up with something. Are you making stuff up? To defend an oil brand? This just gets weirder, every post.

I prefer a button shifter...reminds me of the Allison controls on a lot of older and newer heavy trucks. If GM isn't doing physical linkages anymore, button-shift on the dash seems like an intuitive way to go. A t-handled console shifter is just taking up valuable space.

Absolute rubbish. People do UOA's at OLM-prescribed intervals with all kinds of oil brands and find that the oil is still doing its job, amsoil not required. No reason to believe an engine couldn't last (and, they have...) to 1M miles on non-amsoil OE oil spec and change intervals. Amsoil is another quality synthetic like so many others on the market. And that's where it ends.

Sorry to hear it wasn't a great truck for you. Better luck with whatever you go with next!

Horsefeathers. Major oil brands will get an engine down the road for hundreds of thousands of miles. Strawman arguments and the boogeyman's chemistry analysis need not apply.

That's a lot of spit to say you like Amsoil. If you want to throw your money at it, great. Just don't pretend like there aren't more cost-effective ways to maintain an engine. Sport. Do us a favor and hit the "left justified" button so not everything you write looks like a poem.

General motors provides my powertrain warranty for the first 5 years or 60k miles of the truck's service life. That's why I don't necessarily believe them on anything, but I do follow their spec in order to be blameless and pure in the event of a major warranty claim. Amsoil 0w20 is going for $7.99/quart on their website. AcDelco 0w20 Dexos Gen 2 Full Synthetic is $4.25/quart on Rockauto. Mobil 1 0w20 AFE Dexos Gen 2 Full Synthetic is $6.32/quart *before rebate* on Rockauto. Common sense, as they say, isn't so common. If I keep my truck for 200k miles, which would be a record for me, and I can lower the cost of oil changes by just less than 50%, while meeting the exact oil spec, why would I buy a product which is not only more expensive, it doesn't carry the certification. Meanwhile, the manufacturer says they're "saving me money", which, based on comparable product which meets the manufacturer's requirements, just isn't true. But by all means, if someone wants to pay more for motor oil because they like the way the bottle looks, and doing so makes them feel both virtuous and righteous, I suppose it's cheaper than therapy in the long run...

Thanks. I emailed them and they provided me the full list of RPO's/build sheet for my truck. SU4 and SU7, so, AAM axles on my '20.

I scanned the QR code on my door sticker which does not appear to contain supplier RPO codes for the axles. It confirms GU5, Axle ratio 3.23 which I already knew, but I'm trying to identify who made the axles (GM or AAM) so I know what fluid to put in when I do post- break in maintenance on them. There are no SU_ codes listed which I read in other threads may identify the axle supplier. Any ideas?

Sorry to hear about all the troubles. I really don't enjoy the auto start/stop feature, but I agree, it should work. Makes me wonder if there isn't an undiagnosed issue like a parasitic drain (do you have any non-factory accessories?) that could be pulling down the battery voltage to charging territory and keeping the "ass" (that's my acronym for it) from working. One thing you could try without taking it to the dealer is leaving the truck plugged into to a battery tender overnight. In the morning it should be fully charged. If auto start/stop is working with the battery fully charged then quits working after a few days, that might shed light on the issue. You are correct, though, under warranty this is the dealer's issue and they should be figuring it out. The back/forth has the unfortunate effect of wasting a lot of time and raising blood-pressure un-necessarily.

Save us the whining. People all over are buying these trucks for less than MSRP. I've never understood why those who cry and moan about California so much insist on staying there. Probably for the same reason you can't seem to find a discounted truck, or in a nearby state.

Hi All...just bought a Silverado with the 40/20/40 setup in front. Seats are cloth, heated. Does anyone here run seat covers, and do they affect the seat heaters much? What kind of covers? (i.e. do you not feel much heat through the cover, or does it work just OK, or no noticeable difference at all?). I just want to save the side bolsters from wear and protect the fabric from the couple times per year I might get into the truck with clothes dirty from working outside. TIA for any suggestions!

Advantages and disadvantages. Husky plastic liner = will not hold salt, grease, dirt or water, and can be sprayed completely clean, and will not hold that gunk up against any metal, which may cause corrosion and rust. I'd prefer them for that reason alone. They may be slightly noisier when driving in wet conditions. The fabric ones are likely better at abating noise. IMO if you live in a winter climate where they heavily salt the roads, rear wheel liners are a MUST have. I actually find it hard to believe they are "optional". All it takes is a couple of good rock dings to allow rust to start biting into the wheelhouse and box.

I had the bench seat in my K2 and again in the T1. The flip-fold center armrest/console thing used to have 3 giant cupholders and is now down to 2. There are 2 more (maybe more?) in the doors, but I typically don't use those. Not sure what the trucks with 2 buckets and a true center console had. 3 was about perfect. A coffee for the road, a soda for later, a spot for a passenger's drink, or if it was just me, my wallet/phone fit into a cupholder perfectly. Just an observation, not necessarily a gripe.

Around here, if you can find one, the 1500's have the current GM incentive which is about $4k. Popular builds are hard to come by, and it's unlikely you'll negotiate more off than that. I just picked up one of the last 2020's which had been sitting on the lot for more than 5 months. Total incentive was almost $6k off MSRP. Not sure why it sat so long...it was PDI'd in december and only had 50 miles on it when I bought it. Not a dealer trade, either. I was expecting 2nd stickers and maybe not finding the truck I wanted. Saw this one and bought it on the spot!

I'm the opposite...just got into a new T1 and thought to myself, this is what the K2 should have been! The seating position and column adjustability both feel very different, but I like it. I haven't owned the K2 since 2017, so maybe I'm imagining this, but the T1 seems to ride a lot softer and more floaty. K2 was just an LT, my T1 is a Z71. I do miss having 3 big cupholders in the center armrest, versus 2 in the new one.

Yesterday afternoon: Filled up for the first time since leaving the dealership last week. 20.9 gallons, 430 miles for an average economy of just over 20mpg on a brand new truck with not a whole lot of freeway driving. For the size and power this truck has, I'm impressed. Then, I took it home and washed it, got all the fingerprints off the dash (people love to touch the inside of new cars..), cleaned the new-truck film off the inside of the windows, checked all the fluids again, and set the tire pressure to 35 on all 4 tires. They were inflated too high from the dealer...almost 40psi when cold.