ncorry

My dealer (Everett GMC in Benotn, AR) got me for $913 for replacing the condenser. Did give me a 17 Z71 with 1100 miles to play with for 24 hours though. GM's customer interface chat did nothing for me. My truck is a '15 crew cab Z71 with 64K.

DOn't know about 35's, but I'm running 34's with a Rancho Quick lift (2" level- upfront only lifted) in 275/65-20 with no rubbing since I zip tied my wheel well liner back on the rear of the passenger front tire. I would guess that the 35s you are looking at are wider than the 10.8 wide tires I'm running.

Use a relay- I've had all my KC lights set up with a relay tied to the high beams. I can have high beams on with no KCs, and then flip the KC switch and have them all. When I hit my low beams, the KCs turn off automatically- the KCs can NOT be turned on without the High beams, but the high beams can be on without the KCs. Standard single pole, single throw switch and a cheap $5 12v relay from any Autozone.

The stock 275/55-20 tires are 32" tall and 10.8" wide. 275/60-20 tires are 33" tall and 10.8" wide. The ones I just had put on are 275/65-20 and are 34" tall and 10.8" wide. You can run the 33" tall 10.8" wide tires without a lift. The Rancho Quick Lifts I put on lifted the front end about 2" and allow me to run the 34" x 10.8" with very minimal rubbing- just on the wheel well liner. With a tire that is 12.5" wide, I'd think you'd be looking at different wheels and/or a spacer to move the wheels further out from the truck body. With a 12.5" wide tire, you should expect to lose maybe 2 to 3 mpgs from the increased wind they're pushing and increased rolling resistance. Kind of like how a racing 10 speed road bike has little skinny tires to make it easier to go faster than the same bike with mountain bike tires. Also interested in the cost on powder coating.

So far (200 miles), I'm loving the Cooper ATP 275/65-20 (34") tires. With the OEM 275/55-20 (32") , when I was backing up with wheels at full right lock, I'd get rubbing on the wheel well liner, so I still have it, but no rubbing at all unless at extreme right lock. I'm going to try to zip tie the corner of the liner back and if that doesn't get it done, I am not scared of scissors. I have the Rancho Quick Lift at all four corners. The Coopers look a hell of a lot meaner than the SRA's. Man the SRAs are just craptastic tires. Already had two flats with them in 7K. The Coppers are just barely noticeably louder, but nowhere close to mud tires' constant hum. I was worried that I'd lose some ride quality going to the 10 ply, but the extra 1" of sidewall height seems to cancel it out- I can't tell that they're any more rough/ stiff. The best part is that Discount Tire Direct jsut had a deal on eBay for $100 off $400 purchases, so I bought two sets of two tires and saved $200 and Cooper had a rebate going so I will be getting another $70 back from them. All in all, I'm out $758 for the tires and $80 to mount and balance. The installer did tell me ahead of time that mounting them would peel off some of the plastidip around the edge of the rims, so I will either peel it all off or re-dip, maybe in black this time.

Hoping you were telling the truth. UPS just dropped off a set of Cooper ATP in 275/65-20 that will be mounted this weekend. I have the Rancho Quicklift. With the Rancho QL (and even before), when I crank my wheel all the way to the right in reverse, the front passenger side 275/55-20 rubs a bit on the liner.

Please post some pics of this set up. I'm trying to decide between the 275/60 and 275/65-20 size.

X2. I've seen two Tundras done entirely in dip- one in a desert tan and one in olive drab. Both looked pretty damn good, at least in the pics. As for me, today I dipped my wheels in charcoal grey, debadged everything, and rain-xed my windshield (hey, it's something). With a clear satin top coat, it's pretty damn close to the factory plastic trim around wheel wells and air damn. Planning on dipping everything chrome on the front and back in same charcoal grey.

