650h1
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HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit
650h1 replied to MotoMedic's topic in Modifications & Accessories
So I bought a set of Kensun HIDs off Amazon (I know...), and hooked everything up. I did not run a wire or harness to the battery, and I will not be doing that (because it's bullshit). The issue is that the lights work perfect when the truck is off, but when I start the truck, the HIDs come on and warm up, then shut off and will not come back on... I don't have warning cancellers/capacitors, will they fix the issue? -
I have a leveling kit, and it did NOT fix my issue. FYI....
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Loved my tundra... Never should have traded it in. The 12mpg kind of sucked, but knowing what I know now, I'd gladly take that truck back... Shit I'd pay to have it back!
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Anyone try using spring clamps to balance their driveshaft and see if it improves their vibrations? I'm thinking of trying it...
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Test drove a couple Rams today... Would have bought one but I'm too upside down in my lease to even remotely make it work. This is a really depressing situation...
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I'm thinking that shims should fix the issue - we just need to know how to line the driveline up perfectly and get someone to test it.
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Anyone have any updates?
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Has anyone here actually spent some time working on their trucks to find the issue for the vibration? If you look at the leaf springs, GM put blocks in the rear of these trucks, I'm guessing which is why they have so much rake, and probably helps with payload. I had a Tacoma a couple years ago that I lifted, and used blocks in the rear end, but the blocks in that lift kit were angled, and they came with shims to further angle the rear axle up or down to keep the driveline in line. I know there were low speed vibes (10 or lower) with my Tacoma that were caused by the lift - the vibes were corrected by using a carrier bearing drop kit, to keep the 2 piece driveshaft straight, and not at a weird angle. Basically, I'm wondering if shims or a custom driveshaft would solve our issues. There are only so many things it could be, and I really like my truck BESIDES this frigging vibration. If I could fix it myself, I'd rather just drive out my lease instead of losing a shitload of money on trading it in, or having them mock me with their retarded buy back offers...
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The issue is that GM is selling thousands of trucks. Thousands. There are like what, 20 of us here actively participating that have an actual vibration NOT caused by the wheels or tires? GM or any business out there will take those odds every time. People don't come to forums because they have no issues with their cars, they come here to find solutions. Unfortunately for us, there aren't enough people out there pushing the issue for it to be a cost benefit to GM to put time into fixing these trucks. They don't care. They are still selling trucks, and flooding the market so our trade-in values aren't shit, and they could not care less. GM isn't stupid, they know lemon law is too much hassle for most, they know they'll win most of the time anyways, and by offering $3500 in trade allowance, most of the dubs who buy these piles of shit think they won and will trade in for another pile of shit in a different color. There are too many retards out there who are brand loyal to their sisters, cousins and GM in order to get any of this fixed, and all it does is **** us, who actually care...
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Surprised no one has been able to figure this out yet. How do you make a truck with an "un-fixable" shake? There should only be so many things that it could be...
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After it snowed I was able to get out and torque my U-bolts to 100 ft/lbs. Vibration is pretty much gone...
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So none of this worked for you? Wondering if you tried a set of 18s, if your issue would be gone. I've wondered that about my truck...
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Hopefully going to try this tonight when I get home from work - will update everyone after.
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what exactly did you do?
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So what is the verdict on tightening the U-bolts/adding another clamp to the leafs? IMO, the last thing anyone on this forum wants to do is start screwing with the pinion angles and the driveshaft; you'll never get it shimmed just right, and you'll make yourself crazy trying to do it. The pinion angles are also not going to affect high-speed vibration as much as they will affect the low speed shudders. To be honest, I think the fix for these trucks is going to be a custom made one-piece driveshaft, but I have a lease, and I'm not putting that much effort into it.
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Hmm, that's bull shit then. How many people have 20"+ wheels with the issue? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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It's honestly sad GM cant fix this issue. I'll bet it has something to do with the cylinder deactivation. Anyone who had the cylinder deactivation shut off in this thread?
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Had tires rotated with oil change Tuesday - still no vibrations. The AC Compressor was all ****ed up though, which would explain why my AC has been piss warm. I mentioned it to them, and they said they would look at it - I thought maybe it just wasn't charged or whatever. They put the dye through it, and it was leaking all over the place. New one on order, kind of odd for a truck with 8k miles.
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My other wheels had the ATs too...
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Haha I have to get one when I get those running boards off. Hopefully this afternoon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Have them try a new set of wheels and tires off a truck they have on the lot and see if that cures it.
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I do NOT have those tires... let's be clear about that. I have the bridgestone Dueler HL's. Also, there is no vibration in my steering wheel, seat, center console, pedals, or anything now... so I don't think rotating them would change anything.
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Both tire manufacturers are bridgestone. The chrome wheels had the Bridgestone Dueler AT's, while the black ones have the Bridgestone Dueler HL's. That picture isn't an exact picture of the wheels and tires they put on my truck, just a picture I found on the internet. Again, Im 99% certain that the issue with the other set of wheels and tires was the rear driver side tire that took 6.75 ounces of weight, and had a road force variation of 22, even after vectoring the wheel and tire to the correct position. The wheel indexed completely straight so I think it was just one bad tire, and they could've fixed the whole problem by just replacing that one tire. But the service manager didn't want to replace tires so...
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So this hasn't been fixed yet either? How does GM make trucks like this?
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In the end, new wheels and tires fixed the issue completely. The issue I was having was a vibration at 68mph+ in the seats, floor, pedals, and center console. I had the truck in a total of three times, the first two times they just kept road forcing the wheels and tires I had, and couldn't figure it out. This last time, I got the impression that it just sat, and they got tired of it, so just told me to pick out a new set, before they exchanged the truck. I guess I should note that I never had a vibration at 40, and never was my vibration in the steering wheel. One of the rear wheels and tire on the chrome ones came up with a road force variation at 22 in the best case, and took 6.75 ounces of weight. That probably was the issue all along, but the service manager didn't want to replace a tire... Whatever ha.
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