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abominable z71

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Everything posted by abominable z71

  1. abominable z71
    That is correct. You will piss out all your fluid and burn up up the the T-case if you try to drive it with the rear drive line removed.
  2. abominable z71
    Probably because the more of the titan is american made , not sure about your truck but mine is from Mexico
  3. abominable z71
    Yeah they were every bit of 450 bucks shipped with tax and a pain in the ass to install I think I may have posted a brief description of the installation process after I put them on. Don't go down that avenue. On a different note I noticed GM customer care was the most recent visitor to my profile page. Talk about a useless profession.
  4. abominable z71
    LoL, Yeah I have bit of money tied up in guinea pigging things. Should have bought a Rolex instead.
  5. abominable z71
    I have them, don't waste your money they didn't help with the vibration issue.
  6. abominable z71
    The 14's and 15's used 2 different ball joints depending on which front end they have. The all aluminum front end with aluminum knuckles used larger ball joints than the steel front ends. Could be the 16's with the stamped arms are using the same ball joints as the aluminum front ends. When I bought my UCA's from Cognito they said the aluminum front end used the same ball joint as the 8 lug HD. I can't verify this but they do make UCA's for both models and my arms fit properly on the truck, I have the aluminum front suspension. Another thing to note if you look at the lift kits for the 14-17 GM trucks they now have them split into lifts for either the forged steel arms or the aluminum and stamped steel arms which leads me to believe the stamped arms have the same ball joint as the aluminum otherwise they wouldn't fit the same spindle. So if you go back to stock lowers and spindles with a coil over you just need a new UCA designed for the forged aluminum arm. The Cognito's are great arms if you go that route.
  7. abominable z71
    Unfortunately I think the only way to truly find the issue with each truck is to hang new parts on it til it goes away but this an expensive and time consuming way of finding the issue, and the fix for the few guys that have fixed their issue is very hit and miss for everyone else that tries it. i was going down this avenue when I finally got fed up wasting my time and money but I keep an eye on this thread for a fix or other things to try that won't break the bank but I have to come to terms with dealing with it until it comes time to replace the truck and then look at another manufacture.
  8. abominable z71
    I find it hard to believe they don't know what the issue is. My guess is the fix is expensive or difficult and since it's a small number of vehicles an actuary somewhere has crunched the numbers and determined it's cheaper to buy back a few trucks and go on not admitting there is an issue, they know few people have the issue and fewer still are willing to go through the lengths required for a buy back. Unless it affects the bottom line or causes some deaths this platform will be made for another couple years and replaced by a redesign without a true fix ever coming to light. It would be nice if there was whistle blower in the GM ranks that leaked out a document stating what the issue is, if such a document even exists, it may be such a small percentage they haven't invested the time to figure out what the issue is, unlikely considering they don't want to carry it over to the next design since they do use some parts from one design to the next.
  9. abominable z71
    The classic gm shake or vibration. Well everyone was hoping they had it figured out for the 15 model year, then the 16 model year, 17's are now out, maybe they figured it out for the 17's LOL. Maybe your dealer will find something that fixes your issue but results haven't been encouraging through out the years. Good Luck.
  10. abominable z71
    That is the most simple way to check it for sure. Take 3 readings one about 6 inches in from each end and one dead center of the shaft. Mark the shaft in all three places so you know when you've spun the shaft a full 360 degrees. Mark the high the high and low point at each location and record your measurements. Subtract the high from the low and that's your total run out. Next step is to disconnect the drive shaft from the pinion flange and rotate it 180 degrees an reconnect it to the pinion flange. Repeat the same process of measurement in the same three locations. If the high and low point are in the same spot and total run out measurements are within .002" of the originals you have a pretty accurate run out measurement. If the measurements have changed and the high and low points have switched places the problem is in the pinion flange and likely the pinion flange is off center meaning the mounting ears for the u joint on the pinion flange are not concentric about the pinion shaft. Another method is to do like snoring bear mentioned jack the truck up and run it up to speed and see if it shakes. Another method is to use 2 hose clamps round the shaft, The worm gear portion of the clamp creates an eccentric imbalance. Rotate them in 90 degree increments until the vibrations goes away or lessens then fine tune their location, This is the most time consuming way to do it basically the guess and check method. The old EVA 2 vibration analyzer GM used to use had a feature that used a strobe light for balancing a drive shaft with hose clamps and piece of reflective tape. If you look on youtube you can find videos of driveshaft balancing on the truck using an EVA or EVA2. I've checked the driveshaft 10 ways from sunday on my truck and I know its not the source of my issue. Definitely not saying it couldn't be the source for others though.