I took some advice off here and went with the Rancho QuickLift front replacements for my 15 Sierra Z71 Crew Cab 4x4, part number #RS999901- I got them off Amazon for $320 delivered. Before, the rear fender was 39.5" and the front was 36". After, the rear is 39" and the front is 38", and the front of the cab is 17 3/4", and the rear of the cab is 18 1/4". I got right at exactly 2" lift up front. I'm still playing with the settings on the dampers, but I installed them last night in 3 hours. I could've done it in about half that if I could've found my 15mm deep socket...... 5 bolts each side removed, and the long bolt on the sway bar loosened on each side and it pops right off. Ride is at least as good as the stock fronts. I am going to swap out the rears to RS9000XL in the near future. I sure like how she's sitting now. I also need t ofind the time to drop her off to get the fronts tinted....

I got tired of waiting on Bilstein to get production back up and ordered the Quick Lift front shocks from Rancho. Yeah, they were more than the 511's, but since the Ranchos come with a strut, I'll do the installation since I won't have to screw with a spring compressor. Local place quoted me $367 for the Bilstein 5100s or adjustable ProRunners installed and I got the Ranchos for $320 from Amazon.

Maybe check these out?? http://www.carr.com/steps/hoop-ii-steps.html

Did you tint the entire windshield or just the top 6 or 8 inches? Where I am, illegal to tint below 6 or 8 inches. And I think the "eyebrow" looks dumb.

Not mine, but I've done similar with foam and an electric fish filet knife. Other option is a hot wire gun.

I contacted ProCOmp and was told that the two settings on the front were 1) factory heighth and 2) 1.75" lift. I think I'm going to bite the bullet and order them. My local shop (4Wheel Parts) said they could get them ($189) and install them ($153) with no alignment, for a grand total of $366.72, including $17 in tax and $8 in supplies. Is that a decent enough deal? Not going to have them do an alignment since I'll have it done at Firestone and bite the bullet and get the lifetime alignment package.

Thanks for the heads up. Now hurry up and get teh fronts on!!! Please make sure to measure the before and after front wheel well height.

I've got a total of 130 miles on this truck (15 CC Sierra 4x4), so I'm not too unhappy with the stock z71 Ranchos, at least not yet. Trying to decide on a 2 to 2 1/2" lift/ leveling or ride-height adjustable shocks on the front. The ProComp for the front #ZX2108 has 2 settings, with the top one at 2" lift, and has a diameter of 51mm and is in stock at several places for $105 each. The Bilstein 5100 for the front #24-238304) have 3 (maybe 4) settings, with the highest providing about 1.9" of lift, and has a diameter of 46mm, and is backordered nationwide, but Summit lists them at $90/ each. Anyone have the ProCOmps actually installed and care to give a review? I've had several sets of the 5100s on a couple of Tundras, and the members on here basically all give them a thumbs up, so I wouldn't hesitate to buy them.

Maybe check the teen driver section in the menu? I know you can limit the radio volume on a key by key basis. That's all I got.

# 4 at this link: http://www.oemautopartsandaccessories.com/catalog/parts/view/n/center-bezel-22825711/v/gmc-sierra-1500-2014/vtec/415495/pid/050697d818c5bed5/

I have a 2015 SLE without park assist, without power adjustment pedals, without lane departure, and with hill assist. I think I have the part identied as #8 on the schematic, part #23145161. I was wondering, if I wanted to do a real clean installation of some extra switches, if I got one of the housings that had all six switches (#23145212), could I wire up the switches for the lights to the three "extra" spots- adjustable pedals, park assist, lane departure? I know the little pictures wouldn't match, but to anyone that has had their switch housing out, is this doable?

Picked up a new 2015 Z71 GMC crew cab 4x4 today. Front measures 36 1/2, rear measures 39 1/2. At what point on a leveling kit would new UCAs and/or a diff drop be required? Looking at the Bilstein 5100s set at next to highest setting or a 2" spacer.

For the 5100s, the RC 2" kit, or both? To be clear, I'm only looking to raise the front up about 1.5" to 2.0", and planning on doing one or the other.

Brand new GMC Z71 waiting for me to pick up in about an hour. Want it leveled. I had 5100s in my last two Tundras, and the ride was so-so. What is the consensus- a 2" RC leveling kit or the 5100s on high setting?