LSXTC

Yes, ill get a pic of it. As for the straight hoses, I was kind of limited by the length that they sent me. I'll correct it and give it more slack when I get the correct hoses and fittings for the job to be done right.

Unfortunately, it is the solution, that's still not even 100%, in relation to attempting to keep intake valves clean on a DI motor. Power loss and gumming up of valves is directly correlated to the vehicle, but for the average DI motor Id say a cleaning should be done every 30k miles at most. Modifying any emissions related component is illegal, so no, disabling pcv and running a vacuum pump would not be legal.

I knew going into it that this was a generic kit. I have yet to contact RX about the fittings and hoses...for all I know they may make it right by sending me the correct stuff. Deposits are a big deal. They are a problem in every DI motor out there. My bmw has had to be cleaned numerous times. Cleaning the valves isn't an awful deal when the manufacturer acknowledges the issue and develops tools to take care of it. For bmw it is a rool that consists of a few parts and the short of it is that you close the valve you're working on, then blast crushed walnut shells into the port and on the valve using compressed air, this cleans the valve, and simultaneously you have a vacuum hooked up to the tool that extracts the small pieces of walnut shell. If by chance small shell gets left the engine burns em up and spits em out. Well designed catch cans are a necessity on DI motors. Or you could ditch the whole pcv system all together and use a vacuum pump system to extract crankcase vapors. This would eliminate every chance of your valves getting coked up with gunk.

Yes, the monster can is a dual valve setup, it does come with the dual check valves. If you like my mounting location it is easy to make an adapter bracket. I could probably even make you one and send it to you. For what it's worth, I love the location I chose to mount it. The bracket I made works very well. At some point I might make a stronger bracket, or a support bracket for the bottom side that will attach to the battery tray.

It's all good!! Thank you for caring enough to raise a flag when you thought something was wrong. Im glad that only thing wrong with my setup is how rednecked and hacked together the hoses are due to the rx kit not having appropriate fittings or hose lengths. I'll correct that sometime, the important thing now is that it's on and functional.

I think you're getting lines crossed in the picture. I have it hooked up as per the RX instructions, found here: http://www.rxspeedworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/GM-5.3-6.2-Install-Diagram.pdf I also used this thread for reference: http://www.silveradosierra.com/vortec-6-2l-v8/2014-and-up-owners-t200081.html I have the two valve covers connected via a "bridge hose". The center connection in the can runs to the Pcv extraction barb in the valley. One outside can connection runs to the barb behind the throttle body as primary vacuum, with check valve flowing away from the can. Other outside can connection runs to the intake tube as secondary vacuum, check valve flowing away from the can. The clean side seperator hose runs to the intake tube.

Just installed my RX monster can and clean side seperator this weekend. I'm happy with it, however I am unhappy that not enough hose was included, not enough hose clamps, insufficient mounting bracket, and lacking the correct and needed hose couplings. I'm going to have to go back through it at some time and clean it up with the correct hose sizes/lengths and fittings. In my opinion there is far too much crossing over from 3/8" hose to 5/8" hose to 3/4" hose with this kit. I understand they are not application specific, but I paid damn good money for this setup and I expect it to be right. How I'm going to correct it is: 3/8" hose from the valley nipple, and an appropriately sized 3/8" AN fitting on the can 3/8" hose from the upper nipple, and an appropriately sized 3/8" AN fitting on the can. The secondary vacuum line going from the can to the Airaid intake tube will remain 5/8" and I'll get a 5/8" MNPT 90* fitting to screw in to the intake tube so that it can go direct from the can to the tube with no neck down. The hose from the CSS to the intake tube is going to be 3/8" the whole way, I just need to get a 3/8" MNPT fitting for the intake tube. The mounting bracket I made works very well. The can is located in the second battery location with plenty of room for access to the headlight bulb and plenty of clearance to drain the can as well.

I got the DDM Ultra Canbus kit. In the reading that I have done I have come to the conclusion that using a relay harness is uncessary on this kit due to the ballast design changes requiring less current draw/spike on startup. I've got a question regarding the necessity of a relay harness when installing the higher quality DDM kit. Is a harness really necessary for every kit out there? Should I be OK to install the ultra canbus kit without a relay harness? The Canbus kit is a 250 MHz kit, so this might reduce the need to use capacitors. I purchased some anyway as a precaution in case I have glitches during the initial install, where I do not plan to use them. Is my logic very flawed here? Should I just install with a relay harness and capacitors, or should I experiment the way I intend to and see if it turns out well without the additional parts/pieces?