  11. abominable z71
    Shake or Vibration is merely semantics. Periodic displacement of a rigid body regardless of how high or low the frequency may be is a vibration. Call it a "shake" if you like. I never discounted your finding, I believe GM allows .020" of run out on their drive shafts which 1/16 is way out of spec. I gave a little more thought to your straw analogy and you make an excellent point regarding the ends not being perpendicular to the shaft or parallel to one another but the shaft still showing to be balanced. You can balance anything even a square tire but anyone knows the ride would be terrible but as long as the CG is inline with the rotational axis it will balance this can compensate for the bend in the shaft especially if you chuck the drive line around the main tube itself as opposed to the u joints (which I believe is how the typically do it) to perform the balance but once you connect it to the the u joints on the pinion flange and slip yoke in the truck the CG will move and you now have an imbalance causing a shake or vibration. Whats really odd is this should have showed on a vibration analysis, although my experience is most dealerships don't have any idea how to use the equipment properly, it's like they invest in the equipment not in the training to use it properly. I don't doubt this fixed your issue but I don't believe it to be the only thing on these trucks out of spec causing NVH issues. Many have noted that trucks vibrate worse in the heat and less or not at all in the cold, Rubber and plastics are the most susceptible to changes in their physical properties under moderate temperature swings a slight change in these properties can be enough to cause resonance especially if the were designed real close to the natural frequency. That being said a lot of people have mentioned a change in the body mounts would just masking the real issue, this is not necessarily true everything that rotates vibrates proper damping is why you don't feel it and these body mounts might not be properly designed. Case in point some motor mounts required a 3 mm shim because customers were feeling motor vibrations at idle. No one ever said well they're just masking the real problem that the motor just vibrates too much at idle and that something must be done to fix the engine, build a motor that doesn't vibrate and you don't need motor mounts at all.
  12. abominable z71
    If the PICO is picking up a T1,T2 or T3 vibration. Its not possible for it to be the driveshaft for a T1 or T2. The angular velocity is too low to coincide with a driveshaft. A T3 vibration is a possible driveshaft vibration but only for a truck with a 3.08 ring and pinion because the shaft is spinning at very close to 3x the tire angular velocity. However if the truck has a 3.42 or 3.73 gear set the drive shaft is spinning too fast to be mistaken for T1,2 or 3 vibration. It's just not physically possible for a dive shaft rotating at say 43 Hz at 72 mph to induce a vibration reading at 13 26 or 39 Hz. Congrats on getting yours figured out though too bad most are not so lucky. The body mounts on these trucks have been suspect since the beginning, the real question would be why only a handful of them have resonance issues.
  13. abominable z71
    I have seen 325 65 18 KO2's (35x13) on a truck in a parking lot, Factory wheels with a level. Factory wheels are also a +27. I never saw the owner to ask about rubbing issues or if he had to make any mods to the fenders. On a side note I've posted this a few time but from my own experience 285 65 18 with 2.5" level and -6 BS clears with no mods. -12 BS rubs in reverse at full lock but can be cleared by Zip tying the wheel well liner back. That being said, If you crunch the numbers... A 325 60 18 is 12.8" wide 33.35" tall and a 285 65 18 is 11.5" wide and 32.6" tall. With 0 BS a 325 sticks out 6.4" from the hub face while a 285 with -12 BS sticks out 6.1". So the 325 on a +0 BS plus the additional 3/8" from the bigger diameter will certainly rub whether it's just the liner or it gets into the fender I couldn't tell you. The other things that play a role are tire manufacture and rim width. When the manufacture specifies a section width like 13" you typically see an approved rim width range like 9-(10)-12 the number in paranthesis is the width they used when making the measurements using a narrower rim will result in a narrower section measurement so the 325 might measure 13" on a 10" wide wheel but only 12.5" on a 9 inch, it may seem small but could be the difference between a slight rub and hitting the sheet metal. Offset is always the biggest factor in whether a wheel and tire combo will clear. One other thing to note is a lot of positive offset with really wide tires you start to run into rubbing on suspension parts namely the sway bar. I've heard of this happening with 305's on factory wheels.
  14. abominable z71
    You need some upper control arms and a drop kit for your front diff if you want to continue running your suspension like that. i have a 3 inch level on mine with Cognito upper control arms and 1" drop for the front diff. The factory ball joint cant handle the angle as well as the increased moment created by heavier tires and the additional off set from the wheel spacers. i went with Cognito because they offer a heavy duty ball joint and are designed for 2" of additional droop. The zone arms in that picture I believe are for an HD and will not fit your truck. To my knowledge Zone does not build an arm for the K2XX 1500's. your options are ready lift, cognito, fab-tech, rough country, superlift, mcguaghys. Most companys want to sell you a 3" to 4" kit with the arms included. If you look in my gallery there's a pic of the cognito installed. Great quality, with a moog ball joint that's greasable and bolts to the control arm making it easily replaceable as well. A little spendy but worth the money. i would stay away from the cheaper stuff from Rough country and Superlift but thats my 2 cents. Also if you look at arms with uni-balls, they are stronger and allow more misalignment but require more maintenance and really were designed for race applications where the front end is torn apart and serviced regularly. i have 25000 miles on the Cognitos with no issues.
  15. abominable z71
    I would say an improvement but not a fix, they are still there and just like before they come and go in intensity. Sometimes it's smooth, other times it shakes but not nearly as severe as before i started swapping things and not nearly as bad as some of the videos I have seen over the last couple years. Temperature seems to play a role as well as fuel level just like many others have stated.
  16. abominable z71
    Everything was done on the truck, truing and balancing. I read a lot of people claiming increased wear mileage on top of a smoother ride after truing the tires so I gave it shot. So far I have 30000 miles on the tires and they still have over half their tread. I was looking at replacing the 1-1/2" nylon pucks used for my body lift with either rubber or polyurethane with shore hardness of 65A but haven't had the time to mess with it. Maybe one day
  17. abominable z71
    They typically use sleep deprivation and water boarding. Seriously though the use a device with a razor blade that takes a thin layer of the tread off. A lot like a lathe.
  18. abominable z71
    I hope it works out for you, i went down the same avenue. only one shop left in town that does an on the vehicle balance I took it one step further and had them true the tires to eliminate run-out then balance them on the vehicle but alas the vibration is still there and comes and goes in intensity. Makes me wonder if it is a bearing issue in the front hubs.
  19. abominable z71
    Yeah after seeing his post I started considering replacing the hubs again. I did something similar with the front drive shafts except i removed them completely to eliminate them as a possible source but stopped there. I couldn't convince myself to buy a 200 dollar front hub assembly but I'm reconsidering. Hard to buy a part from GM when you know the parts they make and install are of suspect quality control to begin with.
  20. abominable z71
    The wheels are not machined for a flat lug nut and the clearances are between the stud holes in the rim are too large. Put a wheel on the hub without lug nuts and rotate it back and forth, there is nothing to take up that slop you feel using a lug nut that's not lug centric you rely completely on the normal force and friction between the face of the rim and the lug nut itself and because the rim is machined for lug centric there isn't a whole lot of surface area for a flat lug to tighten up against.
  21. abominable z71
    Silver spaceship, You're the OP for the vibration forum, you're a legend. Whatever became of your vibration issue?
  22. abominable z71
    Everything listed here has been brought up in the past as well. Somewhere in the 650 pages of posts. I personally brought up all the same points and measured runout on everything. Found runout issues with the hub stud center but at the time new hub assemblies were not readily available and were expensive. To fix the front runout issues requires a complete new assembly to fix the rear requires new axle shafts and I couldn't convince myself to spend the money for one reason, The hubs are not lug centric and the wheels center on the pilot which I found to be right on the money however what is strange GM used lug centric style lug nuts that will pull the wheel in one direct but only as far as the clearance between the rim and pilot will allow. i keep coming back to the hubs as well but haven't convinced myself to replace them because I'm not sure a new assembly will have any better tolerances than the ones on the truck right now. For the rear I looked at new shafts from Yukon 275 dollars each plus the labor to open the diff and unclip them which also means new gear oil making the whole endeavor somewhat expensive and time consuming. Attached is picture I took after measuring runout. The green line is the high point for the stud circle at .010" I used my mititoyo dial indicator with .0005" resolution to make the measurements. If you look closely you will see a pink line right next to the green, that pink line was there from the factory. This tells me GM knows these trucks are sensitive and shake and they are trying to minimize it before it leaves the factory by finding runout and trying to match low spots on the wheel assembly with the high spots on the hub to minimize the overall assembly runout. I'd be interested to know what you find if you measure yours and if you ultimately change hubs if it fixes the issue. Good luck. BTW I used the vib sensor app on my phone as well, my vibrations are third order 40 Hz at 75 MPH. Not nearly as bad as many videos I've seen but annoying none the less they come and go depending on temperature, weight in the bed and I think phasing plays a role as well but they fall below GM's acceptable limit so the dealer won't do anything.
  23. abominable z71
    You will likely rub on a -12 but probably could get away with the zip tie method. 285 65 18 on -12 fuels has minor rub full lock in reverse with a 2.5" level. -6 offset racelines cleared with same tire same level. tires are Toyo AT II .
  24. abominable z71
    They don't have an exact torque spec but more of a procedure. This is from my memory but you can find it somewhere on this site. I believe you torque them to 59 ft-lbs. After they are all at 59 ft-lbs you then turn each nut an additional 130 degrees. not sure if this is the exact procedure but it's something along these lines. I have mine at 78 ft-lbs and from where they were from the factory to 78 it took almost 3 full turns to get them there. It helps but didn't solve the issue by any means. I just re-read your post, you're looking for the u-joint bolts on the drive line? Can you even get a torque wrench on them?
  25. abominable z71
    Once you own a vibrator you know exactly what to look for. Do you think if you never had ridden in one of the shakers before and were not super in tune with the symptoms you would have noticed the vibe in the 17?
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